I will beg to differ, as I'm sure others here will as well. It allows for mounting a turbo when there is less space then usual, has no less lag than a traditional turbo setup as the whole system is pressurized and allows you to run higher pressures (because of temps) before you need to get an intercooler, saving money.
Just like with every turbo system, it's about what parts are used, not where the turbo is mounted. It's physics. No amount of misinformation can overcome physics.
Sorry dude, but remote mount setups decently suck. I think you should do some headwork, cams, and a megasquirt ems. You could get some nice power out of it N/A. Car will move very well.
You could run duals and have them x at the end. Then take the x out and put a y in when you get turbo, so it is one pipe into the turbo and then y it so that it goes back to the duals again. That wouldn't be to hard to do. I think any way lol
would you care to do a writeup on the gutting of the pump?
I will be doing this shortly, also what belt are you running for your alternator, usually the V6 guys have to use an AC delete pulley of some sort, but you seem to have bypassed that step.
Gutting the PS pump is pretty basic, once you take out the bolts that hold the pump together and you split the pump apart you can see the internal and how it works, there's no clips holding the internals in place just literally grab the internals out of the pump
And for the belt, thats the belt that was used in the probe i bought, i just re-used it on my ZE
would you care to do a writeup on the gutting of the pump?
I will be doing this shortly, also what belt are you running for your alternator, usually the V6 guys have to use an AC delete pulley of some sort, but you seem to have bypassed that step.
i haven't fully decided yet, i want duals but when i go to add a rear mount turbo i'll want single exhaust and i only want to do the exhaust once, with little modding for a turbo later on
^^^ yes, knock it apart, remove the vanes and cam ring (rotor too, if possible), plug up the outlet and return, pop it back together, and fill 3/4 way with ATF
Its funny you guys say that, i already gutted the pump before i took the above picture but just forgot to mention that part and i didn't think to plug the outlet and put some fluid in it so thanks for that tip Jim!!
^^^ yes, knock it apart, remove the vanes and cam ring (rotor too, if possible), plug up the outlet and return, pop it back together, and fill 3/4 way with ATF
1. This is awesome i cant wait to see it runing on youtube.
2. You should dedinately build a dead pulley for the steering pump, with no fluid runing through it, its gonna burn out and the belt wont turn the water pump. Just a suggestion
+1, I believe you can gut the internals so that it just spins.
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