AquaMutt build thread...

[blu121]

Thank you Fred!


Again, since I'm trying my best to document stuff for newbies interested in "the basic engine swap," those of you with more experience and better ideas and tips can add your comments as you wish!

Karl

Thanks Karl, as a newbie beginner preparing for a similar swap all the detail is really appreciated.

Cheers!

[Safety Guy]

Thank you Blu!

I've only done one engine swap before, and with Aqua here I'm finishing my third Aspire suspension/brake swap, so I'm fairly new myself.

I may get to start listing the engine swap "ingredients" tomorrow if I'm not too lazy. I made a paper list tonight. Stay tuned and feel free to ask questions.

Since you're in Australia, just be aware that there are some differences in parts and names between our cars, but a lot of it is almost the same.

Karl

[91blufestiva]

Nice work Karl! I can't wait until I'm able to put my b6t in!

[xaero_81]

I just wish I hadn't been so lazy and started earlier in the um...summer.

Karl

I have the same problem, either too hot or too busy in the summer.

[Safety Guy]

Blu said:

"Nice work Karl! I can't wait until I'm able to put my b6t in!"

I'm glad my B6 is simpler! (Next time...B8!)

Xaero, I'm just. LAZY. Although I too don't like sweating so much in the summer heat. If only I could order up sixty degree days when I really feel like wrenching.

Some day...heated garage! Maybe partially carpeted. With a Cappucino bar. And dancing girls!

Hmmm...might not get much work done.

Karl

[Safety Guy]

Time for an update. I was held up for about a week because I couldn't get my right side CV axle in. The left one went in easily. Today my Dad came over and I also posted a help thread and while someone responded, I went back out and succeeded! Here is the help thread, for those of you who have had (or are having) CV install troubles:

http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/showthread.php?t=33142

I'm heading back out to finish putting together my front end parts, but here is a pic for now:



It shows my brake booster line that I will probably improve with larger tubing. I used 5/16" brake/fuel line for this, but it seemed small (thus, the clamps on each end). I bought some 3/8" line and I'll see about using that instead. The brake booster hose you see here is just the Festiva BB hose cut and the far end (left side of photo) turned around and extended with the metal tubing.

Tomorrow is supposed to be flurries so I should be back then to update more, including the essential parts of a B6 swap.

Karl

[Safety Guy]

Okay, for all you engine swap newbies, time for:

B6 SWAP BASICS!

In the next few days I should be covering the stuff you need to do a B6 swap from the B3. I won't be saying much about the standard procedures unless I think it will help you complete the swap, so you need to have some experience wrenching on cars, even if it has been just changing oil, shocks, radiator, etc. Before my first Aspire suspension swap, I had only done the above stuff, so ripping off an entire undercarriage was SCARY! That was in 2002. I took it to the local brake shop for them to finish the bleeding, etc. Now I can do that myself.

My first B6 swap was in 2006 on my 1993GL ATX. I'll try to remember to say some things that will be different doing an automatic from the manual transaxle, but it has been awhile. Any questions, ask.

I might forget something, so those of you who have done this in your sleep can always add your wisdom, especially if you see a mistake! (I'll try not to make any.) Also, alternative ways of doing things are quite common, so feel free to share ideas!

As far as the order to do things goes, it can vary, so don't take my order as gospel. I tend to work on different things as I go, lose interest in one task, begin another, then go back. The more work experience you have on cars, the less this will concern you.

I think my biggest message is this: If you have the desire to do an engine swap, and you've at least changed out or repaired some major parts like radiators or head gaskets, you can do an engine swap. If I can do it, you can!

Some considerations:

SAFETY FIRST! Use jackstands and test wobble the car first before getting under it and yanking on things! Make sure it is stable. A guy who delivers papers at work had his van fall on him a few weeks ago and he's lucky to be alive! THIS DOES HAPPEN. Push the car in several directions to make sure it won't shift while you are underneath.

The right tools make all the difference! Having to use crap tools or using the wrong one will really be a pain. I use Craftsman for most of my important tools, with some other name brand tools from auto and hardware stores. Doing a major car job will probably have you going out once in a while to buy something you need, like a socket for the crank bolt or whatever (20 or 21mm, I can't recall off hand). For tools you will only be using rarely, Harbor Freight is a great place to shop. Okay, I'm addicted. Can't be helped!

Cheap tools can also be used to pick, pry, hammer, beat on, etc. without worry because they are cheaply replaced. Just don't rely upon them for important stuff that could hurt you when they break!

DISCLAIMER: My info here is from a relative "newbie Festiva mechanic." Proceed at your own risk! Nothing here is to be construed as "the last word" or "completely safe." Life is not safe! Neither is working on cars without being completely alert, knowing basic safety procedures, and PAYING ATTENTION. A mistake you make may not bite you until a year later as you drive on an interstate and your wheel comes off. Check, double check, and CHECK AGAIN. Especially if you're not sure. Especially if you are doing something "new." Take your time and be careful.

Hopefully I scared all the misfits off and convinced them to sleep in a rubber room with adult supervision! Ha! Okay, here's the bottom line: If you get killed it's yer own fault.

Enough on safety.

Next post I'll begin a list before I start posting pics, etc.

Karl

[Safety Guy]

My info here only covers the later model B6 as it comes from 1990 to 1994 Mazda 323s sold in the "Federal" U.S. "California" cars had the SOHC 16 valve engine, which I do not have experience with. Both my swaps were pulled from 1994 model cars. Also, due to engine crank nose improvements, my understanding is that going with 1992 and later engines should ensure you have the improved (larger) crank nose design, which is supposed to mean longer crank life. Thus, I prefer to use 1992 to 1994 B6 engines.

Note: These later B6s have different head designs from the earlier ones. While you could use Festiva intake and exhaust manifolds on the 1986 to 1989 B6s, you can't on the newer ones. Valve covers (VC), VC gaskets, and intake pipe routing are different. Telling them apart is easy: early engines had Festiva intake style piping going over the VC while later ones went to the driver's side.

Choose an engine that you can hear run, if possible. Also pull the VC and look at the color of the valvetrain underneath. A "golden" color is best, indicating the engine had regular oil changes and was probably taken care of. A darker color indicates fewer oil changes and potentially less care. Crud and small animal nests, crunchy bits of metal, glass and bones indicate severe neglect and should be avoided.

(Actually, on my first swap, I had to completely clean the intake parts due to several small nests made from grass and fuzz and who knows what that were inside the throttle body and somewhere else. I don't know if these were made by insects, birds or rodents, but uncapped openings of any sort may invite that sort of activity, so beware!)

STEP ONE: AUTO (ATX) OR MANUAL (MTX) 323 ENGINE?

This will affect the following:

-throttle position sensor (TPS) compatibility
-ECU compatibility


MTX 323 engines have the correct throttle position sensor, which has three pins in it. It will hook up directly to your stock three pin Festiva plug. ALL 1990 AND LATER FESTIVAS were FI and use three pin TPS plugs. All ATX and MTX Festivas have the same three pin TPS plugs.

ATX 323 engines have FOUR PIN throttle position sensors which work with their computer controlled 4 speed automatic transaxles. Therefore, you CAN'T hook up their TPS to the Festiva without modification. I found it was easier to get a MTX throttle body (with TPS on it) from a 1991 Protege for my first swap since my B6 was from an ATX 323, and MTX 323s are kinda rare around here while Protege DXs are many. Since the Protege B8 TB is 5mm larger diameter, I opened up my air plenum opening to better fit it, and of course used a B8 TB gasket to put it on. You could also use a BP TB, which is 10mm larger diameter. (Be aware that just putting on a larger TB may not give you much extra power without further "breathing" mods.)

This picture shows the MTX three pin plug that goes into the MTX B6 TB:



That plug in my hand comes off your Festiva's FI harness which you will be using for your later model B6 (covered later). It goes into the black plastic TPS receptor on the upper right part of the TB. (The TB is the silver aluminum thingie with the large opening. For future reference, the black plastic round thingie with the plug facing to the right is the Idle Air Control (IAC), which you will be learning about later. For now, take a moment and learn these terms and parts, which will make you happy later on.)


If you got your engine out of an MTX 323, be sure and grab the two plug ECU. It is located just to the right of the center console under the dash and is easier to remove than a Festiva ECU. (I find that a flex attachment on a 1/4" socket wrench helps a lot to get to one or two of the nuts/bolts holding it on the 323.)

If you are getting your B6 out of an ATX 323, you CAN'T use the ECU. It has three plugs and is meant to work with the computer controlled 323 four speed automatic. Festivas have an older style three speed auto transaxle which has NO ADDITIONAL COMPUTER CONTROL. You will thus need to obtain an MTX 323 ECU from another source. You can find them on ebay sometimes. Since they seem to be a bit high priced to me, it would be best to keep your eyes out for an MTX 323 if you plan on a B6 swap and pull one when you see it! That's right, even before you buy your engine!! Why? Because, at least in my part of the country, MTX 323s in 'yards are rather rare. I have seen twice as many ATXs. If you wind up not needing your MTX ECU, you can always sell it on ebay or here at FF.COM. Someone will need one for their swap. Also, in case you pull a dud MTX ECU from a 323, you'll have "backup." You'll know this because you can run your newly installed B6 on your KNOWN GOOD B3 ECU temporarily so when you install your B6 ECU and it "don't work" you'll know why, and you'll know what to do.

That's right, your B6 will run fine on a stock Festiva B3 engine computer. It won't run at it's best in terms of either power or fuel economy, but it won't hurt it. I ran my first swap on my stock B3 computer for several months before I got unlazy enough to contort my body and twist my awkward hands up under my #$%^&* tight #$%^&* practically impossible to get up into left side underdash area and got the job done.

[Safety Guy]

My post timed out before I could add this: If you have a 1989 ATX Festiva, you are on your own. That year was the first for FI and it is said that it is different in many ways. Different as in "confusing." I have not examined one so I can't help you.

Now on to ECU ID:

This pic shows what you want:



This is a two plug Mazda 323 ECU. It is labelled B61K and may have an additional letter after it. I own two of these, with "E" and "F" endings. I have no idea what the endings mean, but if you look on one side of your B6 head, "61K" is stamped into the aluminum.

Now for a group shot clearly showing the "plugs," or rather, the plug receptacles:



From left to right we have an ATX 323 three plugger (B69F); an MTX 323 two plugger (B61K); and a Festiva B3 two plugger (B376). Note the attachments on the ATX unit. These are just 323 specific brackets and you will not need these for your install. (I think the little yellow and black box is a fuel pump relay.)

NOTE: I'm including the ATX three plugger only to show you the WRONG ECU! You CAN'T use this ECU!! You need a TWO PLUG ECU for your B6 swap. Do not waste your money on an ATX 323 ECU, as I did. Except, having one, I can show you what they look like.

A group shot:



In the back is the wrong one for the ATX 323.
In the middle are two B6 SOHC MTX ECUs, the type you need. One has the add ons which I haven't yet removed and the other is stripped, ready for install. They differ only in the suffix, and I can't tell you if that matters, but probably not. (Maybe someone here knows and can tell us.)
In the foreground is the stock B3 unit.

(BTW, if I'm right and that little yellow/black add on box is a fuel pump relay, I think you can use it as a spare for a Festiva. Check parts listings to confirm.)

One more pic of the other end of the ECUs:



Note that the two B6 ECUs have a label on the backside, so if the main top label is missing or illegible, check around the box. As you can tell from my pics, the labels may not be in the greatest shape due to age, etc. So to recap:

Examine the pictures and learn what the plug receptacles look like.
Look all over the ECU for identifying info labels.
YOU WILL NEED A TWO PLUG ECU WITH "B61K" ON IT. There may be a suffix letter.

All 1990 and later Festivas have two plug ECUs, and your B6 ECU better have two plugs as well. It will look a lot like your stock B3 unit. It may have add ons, which you will take off before you install it in your car.

I think this is all for today. Ask any questions and I should be back tomorrow for another installment of...

B6 Swap for Beginners!

Karl

PS: One more sleeping AquaMutt picture. Waiting for my lazy butt to resume work:

[Safety Guy]

Oops!

I may not have been clear about sourcing an alternate TB with TPS from a Protege or Escort GT, so here goes:

Any TB you get should be from a manual transaxle car.
It should have a 3 pin TPS receptacle. (A 4 pin will not work.)
Choose from the following cars:

-5 speed 323 (B6)
-5 speed Protege DX (B8 engine, 5mm larger diameter TB than a 323)
-5 speed Protege LX or Escort GT (BP engine, 10mm larger diameter TB than a B6)

If you use a larger diameter TB, you will probably want to open up your 323 B6 air plenum hole where it mounts, and use the appropriately larger gasket. If you have multiple TB gaskets for different B series engines, don't mix them up like I almost did. If they do get mixed up, go to an online parts store and look up the part numbers so you can label yours for future reference.

There may be other cars that will work (Kia Sephia, MX-3, etc.), but you're on your own there. I would stick to the Mazdas I have listed.

Karl

[JPT]

I haven't actually looked at one in close up detail, but everything I've read says that the MX-3 B6D (DOHC) throttle body won't fit. It has a unique bolt pattern.

The B6ME throttle body will bolt up. It's B8 sized at 55mm.

[Safety Guy]

Thanks JPT! Good info to know.

Karl

[SuperDaveGulvak]

Just went to Harbor Freight & picked up an o-ring assortment to fix my sloppy lock set. Worked like a charm & 30 seconds later no wiggly woo on my gas door lock set Thanks for the tip Karl & looks like Mutt is coming along well :thumbleft:

[Safety Guy]

Great! Glad I could be of help, especially on something so quick and simple. That's why I'm trying to post as much stuff I think will be helpful here. Trying to give back after I've reaped so much help myself, and continue to reap it!

Karl

[Safety Guy]

STEP TWO: FINISH PREPPING YOUR B6

Here are the parts that I swap onto the B6 engine from the Festiva B3:

-FI harness (eliminates some rewiring you'd have to do)
-water bypass pipe (allows use of stock Festiva lower radiator hose and fits better)
-water temperature sender (B6 has spade connection; swapped for B3 bullet connector)
-thermostat housing (allows you to use stock upper radiator hose & fits better)
-flywheel (or ATX flexplate) allows B6 to mate with Festiva stock transaxle

I also put on a new water pump (WP), timing belt, and of course, spark plugs, plug wires, thermostat, oil filter, PCV valve, maybe some new hoses, etc. See what is getting old in your engine compartment and do what you gotta do.

Some pictures:



Above we have the B3 FI harness on top and the B6 harness at bottom. You will simply replace the B6 harness with the B3 one. The IAC valve plug is on the B6 harness, which is not needed, since you'll be using the Festiva IAC valve wire which is on the main engine harness. I think I showed the splice earlier right after I showed my B6 install in Aqua's body. How to splice? Simple: connect thick wire with thick, and thin with thin. There are only the two wires. Easy peasy!

Here's a top o' the engine pic showing my B3 FI harness installed:



I don't think I need to show any of the other pictures, since I had plenty of my B6 before install. If someone needs a better pic of something or if you have problems understanding any of these steps, ASK!