M3NTALS B6T Build Thread pics always

[kumalaba]

looks great mark!

[M3NTAL]

Boosting again and it feels so good!

[jawbraeka]

Thanks for that..

sent from the depths of hell.

[jason_]

Joking.

Spin bolts back into everything. Cuts back unnecessary containers. And obviously you'll know where they go.

Paint marker everything, direction, rotation, number, dots, dashes, get creative.

Parts washing fluid. Or compressed air and a spray wand that sucks solvents, and then use gasoline. Don't smoke.

Handful of small boxes. Lots of newspaper. Sturdy 4x8. I'm a room pig.

Drill/paddle holes in 2x4 for valve rack, drill a hole to mark front. Any special tools heated/Bent/modified to make the job easier, spray paint and put it in the poor man's custom wrench drawer for future use.

Beer. I buy 18pks. 12s not enough to hold back my angry bolt anger.

Sent from my rooted HTC Supersonic using Tapatalk 2 Pro

[jason_]

Seeing how you've torn down a block, for those that haven't done it before, what pointers have you got for anyone attempting this feat and any things you may want to avoid?

sent from the depths of hell.

I've rebuilt many engines.

Don't do it.

Sent from my rooted HTC Supersonic using Tapatalk 2 Pro

[jawbraeka]

Seeing how you've torn down a block, for those that haven't done it before, what pointers have you got for anyone attempting this feat and any things you may want to avoid?

sent from the depths of hell.

[TominMO]

I have had my b6t apart and back together a bunch of times, always use cometic gaskets and ARP studs at 80 lbs. I recheck after the first 2 heat cycles, but they have never loosened. The only engines that I have seen loosen were air cooled Porsches, but those engines expand a lot. It's always recommended to set the studs hand tight because they can crack the block if bottomed out. On the B6 with a stock uncut head and block you can't even tighten them all the way or you wont have full thread contact on the nuts. Bottoming them out doesn't make the assembly stronger, it just binds things up which doesn't allow for proper expansion and contraction of the individual parts under heat variations. The head bolt holes are already a weak link in the block, and the bottom of these holes is a known stress riser, especially on inline engines. If you've ever seen a 4 cylinder block snap in two, the crack usually starts at the bottom of the head bolt holes or the top of the main bolt holes (same type of situation).

Thanks for explaining this, and so well.

[Advancedynamix]

Some have crush rings and some have copper sealing rings, depending on the year and head design. On our race engines we would cut o-ring groves in the cylinders and heads and run Ni-Resist rings.

[defprun]

Those old aircooled porsches didnt have head gaskets did they? I suppose if they were built, they would. One day I will build one. Theres a guy around my place who has an aircooled vw sandrail thats street legal. Sounds amazing...

[M3NTAL]

It's no joke it was 75% throttle

[skimsucka]

Knew it was that truck...

[M3NTAL]

Skimsucka just got beat by the twin turbo duramax lol

[Advancedynamix]

I have had my b6t apart and back together a bunch of times, always use cometic gaskets and ARP studs at 80 lbs. I recheck after the first 2 heat cycles, but they have never loosened. The only engines that I have seen loosen were air cooled Porsches, but those engines expand a lot. It's always recommended to set the studs hand tight because they can crack the block if bottomed out. On the B6 with a stock uncut head and block you can't even tighten them all the way or you wont have full thread contact on the nuts. Bottoming them out doesn't make the assembly stronger, it just binds things up which doesn't allow for proper expansion and contraction of the individual parts under heat variations. The head bolt holes are already a weak link in the block, and the bottom of these holes is a known stress riser, especially on inline engines. If you've ever seen a 4 cylinder block snap in two, the crack usually starts at the bottom of the head bolt holes or the top of the main bolt holes (same type of situation).

[Hot_Wheels]

Chevk miata turbo on this topic, yes the studs are hand tight , there is some controversy over the suggested torque by arp, even a case where a head craked due to recomended torque.

[DON SVO]

Re-torque? Never had to re torque studs in the past.

Their "hand tight" stud recommendation always makes me nervous, I'll go 10lbs on the studs before dropping the head on. This is a response from ARP that many people have gotten:

"Yes it's recommended that you re-torque after it's been run up to operating temp and let cool completely down."