My Build Thread

[kellen302]

Got my Geo Metro wheels mounted (finally) A tip to all red Festy owners, white metro rims look super snazzy!

[Movin]

What, all that chatter and no pics ? lol
Fluffy has had mustang II wheels for years with stock lug bolts and no issues.
When I got her I didn't change what was working good.
That tool sounds like the end all answer to stuck axles, shoot if you throw out that
part number each time that comes up all these 7 page stuck axle things will go away and
the site server can save some money!!

[kellen302]

Wheels

The magic tool, I'm leaving it in as an axle plug so the gears don't fall.
OTC part no. 7140 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/otc-7140

[kellen302]

Did a light degreasing of the BP, didn't feel like really scrubbing at it so I just sprayed it with some foaming stuff and hosed it off. At this point I will still have my job for the summer so the engine swap will have to go quick, I have the measurements for the bolt spacing on the front mount where the mount will attach to the trans. case but I would still love a couple measurements on the front mount if anybody has them! Also that rear mount that zoom zoom did with the two plates sort of sandwiching part of the case looks easy to do, (I believe he just used the rubber donut from the festy/aspire to join it with the crossmember) but once again, or the one that Eurotiva had some pics of with the BP donor rear mount and a piece of 2x2 tubing looks good (seeing as that design pretty much has all the dimensions built in.)
Anybody have suggestions on which one is better or easier to do?

[kellen302]

Alrighty, so I did a poor man's CAD illustration of the dimensions I'd like to get from somebody, if at all possible. I won't have time to work on the car for the next week or so as I graduate on the 15th and family's coming to town. http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/...pse2c56b88.png

[zoom zoom]

it will end up pointing toward the front of the car instead of upward! Good luck, I used a piece of cardboard and made a template of the tranny, then dropped the tranny in place and figured up the length with the cardboard, marked and started cutting the metal!

[kellen302]

Which part ends up pointing to the front? the angle iron? My last resort is with the cardboard, but I'll do that if I have to because I'm trying to keep downtime minimized and the gravel hill that I'm working on makes shoving the engine around a little challenging.

Thanks

[kellen302]

Alrighty, I bought fastivab6tg5mr's mount setup. So I'll begin the teardown of the festiva when I get back from vacation in 2 weeks. I do want to order the axles before I leave, and it looks like for a Kia Rio pass. axle, 2 seals and a Capri Drivers' side axle, it will all cost about 150$ shipped to my door, which kind of sucks. Anybody have any cheaper sources? I checked a couple other sources and this was about the cheapest I could find.

[kellen302]

Back from Europe, festiva engine is out, parts are being switched over. Gotta get the swap done before Friday evening. Transmissions are the work of Satan, does anybody have any tips on getting the clutch fork out (I have a new modified one from fastiva that needs to go in) I can't for the life of me get this cursed thing out. Also if anybody on here reads this and remembers if there is any necessary grinding on the BP when using a G25MR and no int. shaft?
Also, will the BP drive without the 4th disty wire temporarily?

[kellen302]

No worries on the wires, found out how to get the clutch fork out but I won't if I can avoid it. In other news the axle seal surface on the G trans is a little dented from some of my previous axle removal attempts. Is it worth it to try and file it out or will that just make things worse?

[kellen302]

Alrighty, today while trying to put the crossmember in, I possibly cross-threaded one of the holes and found that it won't work with a normal Festiva sway bar, YAY!!! Looks like one of the smaller local yards might have an assfire or two, I'll call tomorrow. Today has been so gosh darn productive I can hardly contain myself... In the interest of time I won't be replacing the clutch fork, but if I remember correctly the PO said the clutch that he had put in the G25Mr recently was just a normal replacement, not a heavy race clutch. So I hopefully won't explode the clutch cable anytime soon.

[kellen302]

Welp, we tried to get it in again today (This is like the third try) And we got the pass. side mount attached in the hope that it would make things easier. It's very close, now the driver's side frame rail is hanging on the 5th gear cover (That is now a little dented, hopefully it doesn't chew up the internals,) So the whole shebang will probably have to be pulled out all the way so we can really beat on the frame to make things clear enough. This is really starting to piss me off.

[zoom zoom]

Stock clutch should hold up fine for a stock engine!! Maybe...Haha depends on your feets!

If you take it apart I'd check the torque on the flywheel/pressure plate and the alignment of the throwout bearing, they are really easy but also easy to not put in right. Don't sweat it you'll be alright.

Did you ever see the pics of my aspire mount? The holes need reamed out alot, and you'll want a 10lb sledge to really beat the snot out of the driver side frame rail. It's gotta go like an inch or better...well it did for me in my aspire anyway. Cut those metal plates so they stick straight out from the backside of the tranny, bolt one on, drop it in, then stick a permanent marker through the mounts bolt hole so you'll know where to poke the rear bolt hole..on both pieces. You want it as low as you can get it and you really need to have your axles in place to be sure they work where the tranny is sitting. It was a long day for me, and it could have easily taken more than one day...I took a spring off a strut, mounted the strut, and used a jack to fully compress the strut to check for binding, axles are shortest when they're fully compressed.

[kellen302]

Thanks for the tips zoom, however at this point I'm using the mount and crossmember I bought from FastivaB6tG5mr to help eliminate a variable or two. At this point we're just making it all fit.

[bobbyspider]

Stock clutch should hold up fine for a stock engine!! Maybe...Haha depends on your feets!

If you take it apart I'd check the torque on the flywheel/pressure plate and the alignment of the throwout bearing, they are really easy but also easy to not put in right. Don't sweat it you'll be alright.

Did you ever see the pics of my aspire mount? The holes need reamed out alot, and you'll want a 10lb sledge to really beat the snot out of the driver side frame rail. It's gotta go like an inch or better...well it did for me in my aspire anyway. Cut those metal plates so they stick straight out from the backside of the tranny, bolt one on, drop it in, then stick a permanent marker through the mounts bolt hole so you'll know where to poke the rear bolt hole..on both pieces. You want it as low as you can get it and you really need to have your axles in place to be sure they work where the tranny is sitting. It was a long day for me, and it could have easily taken more than one day...I took a spring off a strut, mounted the strut, and used a jack to fully compress the strut to check for binding, axles are shortest when they're fully compressed.

im on my 3rd stock clutch in my b6/cammed car but arty says that's because I don't drive like a sane person