Project Procrastination....a B6 swap

[blkfordsedan]

Finished the Intake manifold mods this weekend. The final finish on the runners and inside the plenum was provided by a 120 grit flapper wheel, followed by a 220 grit "buffer" pad. Almost mirror finish, although it's hard to tell by the pics. The entire runners on both upper and low manifold sections are finished, as well as areas inside of the plenum and right above the runner openings. I did the best I could on the back wall and floor of the plenum...it was pretty hard to access all the areas.




The ports were gasket matched between the two intake halves and the lower intake was gasket matched to the head as well.



I took some extra time to "restore" the plaque on top of the intake. It was pretty scratched up and pitted, and initially I was just going to remove it. I used some Maguires Ultimate Compound to polish it, then I used some black touch-up paint (left over from my Taurus) to touch up all the pitting marks and scratches. Finally, I masked it off and sprayed it with several coats of Duplicolor 500* Clear engine enamel to give it some shine and protect it. It came out really nice!


This week I should be able to start assembly of the short block...Yea!! :p

[blkfordsedan]

Started the shortblock assembly this week. I got the block scrubbed squeaky-clean using Simple Green and brass bore brushes to thoroughly clean out the oil passages. Then I got the block painted with several coats of VHT Ford Blue and installed the new brass freeze plugs. Before I installed the crank, I needed to address the wear on the front and rear seal journals. The front seal journal was grooved pretty good from the old seal, but that's an easy fix with a Speedi-Sleeve (or any brand shaft repair sleeve). The difficult part is being able to install the sleeve over the end of the crank snout. You need to find something hollow (pipe, tube, socket, etc.) that's the perfect inside diameter to just slip over the sleeve and long enough to be able to reach the journal over the end of the crank.


I tried all the deep sockets I had, and everything I could find (even a jack handle), but nothing would fit. I was just about to make a trip to the Hardware store to try and find a piece of PVC pipe I could ream out with my Dremel...........when I saw the wife's Eureka vacuum cleaner sitting in the closet. Then I noticed the hose extension tube attachment hanging on the side. Hmmmm..............


Well, look at that! Nice, heavy, thick wall......looks like you could smack it with a hammer. And the perfect size!


What the wife doesn't know won't hurt her....


Now, remove the installation flange, and PERFECT!!!


After several test fits and double checking the main oil clearance, I began the engine assembly. The clearance on the first 4 mains is just under .003". The #5 main is a little tighter at ~.0025". If I had the crank ground, all the mains would be the same, but I just had it polished. Several of the mains had a fair amount of wear, but they were able to polish it out. I wanted to be a little on the "loose" side of the normal range for a performance build, so this is about right. After I got the main caps torqued, I was very happy with the way it feels. I can spin the bare crank with two fingers, and it will continue to spin on it's own for about one full revolution. I checked the crank end play, which came out at .006". Right in the middle of the spec range.


Tonight I will begin installing the pistons/rods, oil pump, pan, etc.. I should be able to have the long block assembled by this weekend.

[blkfordsedan]

Progress is slow, but steady. I got the short block assembled, after a slight confusion about the rings. I couldn't see any markings or bevels on the DNJ (Rock Auto) rings to tell which side goes "up". Finally called DNJ and got it sorted out.....all I needed was a better set of eyes, LOL.

The rod bearing clearance checked out at around .0015", so I'm pretty happy so far. After re-assembling the oil pump and squirting some oil in it, I hung it up on the pegboard for about a week. When it was time to install it, I noticed some oil had seeped out from between the cover and case. I took it apart again and found some Loctite had squished out around the bolt holes and was between the cover and case. I cleaned it all up again and re-assembled (without Loctite this time), then hung it back up.

Here are a few pics. The head is not bolted down because I messed up a valve seal when I assembled the head. As soon as I get (1) new valve seal, I can install the last valve and get the motor completely assembled.

[TheresGabe]

Looking good!

[eurotiva]

Keep it up, looks great and i bet it will run great too.

[blkfordsedan]

Thanks guys! At this point, I'll just be happy if it runs and don't have to pull it apart again, LOL. I have had a lot of "small" issues thus far......it just hasn't gone together as easily as I would like. I have this feeling that I'll have a lot of "bugs" to get worked out. That's to be expected, but I'm getting too old (and broke) to mess with this stuff all the time. I just want to put it back in service as a DD, so I can return the Mustang to "toy" status. Then again, I do have nice '62 Galaxie project that needs revived..

[drddan]

First time I saw your VC! Looks GREAT!
You mentioned it my swap thread, but I never saw it til now.

Awesome! We have matching VC's :p

[blkfordsedan]

First time I saw your VC! Looks GREAT!
You mentioned it my swap thread, but I never saw it til now.

Awesome! We have matching VC's :p

LOL, I figured you'd notice it. Like you said, it's the old school look. Same reason I painted the block original Ford Blue. I used VHT "Wrinkle Finish" paint on the VC, then polished the fins with my Dremel. It took 4 days to dry completely, but it looks factory. Wait until you see it with the intake installed. The VC matches the "1.6 INJECTION" plaque......it looks sweeet :p.

[festyfreak39]

all that port and polishing, should have done this with a DOHC head! would have made so much power!

[blkfordsedan]

all that port and polishing, should have done this with a DOHC head! would have made so much power!

Yeah, but I think this SOHC B6 will be perfect for a DD. I already had the FMS cam and I wanted to put it to use anyway. I also like the idea of the "bolt-in" swap. Plus, if I put a factory VC on it and pull the "1.6" plaque off the top of the intake, it will look like a factory stock B3....which would be cool. Honestly, I think between the head/intake port work, cam and exhaust mods, this SOHC should make as much peak power as a bone stock B6D but with better low-mid RPM torque. Should make for a fun & economical street car. Someday, I hope to find another Festy to drop this B6 motor in, then I want to start on a B6T or BP and G-series swap.

[festyfreak39]

Yeah, but I think this SOHC B6 will be perfect for a DD. I already had the FMS cam and I wanted to put it to use anyway. I also like the idea of the "bolt-in" swap. Plus, if I put a factory VC on it and pull the "1.6" plaque off the top of the intake, it will look like a factory stock B3....which would be cool. Honestly, I think between the head/intake port work, cam and exhaust mods, this SOHC should make as much peak power as a bone stock B6D but with better low-mid RPM torque. Should make for a fun & economical street car. Someday, I hope to find another Festy to drop this B6 motor in, then I want to start on a B6T or BP and G-series swap.

Or turbro charge it? aspire manifold, t25 and a 240sx turbo manifold, that thing would make some serious power! and be reliable. its just sad to see a pretty well crafted motor stay n/a

[blkfordsedan]

LOL, I've thought of that many times. Once I get it running (and if proves dependable), I may try to source some turbo parts. I don't know much about turbocharging, so I'm a little apprehensive. I would probably want to upgrade to an F-series as well.

[Aaronbrook37]

LOL, I've thought of that many times. Once I get it running (and if proves dependable), I may try to source some turbo parts. I don't know much about turbocharging, so I'm a little apprehensive. I would probably want to upgrade to an F-series as well.

If you aren't an overly aggressive driver, the E-series does just fine because of two things mainly. First off, the incredibly low gearing. Second off, the fact that typically there's a new clutch and or a Suzuki Swift swap in the works when you turbo a car for the E-series. I never burn out or do severely hard pulls from a stop, and my E-series is happy as a clam to be honest. I'm pushing 8psi out of my B6T and I have no apprehensions about going higher because I'm on a 6-puck and my right foot is light enough.

[blkfordsedan]

I never burn out or do severely hard pulls from a stop, and my E-series is happy as a clam to be honest.

To be honest, I never do that kind of stuff either.........but it has more to do with how I was raised, LOL. My Dad would always over-engineer everything he built, which rubbed off on me. Any car I have ever built has always been designed to withstand maximum abuse and not break. Clutches, transmissions, rearends, etc., were always replaced with the most "heavy duty" units available. I have always sought out such parts (like steel cranks, Mexican and 4-bolt main blocks, Dana 60 front axles, etc.) for use in applications where they aren't even neccessary.....just because. The idea of having a transmission that will break under hard use would literally keep me awake at night. I have to know that everything will withstand any abuse I give it....even if I never do. It's somewhat of a personality flaw, but also stems from my occupation and Engineering practices.:p

[festyfreak39]

If you aren't an overly aggressive driver, the E-series does just fine because of two things mainly. First off, the incredibly low gearing. Second off, the fact that typically there's a new clutch and or a Suzuki Swift swap in the works when you turbo a car for the E-series. I never burn out or do severely hard pulls from a stop, and my E-series is happy as a clam to be honest. I'm pushing 8psi out of my B6T and I have no apprehensions about going higher because I'm on a 6-puck and my right foot is light enough.

Amen, im still rocking a festy trans in my b6T. That thing wont break, i dont know if its just a really good trans or its the way you drive it.