My last engine swap build thread, FANTASTIVA

[Damkid]

^^or just get a smaller belt so it clears the frame rail

[freshtiva]

^^or just get a smaller belt so it clears the frame rail

Thats part of plan B. Somehow Ive got to get the belt on the pulley before I mount the alt. No room to slip it on after its mounted. Crazy !

[Damkid]

I remember when I did my BP swap I had plenty of room for the alt..... My guess is that it's just how you have it mounted, have you thought about modifying your mounts to tilt the engine more forward to give more alt clearance?

[nonamekid]

Thats part of plan B. Somehow Ive got to get the belt on the pulley before I mount the alt. No room to slip it on after its mounted. Crazy !

Mine is the same way. I take the water pump pulley off to change my belt.

[KingFish]

Take a large pick hook, put the belt across the c/p and alt, using the hook to leverage the belt onto the w/p, then bump the starter. Does that make sense?

[eurotiva]

I have to undo the passenger mount and lift up some

[freshtiva]

2) Wheels studs are sweet. There's nothing like tossing a light weight wheel/tire combo on there, have it stay, and center itself. Studs are cheap and it takes about 20 minutes for the conversion when the hubs and drums are off the car.

Got these in the mail today



Should I put some lock tite on them or just crank them down. I cant get to much cranking power with an hex wrench.



Lower alt bolt access

[freshtiva]

have you thought about modifying your mounts to tilt the engine more forward to give more alt clearance?

Im not doing that again. Besides, now the clearance problem is between the upper mount and the alt. That wont change by tilting the engine forward. It would help frame rail clearance. Im going to have to shorten my spacers on the top mount or grind off parts of the mount. That or remove part of the alt housing.

Mine is the same way. I take the water pump pulley off to change my belt.

I tried that and the pulley will almost go back on... pulled real hard....just shy a pubic hair of working .....

Take a large pick hook, put the belt across the c/p and alt, using the hook to leverage the belt onto the w/p, then bump the starter. Does that make sense?

You have to have the belt in the pulley groove to even stand a chance. Youd damage a pulley trying to pry in on, just to tight.

[freshtiva]

Well that was the single hardest mechanical task I've ever performed. That was a nightmare but its on and I have maybe 3/16" clearance all around. I hope that belt lasts a looooong time. I think I could even tighten it at least one time. Id rather change a timing belt then do that again.

[MONSOON]

Thanks buddy !!! Where you been ???

Around. Always around, but usually hiding.

[bhazard]

Yeah...the alternator is a PITA with a BP. Nuff said.

[drddan]

Well that was the single hardest mechanical task I've ever performed. That was a nightmare but its on and I have maybe 3/16" clearance all around. I hope that belt lasts a looooong time. I think I could even tighten it at least one time. Id rather change a timing belt then do that again.

That must've been, one hard to put on belt, to wish that! :p

[BigElCat]

Blue lock-tite on the studs!

Lookin' good.

I'll toss in a pic of my remote oil filter, although I don't know where you'd mount on Fantastiva. I have a hole where my battery used to be.

[BigElCat]

Just a thought I had when I saw how close the engine compartment was getting.

In the summer, I run an aluminum heat sink around the filter. In the winter, I use a thermal wrap to help the oil heat up quicker. I realize you have a remote cooler, but a remote filter could be used too, just to make it easier at oil change time (?)

I could start a thread about the Sammy, if anyone is interested.

[freshtiva]

Nice, the Samurai looks like it would be useful around the ranch. Got out my 12"......fan and installed today, perfect fit !! Starting to get things hooked up.