Yeah still back and forth on boost... kinda thinking maybe nitrous in the future because you only use it when you need or want it. Asked matt about it and he said would just have to keep it to only a 50hp shot
I'd prefer a turbo, once it's installed and running, it could only cost you extra gas IF you floor it where as once a nitrous bottle is empty, you gotta pay to refill it
Yeah thats where im back and forth... its just if you have a turbo its hard not to use it, so you end up eating mpg. With nitrous its not too expensive to fill and with only a 50 shot it should last a while and only would use it when really need it (like when a built sti wants to race and you know you cant beat him without the nitrous)
I know that ultimately turbo is better. just harder to not be in it all the time. Plus living in colorado with the snow it sucks having the turbo kick in cuz then you have no traction.
Im just teasing you...Take your time and triple check everything. Sounds like you're doing good. I really want to swap out the FMS cam in my B6 for Matt's roller grind like yours. Unfortunately, it requires aftermarket valves with longer stems and the valve guides to be cut down due to the smaller base circle and higher lift. I really don't want to pull my head and spend the added money just to accommodate it.
The reason I haven't worried about the reduction of base circle on my cams is because with mechanical valve train, the lash can be adjusted out with rocker adjustment & on hydraulic it can be accommodated with shims between the lash adjuster & rocker body. With the roller cam, because of the aggressive nature of the lobe profile, a large amount of material had to be removed from the base circle to be able to achieve the desired profile for drumnerd33. Since his car is going to be a driver, I wanted a profile that would produce huge amounts of power in the 2500-4500 RPM range & not so concerned with all top end. It's important to have a cam that allows your cylinder head to operate at its highest flow potential ( his cam has .514 lift which is huge for the B3 ). All but 1 cam that I have sold has been ran with my complete race ported head, which comes with custom valves anyway, so it's not a big deal to ad tip length to accommodate valve lash. But if there is any of you who want a direct replacement race cam with the OE base circle ( 1.221 ) I can weld the lobes so that when it is ground it will be reduced down to stock size. This will also allow for unlimited cam profile in terms of lift/duration as I won't have to work within what will fit on a stock lobe. This will make shims & longer valves unnecessary. Welding the lobes will add cost to the cam but still be much cheaper than buying my custom valves, not to mention a head set & machine work.
If I recall, your stage I cam is compatable with stock valvetrain and your stage II cam should be OK with either HLA shims or mechanical rockers. (And springs) Most likely, that would be the one I would go for....And I would switch to mechanical. If my motor wasn't already together and running, it would be different.
Not compatible with springs. Stock springs max out at around .390. In my opinion grinding a cam to only produce .010-.015 more lift than stock would make no sense.
So, to be clear, your stage 1 requires VS upgrade as well?
Now you have me worried about the stock springs. There are many of us running the FMS cam on stock springs. The lobe lift is .255", so that puts the valve lift at around .447". I never checked the springs, but no one has ever reported any issues in terms of valve float or coil bind, so I didn't worry about it. I was going to upgrade to a better VS in the future, but FMS had no clue about recommended spring pressures.
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