Lol nope cant say i did... but i forget my wheel bearing grease in my shed at my place(i dont have a garage im using my dads) so my buddy across the street got what he had and it was a nice synthetic wheel bearing grease...should add like 30 hp right?...lol
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My n/a super b3 build
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Weird. Looks just like the Anti-Seize I use. Just the screen, I guess.Any difference that makes no difference is no difference.
Old Blue- New Tricks
91 Festiva FSM PDF - Dropbox
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Well like i said this was a synthetic wheel bearing grease and it was black and kinda had a sparkle to it so i can see where you thought it looked like antisieze. My wheel bearing grease i have is the typical caramel looking but i forgot it at my apt and didnt want to go get it so my buddy brought his over.
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My n/a super b3 build
Just curious but any reason for sticking with stock brakes?Last edited by Damkid; 02-13-2013, 12:08 PM.
1988 323 Station Wagon - KLG4 swapped
1988 323 GT - B6T Powered
2008 Ford Escape - Rollover Survivor
1990 Festiva - First Ever Completed KLZE swap (SOLD)
If no one from the future stops you from doing it, how bad of a decision can it really be?
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Honestly i considered the capri upgrade but my stock brakes worked extrremely well... i never had an issue with stopping power, and i want to keep the bolt pattern i have, also when i was doing the brakes yesterday it looked like the rotors havent been changed in who knows how long they were out of spec for thickness and the wheel bearing grease was really crappy looking. so i washed eveything really good in the solvent tank and check the bearings and races and looked great so kept them but put new seals in and when i was doing the calipers the shafts with the rubber boot for the caliper to move were completely dry and almost couldnt get them to slide, had to use channel locks to get them out then regrease them real good so my brakes should work even better now. Another reason was before i started reading on this site alot and got the festy fever, i bought new rotors and semi metalic pads just never installed them and at this point couldnt return them so i decided to just stick with them for now and see how it does. There may still be a capri swap in my future considering i noticed my ball joint boot is all torn up and the control arm bushing is a little cracked so will need to replace the control arm anyway so may get aspires and do the swap but still watching and waiting for a capri to show up in the junk yard for the knuckles.
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Why? if my stock brakes were working so well the capri would be a huge improvement. If i do the aspire then i need new wheels and have to do the rear also... seems pointless to me, not saying its bad but if mine are working great why change it. Now if i could figure out a rear disc conversion i would do that to help in the rear plus do the capri but even that i may never do if everything is working great.
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Re: My n/a super b3 build
I've driven both setups. The huge Capri brakes in the front and tiny festy drums in the rear make for a very unbalanced setup. The aspire setup is perfectly balanced and you get a parking brake setup that actually works.
Safety is key. Festy brakes are adequate in a stock festy. Doubling the power makes them a lot less adequate. Running larger wheels and tires makes them straight up weak.91GL BP/F3A with boost
13.79 @ 100, 2.2 60' on 8 psi and 155R12's
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I definitely do not disagree, and i see your point with the unbalanced. But i have had these same wheels and tires for the last 20,000 miles driving 80+ mph on the highway to go to work and in stop and go traffic and did not have 1 single issue with stopping power plus in doing my new brakes i saw the rotors were out of spec, and the sliders for the caliper were completely seized, so now with brakes working properly they will be even better.... once i get this thing going and broke in and can have some fun, then ill see how the brakes feel, i am a stickler for good brakes also, my xj had horrible brakes with my 35s so i did a rear disc swap that helped a ton but i still want more because when im rock crawling in low gear my brakes arent strong enough and i have to throw it into neutral to stop on some extreme spots when your teetering...thats not too fun kinda makes you pucker up:nightmare: so now i am upping the booster to a dual diaphram out of the newer xjs and that will give me super brakes. Anyways went a little off track here i love good brakes but the stock festy didnt seem bad at all so we will see, if they are not up to par then i will just have to get new wheels and do the aspire swap.
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LOL You make a great argument bro (the best I've ever seen on this forum for keeping stock brakes). Especially considering you found the sliders tubes bound up.But I've found that once the Cadmium coating is gone from them they do it much quicker now. You can purchase just the tubes and rubber bellows if you want (Rock Auto etc).
Here's my very technical argument for swapping to Aspire breaks.. . My 20 year son drives a stock festy,and the first time he test drove my ATX Aspire he came back with a big smile on his face and said "HOLY BRAKES BATMAN". :salute:Last edited by nitrofarm; 02-13-2013, 05:18 PM.Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link
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Re: My n/a super b3 build
I agree, the Aspire brakes are well worth the effort, and I have personally saved my own car from a few accidents between the Aspire swap and the velcro-like grab that a set of 195/45R14 Toyo Proxes T1-R's will give you! I fear for the lives of the auto Festy drivers, who haven't got even the braking ability that the manual trans-assisted drivers have.In love with a MadScientist!:thumbright:
There's a fine line between breathtaking ingenuity and "That's the stupidest thing I've ever seen!"
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