Originally posted by bhazard
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The EFI Euro 4 is not really comparable to MS. I have chosen this system because of it's superior traction control features, as well as it's extremely effective auto-tune. This is the system used on many of the British Touring Car championship, World Touring Car, and s2000 world rally car front runners. It is also the system used by Lotus, and Lamborghini on their purpose built track cars. I have been tuning EFI systems controllers for almost a decade with great results. They are one of the more pricey systems available, but offer OEM quality construction and reliability. I've had my Euro4 for about 4 years and have used it to control a 500hp m10 powered BMW E30.Driving for me is neither a right nor a privilege. Driving is my passion, as it was for the people who invented the automobile, the people who paved the first roads and the people who continue to improve the automobile. Please respect this passion.
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Originally posted by Advancedynamix View PostThe EFI Euro 4 is not really comparable to MS. I have chosen this system because of it's superior traction control features, as well as it's extremely effective auto-tune. This is the system used on many of the British Touring Car championship, World Touring Car, and s2000 world rally car front runners. It is also the system used by Lotus, and Lamborghini on their purpose built track cars. I have been tuning EFI systems controllers for almost a decade with great results. They are one of the more pricey systems available, but offer OEM quality construction and reliability. I've had my Euro4 for about 4 years and have used it to control a 500hp m10 powered BMW E30.
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Charlie. Would you have any more pictures of that front lower support. I know it's secret, but I'd like to copy it. I'm interested to see how you mounted your cross member to it. And what percent under drive was your alternator pulley
Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk
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Gomez has nice pics of his and specs too.Any difference that makes no difference is no difference.
Old Blue- New Tricks
91 Festiva FSM PDF - Dropbox
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Originally posted by sketchman View PostGomez has nice pics of his and specs too.Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link
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Hey Charlie, I am joining this conversation late, sorry. To re-affirm, that is a beautifully clean engine and engine bay, and very interesting ideas on where the chassis twist comes from and how to strengthen it. I have debated that with friends who ice race these chassis many times, as to how best to improve the front suspension.
But I have a question, in the video you re-posted. There is a segment with the Miata following you where you go into a fast, wide sweeper, I think it might be the end of the front straight, but I could not tell for sure. The video shows at least 2, if not 3, sequences of the rear end starting to come out, you catching it, maybe getting a touch of understeer, then the rear comes out again to start the cycle a second, and maybe even a third time.
The same cycle happens to me ice racing in the fast sweepers, enter, apex, then understeer-oversteer-correct, oversteer-correct two or three times. It is not so pronounced in other chassis I have raced so I put it down to the short wheel base. But are there things you have done to the spring rates and shocks specifically to reduce this effect. At least, things you are willing to talk about?
With the ice racer, the suspension still needs to be soft, though stiffer than stock, as the rear stock spring rate is scary low when racing, it just bounces and oscillates way too much. (I put Festi fronts in the rear to stiffen it a bit) Anyhow, my point is, the actual rates are not going to be the same as yours, but the front to back ratio, or the corner weight ratios might be similar, to reduce the effect.
Of course, better driving is always indicated, but any chassis tips in this regard are very welcome.Thricetiva replaced Icetiva as the new ride
Icetiva-3-race-car-build
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2533299
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Originally posted by Advancedynamix View PostMy next roadrace setup will have a tubular front end with trailing links and no front sway bar. I'd like to put 250 ft.lbs to the ground with an open diff.
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Originally posted by bhearts View Postso youre telling us that the limited slip differential is only needed in cars that have absurd chassis flex. in your theory, no lsd is needed if you can get both your tires to stay on the ground an equal amount?Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link
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Originally posted by Icedawg View PostHey Charlie, I am joining this conversation late, sorry. To re-affirm, that is a beautifully clean engine and engine bay, and very interesting ideas on where the chassis twist comes from and how to strengthen it. I have debated that with friends who ice race these chassis many times, as to how best to improve the front suspension.
But I have a question, in the video you re-posted. There is a segment with the Miata following you where you go into a fast, wide sweeper, I think it might be the end of the front straight, but I could not tell for sure. The video shows at least 2, if not 3, sequences of the rear end starting to come out, you catching it, maybe getting a touch of understeer, then the rear comes out again to start the cycle a second, and maybe even a third time.
The same cycle happens to me ice racing in the fast sweepers, enter, apex, then understeer-oversteer-correct, oversteer-correct two or three times. It is not so pronounced in other chassis I have raced so I put it down to the short wheel base. But are there things you have done to the spring rates and shocks specifically to reduce this effect. At least, things you are willing to talk about?
With the ice racer, the suspension still needs to be soft, though stiffer than stock, as the rear stock spring rate is scary low when racing, it just bounces and oscillates way too much. (I put Festi fronts in the rear to stiffen it a bit) Anyhow, my point is, the actual rates are not going to be the same as yours, but the front to back ratio, or the corner weight ratios might be similar, to reduce the effect.
Of course, better driving is always indicated, but any chassis tips in this regard are very welcome.Driving for me is neither a right nor a privilege. Driving is my passion, as it was for the people who invented the automobile, the people who paved the first roads and the people who continue to improve the automobile. Please respect this passion.
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Originally posted by bhearts View Postso youre telling us that the limited slip differential is only needed in cars that have absurd chassis flex. in your theory, no lsd is needed if you can get both your tires to stay on the ground an equal amount?
Also, a side note. Not all chassis flex is bad. In fact, most chassis flex helps a car to maintain traction. Bad chassis flex is the kind that points the wheels in the wrong direction or destroys the car. The Festiva has just the right amount of good flex.Driving for me is neither a right nor a privilege. Driving is my passion, as it was for the people who invented the automobile, the people who paved the first roads and the people who continue to improve the automobile. Please respect this passion.
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To add my little bit of experience towards LSD in a festiva, my festiva sucks under WOT around a corner and was easier to handle with the open diff, however my straight line traction was improved with the LSD
1988 323 Station Wagon - KLG4 swapped
1988 323 GT - B6T Powered
2008 Ford Escape - Rollover Survivor
1990 Festiva - First Ever Completed KLZE swap (SOLD)
If no one from the future stops you from doing it, how bad of a decision can it really be?
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