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A 3/4" longer clevis does the trick. Also, you'll want to plug the hole that has the banjo fitting on it. A spacer can be used in place of the banjo. I used a plug from a Capri master cylinder on mine. If you wander around a salvage yard long enough, you'll find a plug. That hole doesn't have the flare in it, so a typical metric line plug wont work, but if you could find the right thread pitch bolt and a copper sealing washer than your good to go. If you have a spare Capri master cylinder, you can steal the plug from it.Driving for me is neither a right nor a privilege. Driving is my passion, as it was for the people who invented the automobile, the people who paved the first roads and the people who continue to improve the automobile. Please respect this passion.
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The festy clevis is longer and doesn't already have a nut welded on iirc, just take one of the extra lock nuts and weld it to a spacer and weld that to the festy clevis.
If you soak the festy clevis and lock nut in CLR over night, it will strip the zinc coating off for a better weld prep.Driving for me is neither a right nor a privilege. Driving is my passion, as it was for the people who invented the automobile, the people who paved the first roads and the people who continue to improve the automobile. Please respect this passion.
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The festy clevis is longer and doesn't already have a nut welded on iirc, just take one of the extra lock nuts and weld it to a spacer and weld that to the festy clevis.
If you soak the festy clevis and lock nut in CLR over night, it will strip the zinc coating off for a better weld prep.
Edit: now that I look back at your pictures, the clevis you have on it now is the long style and it isn't zinc coated. You can still soak it to remove the flash rust.Driving for me is neither a right nor a privilege. Driving is my passion, as it was for the people who invented the automobile, the people who paved the first roads and the people who continue to improve the automobile. Please respect this passion.
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Originally posted by william View PostLooking to go purple just can't quite find the color I want.
I picked up a 99 mazda miata booster this weekend for 26 bucks.
I'm hoping this is the one the swaps right in. Picks after install.'89L 110k mi. BP/G swapped
'90LX 68k mi. wrecked 12/14 RIP
'90 F250 4X4 108K mi.
'13 Kia Rio 5 LX 70k mi.
'18 Kia Soul 40k mi. Daily
'64 Studebaker Gran Turismo Hawk
'66 International Harvester pickup
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Pulled the beam today.
This is my makeshift shelter in preparation of the rain.
got the old axle out and the aspire axle cleaned scuffed and painted.
From this
To this
So now I'm waiting for the paint to cure so I can put it in.
Oh and this is what the replacement car looks like underneath
it's solid and I am going to Clean and paint this
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While your down there, use a rust neutralizing coating (I use mar-hyde) and then undercoating on your brake and fuel lines. The tank vent line is pretty susceptible to rotting through on these.Driving for me is neither a right nor a privilege. Driving is my passion, as it was for the people who invented the automobile, the people who paved the first roads and the people who continue to improve the automobile. Please respect this passion.
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Thanks for the tip I'll have to check that stuff out.
I planned on some kind of coating along with Sim rust preventer.
We use it at work to restore factory corrosion resistance.
Use it with a wond that sprays 360 and flexes thew the frame.
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I haven't updated this in a while I have been driving it around a little it was way down on power but some timing adjustment did the trick and freshen up the year old fuel should help some too .
I'm not getting too crazy with this as I'm swapping in my b6d as soon as I can find someone to rebuild the head .
I swapped the silver bumpers for my black ones.
I'll get some new pictures up soon been super busy.
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