Ømëga build thread

[shorestiva]

I'm in class taking my master cert for auto trans I've got some time to kill lol. Jackstands are fine until you get distracted with other projects. I've bought like 7 different cars since I tore mine down to do a bunch of major upgrades so all my time and money are going to those projects instead.

[Festiver]

oh wow 😍 these are beautiful expensive 2000+200 shipping but these are the first wheels that are in my size and pattern that I really love

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[firebush357]

oh wow �� these are beautiful expensive 2000+200 shipping but these are the first wheels that are in my size and pattern that I really love

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Those do look nice but $2200 is slightly out of my budget lol... You can buy like 4 more Festivas for that.

[Flw Sock]

Just put a v8 in and call it a day

[Festiver]

Lmao true if I get a career good enough I'll drop the cash then run economist tires lol expensive wheels cheap tires good tires though

Those do look nice but $2200 is slightly out of my budget lol... You can buy like 4 more Festivas for that.

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[Advancedynamix]

The biggest problem with the G series tranny isn't in the tranny, it's what's connected to the tranny. The same problems are seen in the Miata trans when high TQ and High RPM are extracted from a BP engine. This is due to the inherent harmonic problems that the BP suffers from. I've seen plenty of guys put an aluminum under drive pully, a lightened flywheel and stiff motor mounts and go to the track and have problems with broken oil pumps, broken crankshafts and shattered diffs and gearsets. Add TQ to this mess and your asking for trouble.
The fix to these issues was not cryo treating the gears, it was a propper damper pulley and flywheel and drive line mounts that absorb the shock load rather than transferring it the the brittle bits of steel that fail when rattled. Third gear doesn't loose teeth because the shafts are flexing, it looses teeth because of harmonics and it's typically the gear that high TQ cars start to hook up and transfer immediate shock loads to the driveline.
The OE engineers are very aware of these harmonics and that is why they build engines with harmonic dampeners, dual mass flywheels, fluid filled mounts and rubber couplers in the drive line. So many "tuners" ignore the single most destructive force in an internal combustion engine and they toss this engineering in the trash bin and blame failures on the TQ. Meanwhile, they use impact guns to break free fasteners. Ironic.

[Festiver]

The biggest problem with the G series tranny isn't in the tranny, it's what's connected to the tranny. The same problems are seen in the Miata trans when high TQ and High RPM are extracted from a BP engine. This is due to the inherent harmonic problems that the BP suffers from. I've seen plenty of guys put an aluminum under drive pully, a lightened flywheel and stiff motor mounts and go to the track and have problems with broken oil pumps, broken crankshafts and shattered diffs and gearsets. Add TQ to this mess and your asking for trouble.
The fix to these issues was not cryo treating the gears, it was a propper damper pulley and flywheel and drive line mounts that absorb the shock load rather than transferring it the the brittle bits of steel that fail when rattled. Third gear doesn't loose teeth because the shafts are flexing, it looses teeth because of harmonics and it's typically the gear that high TQ cars start to hook up and transfer immediate shock loads to the driveline.
The OE engineers are very aware of these harmonics and that is why they build engines with harmonic dampeners, dual mass flywheels, fluid filled mounts and rubber couplers in the drive line. So many "tuners" ignore the single most destructive force in an internal combustion engine and they toss this engineering in the trash bin and blame failures on the TQ. Meanwhile, they use impact guns to break free fasteners. Ironic.

I really didn't think the harmonics were transferred to the trans but that makes sense ok I'll notch the passenger frame rail and go for the best dampener I can find ati seems to be a favored term I'll look around though also I'm not going for any extremes with ømëga I do love bp torque and with some light turbocharging I imagine it'll be a great all arounder if the mpg isnt good I'll ditch the turbo

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[Advancedynamix]

The harmonics are often amplified by driveline components if precaution is not taken. A good friend of mine has been doing sonic failure anylisis on industrial machinery since the 1980s. He taught me a lot about the effects of harmonics, and how they can be managed. His trade detects failure points in machines that must run constantly without failure for years at a time and he monitors these machines. There are billions of dollars at stake in his trade, but the same thoery has held true for the race cars I've built and his advice has helped me build reliable endourance race cars. When your pushing the limits for 20+ hours at a time, harmonics are serious business.
The BP engine has 2 fatal flaws that generate destructive harmonics. 1. It's rod ratio is foolish for a sport derived engine without a balance shaft. 2: The crankshaft pitch is not helpful at the frequencies that we know to be harmful to hardened steel parts from 2-4" diameter (yeah, gears and oil pumps.... Hmmm).
Furthermore, the pulses from the power strokes of the engine create their own harmonics, which can fatigue parts. The tourque pulses also act to break tire traction (think of it like your engine is an impact gun that's working to break your tires free like a tight bolt, the pulses break the bolt free, not the torque.)
On paper, a B6 engine should be able to hook up about 15 percent more TQ than the BP simply because of it’s more favorable rod ratio. Rod ratio has a direct effect on the tractability of a vehicles power delivery. There's more to tuning race cars than adding displacement and turning up the boost. Unfortunately, these engineering theories rarely make it into "tuning literature" and are never mentioned in marketing.

[Festiver]

The harmonics are often amplified by driveline components if precaution is not taken. A good friend of mine has been doing sonic failure anylisis on industrial machinery since the 1980s. He taught me a lot about the effects of harmonics, and how they can be managed. His trade detects failure points in machines that must run constantly without failure for years at a time and he monitors these machines. There are billions of dollars at stake in his trade, but the same thoery has held true for the race cars I've built and his advice has helped me build reliable endourance race cars. When your pushing the limits for 20+ hours at a time, harmonics are serious business.
The BP engine has 2 fatal flaws that generate destructive harmonics. 1. It's rod ratio is foolish for a sport derived engine without a balance shaft. 2: The crankshaft pitch is not helpful at the frequencies that we know to be harmful to hardened steel parts from 2-4" diameter (yeah, gears and oil pumps.... Hmmm).
Furthermore, the pulses from the power strokes of the engine create their own harmonics, which can fatigue parts. The tourque pulses also act to break tire traction (think of it like your engine is an impact gun that's working to break your tires free like a tight bolt, the pulses break the bolt free, not the torque.)
On paper, a B6 engine should be able to hook up about 15 percent more TQ than the BP simply because of it’s more favorable rod ratio. Rod ratio has a direct effect on the tractability of a vehicles power delivery. There's more to tuning race cars than adding displacement and turning up the boost. Unfortunately, these engineering theories rarely make it into "tuning literature" and are never mentioned in marketing.

Hmm that really changes the way I think on power delivery especially the impact metaphor makes a lot of sense though I'm not sure what directly cause harmonics I'll definitely have to do my research

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[Festiver]

So to revive this lil prebuild planning out thread I crunched some numbers and I'm looking at about 2400 in suspension and wheels 😂 that's really not bad considering I'm replacing everything from the towers down with all brand new parts but still a good chunk of change

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[Festiver]

ENOUGH with all the plans time for some progress! Past 2 nights I've completely stripped the interior from dash back the car didn't hold onto the rust free expectations I has a bunch of small rot spots but none structural it's good enough I will do as much as I can myself and have a pro do what I don't feel comfortable with

The plastics are in amazing shape as this car will be a 2 seater I will sell these
The rear bench had a perfect frame I will try to sell this as it's just too clean to trash

I had 2 heart attacks tonight as I unknowingly was within 3" to a wasp (don't do wasps) twice once was my face looking under the car

I'll begin rust repair tomorrow starting off on the easiest and moving to more difficult




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[Festiver]

Rust repair is going well besides a cut off wheel blew up cutting my leg a bit all is good though I made another dash wrench Because I lost my first one

To make this dash wrench it's very simple but perfect for the job
1x 1/4" extension 1-2" length
1x abrasive cutter (cutoff wheel)
1x welder
1x grinder (pedestal grinder works best

Just cut the tip off the extension

Weld the tip 90° on the side of the extension

Grind the shaft of the extension at a steep angle to clear the windshield

Done you can use another 1/4 extension to give a longer handle for leverage



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[Festiver]

I grinded it a bit more to clear when the bolt is out

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[Festiver]

Also little touch grind off the snap on logo so no one knows you hacked a snap on 😂

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[Festiver]

Talkin to myself a lil but that's ok so interior is gutted steering column firewall insulation and gas tubes are all that remains also roof and rear wiring the black is all rust repair next gonna pull the steering system to clean up then gas tank and all the lines hoes for the gas and brake systems

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