Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Yet another b6t swap build, blue nap

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Yet another b6t swap build, blue nap

    It was 2011, after getting my text return and needing a second car found a little red Festiva. I didn't really know anything about it, had never driven stick but for $600 bucks, claims of 50mpg, and having a Ford badge I bought it. And that was how I got the Festiva bug.

    Unfortunately I totaled the car in front end collision by rear ending someone who slammed on their brakes, I found an auto Festiva for $200 bucks that already had the engine taken out, and figured since I'd already swapped the 5spd tranny in my Festiva an engine couldn't be that bad. It took me a week but it it was a success. Although I got rid of that car because of some ignition problem I tried and failed to track for several months.

    Ever since then I had a (metaphoric) Festiva sized hole in my heart. I joined the forum back after my first Festiva and always thought it would be cool to do a bt6 swap, I mean who wouldn't want more fun in their Festiva?! So last May I found a running 1991 Capri XR2 for and have been keeping my eye out for a clean(ish) Festiva. This July I found one in FL and had it shipped up to ohio.

    The clear coat is flaking bad, it's got plenty of dents but it was like 90% rust free, I discovered the tail light gaskets had rotted, so I made some new ones out of some 1/8 in rubber sheet from amazon and cut out the spare tire-well that had rotted through. I used some cheap sheet metal and screws and patched and primed the whole then covered with a piece of particle board. The moisture that had gotten in made a bad smell and ideal habitat for some nice Floridian bugs, so I gutted all trim and carpet behind the front seats. I also cut out the resonator that had rotted out and replaced it will a straight piece and clamps from autozone. so now it's really close to having no rust on it, and is completely functional.

    After doing a pretty good tune up, plugs, wires, pcv valve, air filter, thermostat, replace alternator and belts, along with an oil change I decided I should do some mods that would matter/carry over after the swap so I've done front coil overs for a vm mk2/mk3 golf with 2.5" ID x 8" 200lbs springs, rear kyb Excel-g struts for a cabriolet along Bilstein (193103) Steel adjustable height coil rest things with top hats and some 1 7/8" ID x 10" 120lbs springs in the rear. I also got some brand new front strut mounts for a 2001 kia rio (2 bolt).


    My idea with the suspension was to elevate the rear to get more weight to the front tires, but I'll say that the suspension made a huge difference and would have been worth it if I wear going to keep the stock motor. While doing that I also upgraded to some kia rio shifter bushing and that mad a huge difference.

    Then 2 weekends ago I installed a 95(era) honda civic/acura integra dual bend short shifter and an aluminum knob, when installing the short shifter I had to cut 2 coils from the retaining spring for the shifter. Although the shifter height is a little lower overall I really like it, although it's currently a 4 speed I really wish I had done this in my 5speed as it would have kept me from "punching" passengers in the thigh every time I went into 5th.

    That was the last physical thing I did to it :love4: but last week I ordered a ton of parts and I'll try to list the important ones
    used 03-05 kia rio power rack and pinion, festiva inner tierods, aspire outer tierod ends, aspire lower control arms/ball joints, Stage 3 clutch and 9.2lbs flywheel for a 1.6L miata, new XR2 cv axles and wheel seals, some reman capri front calipers, some xr2 plugs and wires, and some performance sway bar bushings, as well as some filters, plugs and blue wires.

    I'm also trying to make a decision on a new exhaust manifold as I'm pretty sure the cast/stock one is cracked as there is an exhaust leak and the turbo still spools.

    so now for my future plans for the car: to back track a little after the tune up but before new suspension I drove about 1.5 hours away to a drag strip for open tuning. it was a crazy experience as it was my first time to a strip, but they shut down open tuning early to start qualifying times for their DSM weekend, I was unable to take a pass. despite all the crazy looks I got, I heard some people talking about the **crappy** little car and pointing at me, and that was when I realized I didn't want to get a paint job or nice rims, I want it to look like a laughable car from the out side but be a mechanically beautiful car... so sleeper-ish.

    I'm planning on swapping the XR2 engine/tranny and front brakes along with all the parts I've ordered so far the 1st week of November. So far in the process I've taken little to no pictures but hope to take a lot during the swap.

    In the spring/summer I'm dreaming of an ecu, talon/eclipse turbo, a new fuel pump and injectors long with other mods but we'll see how that ends up as my ambitions often get larger than my wallet or attention span...

    to wrap up my first post I really appreciate all the knowledge and entertainment I've gotten from this site and hope some will enjoy my build
    Last edited by tehretadr; 10-26-2016, 05:18 AM.

  • #2
    Wow! Should be a nice car when your done! Probably already is
    Are you going to be able to go to the track before doing the engine swap? It would be really cool to race with the B3 first to have a good comparison of what the B6t does.
    So you have 200 pound springs on the front now with the B3? How is the ride just cruising on the freeway or in town? A bit harsh or not too bad?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Comment


    • #3
      Nice Festy! Sounds like your off to a good start. The 1.6 Miata pressure plate isn't going to clear the Capri throw out bearing tube. The hole in the center of the diapghram spring is too small. Also, just a tip, it's not a good plan to run a lightened flywheel on these engines. The flywheel helps dampen engine harmonics that lead to part fatigue. These B series engines are known for shattering hardened parts when they are pushed at higher RPM levels. A lightened flywheel is going to aggravate that problem.
      Driving for me is neither a right nor a privilege. Driving is my passion, as it was for the people who invented the automobile, the people who paved the first roads and the people who continue to improve the automobile. Please respect this passion.

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by ryanprins13 View Post
        Wow! Should be a nice car when your done! Probably already is
        Are you going to be able to go to the track before doing the engine swap? It would be really cool to race with the B3 first to have a good comparison of what the B6t does.
        So you have 200 pound springs on the front now with the B3? How is the ride just cruising on the freeway or in town? A bit harsh or not too bad?


        Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
        Thanks it's pretty nice but previous owner(s) seemed to have done little or no maintenance and I Just discovered the rack and pinion has a bunch of play (not the inner tie rod, that was my initial thought but it's actually the rack...) The 200lbs springs 8" which I is shorter, I read if you go shorted you should stiffen up and there is an advanced suspension thread on here I believe it recommend 160lbs for 10" so I figured add 20 for it being shorted and another 20 for the weight of the b6t... right now when only I'm in the car it's too stiff, when I have a 100+lbs passenger it doesn't feel nearly as bad so I'll have to see after the swap, also since they're not progressive springs it's a totally different feel but on really sharp hard turns the difference from a normal car is indescribably better, normally I would expect the car to lean more to one side but it stays level even if I brake enough to down shift to first and floor it, the aspect is really nice. As far as drag strip goes I was going to tonight but the only 2 within an hour of my house were closed for rain, so possibly this weekend and even if I don't make it to the strip I want to take it to the dyno so one way or another I'll have something I can measure the improvement by.


        Originally posted by Advancedynamix View Post
        Nice Festy! Sounds like your off to a good start. The 1.6 Miata pressure plate isn't going to clear the Capri throw out bearing tube. The hole in the center of the diapghram spring is too small. Also, just a tip, it's not a good plan to run a lightened flywheel on these engines. The flywheel helps dampen engine harmonics that lead to part fatigue. These B series engines are known for shattering hardened parts when they are pushed at higher RPM levels. A lightened flywheel is going to aggravate that problem.
        First of I'm a big fan of you're sticky advanced suspension thread! secondly thank! and rats, sounds like I'm just going to try to return the fly wheel/clutch combo as a 6 puck disk would more or less be pointless without the stage 3 pressure plate... I'm sure you just saved me from freaking out at 3 or 4 am one night next week!
        Last edited by tehretadr; 10-26-2016, 10:31 PM.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by tehretadr View Post
          Thanks it's pretty nice but previous owner(s) seemed to have done little or no maintenance and I Just discovered the rack and pinion has a bunch of play (not the inner tie rod, that was my initial thought but it's actually the rack...) The 200lbs springs 8" which I is shorter, I read if you go shorted you should stiffen up and there is an advanced suspension thread on here I believe it recommend 160lbs for 10" so I figured add 20 for it being shorted and another 20 for the weight of the b6t... right now when only I'm in the car it's too stiff, when I have a 100+lbs passenger it doesn't feel nearly as bad so I'll have to see after the swap, also since they're not progressive springs it's a totally different feel but on really sharp hard turns the difference from a normal car is indescribably better, normally I would expect the car to lean more to one side but it stays level even if I brake enough to down shift to first and floor it, the aspect is really nice. As far as drag strip goes I was going to tonight but the only 2 within an hour of my house were closed for rain, so possibly this weekend and even if I don't make it to the strip I want to take it to the dyno so one way or another I'll have something I can measure the improvement by.




          First of I'm a big fan of you're sticky advanced suspension thread! secondly thank! and rats, sounds like I'm just going to try to return the fly wheel/clutch combo as a 6 puck disk would more or less be pointless without the clutch... I'm sure you just saved me from freaking out at 3 or 4 am one night next week!
          ok, I'm going to put stiffer suspension in mine but keep stock height, thats why I asked, but I guess its not really comparable. Are you on the facebook group? theres a guy selling power steering racks cheap, that would be a good mod. otherwise check out the festiva store. Youll be even happier with the b6t once its in if you do spend some time at the track, so its good that your planning to. If you can only make it to the dyno maybe consider finding a deserted paved road that you can do a few 0-60 pulls on. I'm not sure how plentiful those are where you live though.
          Do some searching on this forum, theres been a fair bit of talk about the best clutch for the b6t. Some members have tried quite a few different brands, one actually doesnt work or fit! don't remember what brand though

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by ryanprins13 View Post
            ok, I'm going to put stiffer suspension in mine but keep stock height, thats why I asked, but I guess its not really comparable. Are you on the facebook group? theres a guy selling power steering racks cheap, that would be a good mod. otherwise check out the festiva store. Youll be even happier with the b6t once its in if you do spend some time at the track, so its good that your planning to. If you can only make it to the dyno maybe consider finding a deserted paved road that you can do a few 0-60 pulls on. I'm not sure how plentiful those are where you live though.
            Do some searching on this forum, theres been a fair bit of talk about the best clutch for the b6t. Some members have tried quite a few different brands, one actually doesnt work or fit! don't remember what brand though
            first wanted to wanted to say check this thread http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/sh...uspension-Mods specifically pages 19, 22, and 32 and basically look at spring weight Advancedynamix mentioned, I think 12" height would be stock but I think 10" springs wouldn't be that noticeable of difference but would make it nice.

            Also from top of the thread I listed "used 03-05 kia rio power rack and pinion" so basically I agree with you it should hopefully be a nice mod I got mine off ebay from a rio with 52k miles for $62 shipped so I think I got a good deal, and no I'm not on the facebook group, I check facebook like twice a year normally because someone tells me to check it they sent me an invite to a party/event.

            I'll definitely look for a different clutch kit, and figure something that works and I'll probably have to take a stop watch on a country road before I pull the stock engine

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Advancedynamix View Post
              Nice Festy! Sounds like your off to a good start. The 1.6 Miata pressure plate isn't going to clear the Capri throw out bearing tube. The hole in the center of the diapghram spring is too small. Also, just a tip, it's not a good plan to run a lightened flywheel on these engines. The flywheel helps dampen engine harmonics that lead to part fatigue. These B series engines are known for shattering hardened parts when they are pushed at higher RPM levels. A lightened flywheel is going to aggravate that problem.
              Thanks again I have ordered a new stage 3 clutch that claims to be compatible with a Mercury Capri XR2 91-93 comparing the pictures I can definitely see a difference, Unless I'm mistaken I think I read the miata clutch would sit .300 in higher off the fly wheel but they might have been talking about the GTX so I'm not 100% sure. below are the ebay pics of the two clutches, I'll try to compare them when I have both.

              Comment


              • #8
                1.6 Miata has a flat flywheel like a Festiva has, but bigger. The 1.8 Miata uses a stepped flywheel like the Capri. The 1.8 miata flywheel will work, but neither Miata pressure plate will work on the G series transmission without clearancing the center hole in the diaphragm spring. I did this on a Mazda Motorsport pressure plate that I used in Tweak. I set the pressure plate up on a precision I.D. grinder and ground the hole out to match the Capri xr2 pressure plate. That clutch has since been replaced by a standard Exedy replacement that works just as well.
                I tried an eBay "stage 2 racing clutch" in Tweak, before that. It slipped pretty bad. I just recommend a stock exedy replacement for most b6t cars with g series trannies. Big HP cars should have a high dollar clutch, like ACT or center force. I'd stay clear of SPEC at all cost, as I've had very bad luck with their products.
                Driving for me is neither a right nor a privilege. Driving is my passion, as it was for the people who invented the automobile, the people who paved the first roads and the people who continue to improve the automobile. Please respect this passion.

                Comment


                • #9
                  X2 on the spec clutch parts, mine was stage 2 and was slipping within 500 miles. Exedy for the win.
                  An idea can turn to dust or magic, depending on the talent that rubs against it.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Hi All, since my last post I've done, a lot!!!
                    First on Saturday I went to the drag strip, I did 3 passes and think I was getting a lot of wheel spin thus did about a second or so slower than I would have assumed but at least when I got 18.897 on my 3rd and final run I broke 70mph and that at least made me happy.
                    Then on Monday I got my XR2 out of storage, man the frame of it is like 90% rust and some mice got into it so it looks and smells like a turd but it still runs.! here is a pic of the engine bay on the xr2
                    Last week I contacted the dyno place by my house and got an appointment... you guessed it Tuesday, turns out the years could have been much worse to it as on it's best run it got 59hp at the wheels in 3rd gear.
                    So far I guess this post has been day of the week/ per something happening, so Wednesday I finally got the xr2 engine and tranny out.
                    I also got the tranny off the engine block, got the pressure plate off to discover an almost completely smooth disk, and a jacked up (broken) bearing on the flywheel.

                    Tomorrow (later today) I plan to clean the engine and tranny and paint the engine, I'll see how that goes... also sorry for my horrible pictures, that and I know I missed a lot of stuff in between.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      so I'm way overdue on a post.
                      so basically Thursday the third I spent nearly the entire day vigorously cleaning the block and ended up taking the cam gear and timing belt off for an even better clean. I also clean the transmission a little too.
                      \
                      that night I taped it off a bunch, primed and painted just the block. In the end I think the paint turned out nicely
                      IMG_20161108_211101.jpgIMG_20161108_211158.jpg

                      since it was kinda cold so waiting for it to dry/set on friday I pulled the engine from the festiva. I would have got the engine out of the festiva out way faster but the driver side cv axle refused to come out of the tranny, I spent 2 hours and gave up and my dad even gave it a shot later to no avail so I gave up and cut it off. not having planned to well what I'd do with the festiva engine I realized I was glad to have a convertible.
                      IMG_20161105_215108.jpg

                      then on saturday I cleaned up a little bit and swapped front hub assemblies for the festiva and the capri so I'd have 2 rolling chars and cleaned all the engine mounts and stuff in a shop sink.

                      That sunday I cleaned the crap out of the festiva engine bay, pulled the capri ecu, wiring harness and knock sensor. Then I decided I'd do the oil pan gasket and that took me till like 2 am as I cleanned it out really well.
                      Then since my time off was up it was back to the job the next morning.

                      Then monday after work I rented a car dolly and took the capri back to storage.

                      Then throughout that week I replaced the front cam seals, front crank seal, and valve cover gasket. I really wanted/want to paint the valve cover but I decided that could wait till spring.
                      Then last weekend I re-installed the cam gears, water pump, new timing belt, lower timing belt cover and the pulleys as well as new plugs and wires.
                      IMG_20161114_000204.jpgIMG_20161114_001156.jpg

                      I also cleaned up the used 03 kia rio power rack I had, cut off the to input lines and put vacuum covers over the stubs and I pokes some holes in the vacuum caps to release pressure.
                      IMG_20161114_000101.jpg

                      Also along the line not sure if I've mentioned that I discovered my turbo manifold had a crack and that is why the capri was smoking so bad, I thought was a hole in the downpipe but turned out it was a manifold crack. So I went out and bought a nice mig welder, helmet, argon, a miata flange, a turbo flange for stock capri turbo, a bunch of 1.5 OD 18 guage mild steel tubing U bends, white header paint, a cut off saw and belt sander... with hopes that I might be able to make a ram horn style header. and I had intentions of mocking it up this last weekend but discovered the flange that goes to the block head was poorly machined and the holes miss aligned, so I ordered another in hopes that one will fit.

                      so by this weekend I hope to have rack pinion swapped new control arms in and all new sway bar bushings... and hopefully this weekend I can start on the header... we'll see but I'll try update early next week.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        You may want to have your flywheel turned. The friction surface should be slightly rough, like the surface of your new pressure plate. If it's too smooth, the clutch will slip.
                        Also, you can fully drain all the fluid from your rack and put a hose on it from one hard line to the other. This allows air to travel back and forth from one side of the piston to the other and keeps junk and water out of the rack.
                        You're making awesome progress! That blue really looks great! A fellow member near by may need that B3, if your just planning on scrapping it.
                        To use Capri knuckles, you'll need Aspire control arms and Capri or Festiva outer tie rod ends.
                        If you plan to run 15" wheels, there is a big brake option for the Capri knuckles that uses Galant rotors and Escort GT calipers, it's a wicked package.
                        If you get a photo bucket account, you can post full size images.
                        Keep up the great work!
                        Driving for me is neither a right nor a privilege. Driving is my passion, as it was for the people who invented the automobile, the people who paved the first roads and the people who continue to improve the automobile. Please respect this passion.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Also, I know you already bought another flange, but here is a link to the best b6t head flange that I've found. I've bought 2 of these, they are really nice.

                          Miata 1.6 Head Flange
                          Driving for me is neither a right nor a privilege. Driving is my passion, as it was for the people who invented the automobile, the people who paved the first roads and the people who continue to improve the automobile. Please respect this passion.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Advancedynamix View Post
                            You may want to have your flywheel turned. The friction surface should be slightly rough, like the surface of your new pressure plate. If it's too smooth, the clutch will slip.
                            Also, you can fully drain all the fluid from your rack and put a hose on it from one hard line to the other. This allows air to travel back and forth from one side of the piston to the other and keeps junk and water out of the rack.
                            You're making awesome progress! That blue really looks great! A fellow member near by may need that B3, if your just planning on scrapping it.
                            To use Capri knuckles, you'll need Aspire control arms and Capri or Festiva outer tie rod ends.
                            If you plan to run 15" wheels, there is a big brake option for the Capri knuckles that uses Galant rotors and Escort GT calipers, it's a wicked package.
                            If you get a photo bucket account, you can post full size images.
                            Keep up the great work!
                            First off thanks!!!
                            I might try the hard line that is a good Idea, I also like the idea of the galant rotors that is something else to consider... I have new aspire control arms, festiva inner tie rods (new) and aspire outer tie rods (new) will those work? I thought I read somewhere that the festiva ones have the wrong taper but there is just so much info to take in it gets mushed in my head. I'm not sure what I'll do with the B3 but definitely not scrapping it, I also have an extra 5spd transmission So I'm thinking there could be another festiva in my future or an awesome (dangerous) go cart.

                            Originally posted by Advancedynamix View Post
                            Also, I know you already bought another flange, but here is a link to the best b6t head flange that I've found. I've bought 2 of these, they are really nice.

                            Miata 1.6 Head Flange
                            I saw that one but I have already purchased a bunch of 1.5 OD" 18 gaugue Tubing and the sch 10 pipe is a pretty penny plus I'd have to wait for shipping, I also saw a cnc one on amazon for 1.25 sch 10 pip the OD would still be a little big but closer if the cxracing one is foo bar again.

                            https://www.amazon.com/FID-Turbo-Maz...6+miata+flange

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              That flange looks like it's made by the same shop as the ones I have bought, just a different option.
                              As far as tie rod outer ends go, here is what works;
                              -Aspire knuckles need aspire or escort gt outer rod ends.
                              -Rio knuckles need aspire or escort gt outer ends.
                              -capri knuckles have the same taper as festiva so you'll use festiva outer rod ends.

                              One way to remember this is that Mazda used the festiva taper on BF chassis cars, when they switched to BG chassis (1990 on most models) they changed the taper. When they designed the Aspire they used the same taper as then current mazda platforms. The Capri is essentially a BF chassis Mazda with Mercury badges. I hope that clarifies things.
                              Last edited by Advancedynamix; 11-19-2016, 12:08 AM.
                              Driving for me is neither a right nor a privilege. Driving is my passion, as it was for the people who invented the automobile, the people who paved the first roads and the people who continue to improve the automobile. Please respect this passion.

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X