'99 Kia Pride Wagon

[m00se]

Sorry FestYboy, I missed your answer earlier. My engine has a IAT sensor instead of maf/vaf so there is another difference. I'll check the IAC valve next, I found somebody describing the problems i have and his IAC valve was broken. I didn't change cam timing yet but I'm pretty sure this is not the problem. I changed timing belts on countless mazda and ford engines and know how to read the marks.

I'll report back in a few hours when I have time to go to the garage, right now I have industrial measurement systems lecture which sounds much more interesting than it really is

[m00se]

This made me laugh a bit, spare tail light of my daily, VW T4:

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[FestYboy]

Scary close isn't it... You could almost use it for a wide body kit if you pulled the entire fender.

[m00se]

I ordered some maintainance parts, ignition cap, rotor and fuel filter last week, they should arrive today. I didn't want to continue diagnosing my problems because the parts were in bad condition and maybe it's really that easy :roll: So instead of getting my hands dirty with fuel and oil i decided to burn and cut them while welding the rocker. I'm almost done with it, then it's only the hole in the drivers floor that needs to be filled. With a little luck i can get the car inspected and registered next week htd

[m00se]

Soo, little update without much progress but anyway...

The Kia now sits in the driveway where the miata sat for a year. The miata runs again, the Kia doesn't. I still haven't found the problem with it but I have access to the original Kia dealers diagnostic boxes since relatives of my girlfriend had a Kia dealership two decades ago ccasion5:

I also changed the spark wires a few weeks ago without much hope it would solve it but i found them on ebay for under 10$ new and thought why not. They were from an italian manufacturer and are the best quality wire i ever held in my hands, really surprised by them! But of course they didn't solve the problem I suspect the injectors to be the culprit now but that's just a feeling. Does anyone know if miata injectors fit the rail physically?

Before I put the car in the driveway I threw some old plates on it and took it for a short ride because I wanted to see how the engine behaves under load. It runs on 2-3 cylinders most of the time but sometimes the problem disappears for a few seconds and it runs great. Really powerful compared to other little econoboxes I had and really light. Will be a fun car!

To make this update a little less boring here is a picture of the car in all its rusty non running glory

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[m00se]

Ok a 10sec search led me to the answer: miata injectors drop right in. But they may be a little to big with almost double the capacity I will try it anyway just to check if the stock injectors are bad. Great forum!

[m00se]

Another update without too much progress, but anyway:

I changed the ignition coil today and the car runs better. I took it for another drive and when warm and not idling, it runs perfect. Idle is still not great but at least it runs on all four cylinders. Time to fix the remaining rust spots, put on new front tires and get it registered!

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[m00se]

Ok, it still runs like a bag of nuts when not fully warmed up, not good. But instead of buying various parts to try and find the problem I'm buying another car today. It's a short wheelbase four door, running and driving with good tires (need some), a battery (also need one) and a radio (... ) and to literally top the cake it has the big sun roof. How much sets this sweet parts car me back? Almost 100$. I report back when I went and collected it Here is a picture out of the ad:
neuerKia1.jpgneuerKia2.jpg

[FestYboy]

Fun top!!!! Friggin sweet! You practically stole that car.

[m00se]

Man that was a rollercoaster of decisions and fun...

I went and collected the car last week, got temporary plates, drove 200mls with a friend and was really excited when we inspected the car. It was way better than expected, flawless interior, everything works, the sun roof is mint! And most importantly, the engine runs great. Here is what 55$ got me:



This was 10mls into the way home and just before we went to fill up the tank just to find out the gas filler neck was completely rusted trough right behind the cap. So after pouring some precious dinojuice all over the floor we learned to hold the nozzle turned and managed to fill the tank. Success! But this was only chapter one...

After taking it home and having a blast driving it (remember, the kombi doesn't run, I didn't drive any Pride/Festiva more than 2mls at this point) I quickly decided that this new car is way better than the kombi and to keep this one instead. Then I checked for rust and decided otherwise...




These are just two examples, I discovered the worst spot trying to fix the filler neck. The whole area between gas cap and left tail light is basically gone. From the outside it looks ok, even the paint is in good condition. But there is just nothing holding the filler neck anymore, all gone. Soo the kombi gets the attention like planned and gets finally fixed while I drive the 5-door for its last two month of registration.

Yesterday was chapter two of the rust hole story:



I stranded 2mls from our garage when the fuel pump finally sucked in all the dirt and rust that fell into the hole. Being right behind the wheel there must have gotten water and dirt in for months...



We emptied the tank, cleaned the gunk out and refilled it. It worked yesterday but I'll change the fuel filter just for caution.

Positive things:



I mounted 165/65 R14 Bridgestones on the SSR and they look great! A testfit on the car was also successful, no rubbing and sweet fitment.



The ride height problem will be fixed by cutting the springs, no need for fancy engineering on a car that has two month left to live
The kombi will get proper suspension when time is due.

This sums up the last five days, carwise. Updates will come soon as I hopefully find the damn problem the kombi has and fix it using parts of the 5-door.

Cheers, Max

[FestYboy]

That's not too far gone yet. Some sheet metal and rivets, and a couple weld patches with some POR-15 would keep you going for another decade.

[m00se]

Trust me, I didn't show you the bad spot yet The first rust picture really isn't too bad, the kombi has the same rust and I already fixed it. But the area behind the left quarterpanel is just gone, with really bad accessibility and many complex shapes which just doesn't make sense to start repairing. I'll take pictures of it when I'm back at the car.

[m00se]

Ok so the kombi won't stop fighting me although I already decided to keep it. Damn car. It still has really bad misfiring under all conditions, worse when engine is cold but also when warmed up. When idling, with steady throttle and when revving. So basically always. Except there are sometimes a few seconds (5-30 maybe) where it runs normally. I changed MAP sensor, TPS and distributor from the 5-door with no success. All other parts and sensors are checked ok, new or ruled out by the sympthoms. I'll check the belt timing again and inspect the crank pulley just to be sure and change the ECU, if this isn't successful I'll change the whole engine with all associated parts. A B5/6/8 swap is also an option although I really don't have time and space for a project like this to be really honest...

[Rick the Quick]

I once owned a Toyota that ran as you are describing. It turned out to have a bent valve. The stem was bent just enough to keep it from closing all the way. Sometimes it would run fine for a few miles and then it would start hanging up. Have you checked your compression? Nice buy on the parts car!

[m00se]

I didn't check the compression yet but I will when a buddy brings his gauge around next time. I'm sure I will find the problem, the question is when The faulty part is always the last one you check