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  • boring build

    Wanted to share my project, lots of good info on the site. 1988 or 89, not sure since door sticker is scraped off- anyways all stock. I plan on keeping the 1.3L but changing it to weber. Engine has the markings of a junkyard motor but I have no idea how many miles are on it - 220k on the car I was told.



    Started pulling the entire interior





    Lucky to find 2 festys in the junkyard that I pulled windows/weatherstrip from

    Got 2 new window runs from fourgreen, didn't have the rubber strips that stop rain from getting past the window though - so I found the best of what I pulled and used that. I ended up using inside (yellow tab) runs on both the outside and inside since they were in better shape. I think it will work out OK - not sure if anyone else has done this


  • #2
    Got sound deadener from sound deadener showdown





    Oh, here's the engine pic

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    • #3
      started pulling the dash too





      The defroster vents are toast

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      • #4
        I basically want to simplify/improve wiring, any suggestions at this point since I have the dash apart?

        I am considering removing the ECU since I'm going weber, is it worthwhile?

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        • #5
          Are you in an area that rusts? If so 2 cans of wax oil or rust proofing would take you 15 minutes with what you have apart and help a lot to make the car last longer.
          Make sure to to sound deadner above where the cat converter and muffler are, also in the rear hatch. Hatch especially should be rustproofed.
          Pull ccover off fuel tank and see what it looks like in there. Clean or full of crud?
          Clean dust and crud out of your ac evaporater fins.
          Led dash lights?
          Spray graphite lube down handbrake and speedo cables. Clean speedo cable first.
          Make sure seal between where the flapper unit the blower fan sucks air through meets the body is good. During heavy rain water can leak through there if its not.


          Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk
          Last edited by ryanprins13; 04-22-2017, 04:01 PM.

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          • #6
            Nothing boring about a build, we want to hear more of what your plans are, good looking car to start with. Keep us in the loop.
            An idea can turn to dust or magic, depending on the talent that rubs against it.

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            • #7
              Traveled back to CA and found a good carpet and shift linkage from a rust-free junkyard car. Time to ship it back home!



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              • #8
                Looking good. Did you have sound deader showdown make you up a kit or did you just get there cld tiles?
                I'm interested in doing a full treatment mlv closed cell foam and cld tiles . Let us know how quite you get it!

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                • #9
                  i just got a bunch of the CLD tiles - once I get it all back together I will report back. One problem though is that I've never driven the car before - so I don't know how loud it was previously so... not sure how much help that will be to ya.

                  Still have to put more along the hatch/floor/firewall. Now that the dash is out I need to take the heater box out as well to get the plastic liner out to the firewall sheet metal

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                  • #10
                    i'm looking for some front defroster vents as mine are pretty well destroyed and every other one I've found is super fragile and cracks when touched - probably because of sun and heat?

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                    • #11
                      PM'd you about the vents.

                      Probably would be a good idea to take the windshield wiper assembly out of the cowl to get all the rust off it and paint it. Much easier to clean in there with it out.
                      You can also clean and paint those wiper arms and make them look like new.
                      Take picture of how all the controls hooks up on the heater fan assembly when you take it out. You should take it completely apart to clean it as I'm sure it is full of junk.. same for the AC evaporator. Be very careful when removing the heater hoses so as not to distort the shape of the brass tubes.. you might want to cut the hoses off them.
                      I learned this the hard way.
                      Last edited by 1990new; 04-24-2017, 10:29 PM.

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                      • #12
                        thanks for the info - how do you get the cowl off? I don't see any bolts - does it just pull off?

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by justinhw View Post
                          thanks for the info - how do you get the cowl off? I don't see any bolts - does it just pull off?
                          Cowl is welded on. I believe you take a plate on the firewall off to remove the wiper stuff from under the cowl?

                          Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by justinhw View Post
                            thanks for the info - how do you get the cowl off? I don't see any bolts - does it just pull off?
                            The cowl cover is spot welded on and I have never taken one off. You don't need to remove the cowl cover to remove the wiper assembly.
                            To remover the wiper assembly, you remover the wiper blade arms and them remover the nuts under them that hold the shaft parts to the cowl.
                            Then remove the electrical connectors to the wiper motor, then the 4 bolts that hold the wiper motor on and then the 4 screws to the right of that
                            that hold the black plate on. Before doing any of this, at least a day or two ahead of time, I would recommend that you spray a little pb-blaster or wd40 on and around all of the nut, bolt and screws that you will be removing. Before removing the motor gear from the wiper control mechanism, be sure to mark the exact position that it is attached so you can but it back at that same position. The arms will come out easily, you just have to position them correctly so they can be removed. The arms are most likely rusty but with luck they should still be able to be used. Wirewheel or use some other means to remove all the rust and then paint them. Be careful not to separate universal ball joint connectors, the plastic connectors that hold them in are hard to come by. If they do break, I found a connector that I made to work with a little modification..
                            not as good as the original but it works. Complete good used arm assemblies sell for a minimum of around $60 if you can find one.

                            Remove the black plate with the arrow on it on the right side to clean out behind there. I use a smaller hose on my shop vac to snake through from side to side to blow and suck everything out of there. You can then wash it there with a large bottle type brush and a mop type brush..or whatever type of cleaning tool you can devise to reach in there. You can spray in there with a hose too. Since you have the dash and carpet out you don't have to worry about water splashing in over the fresh air intake dams. On Rosie I found some small holes rusted through at the base of the fresh air dam tower. If you have holes there, it's difficult to get behind it to seal it up. You need to find someone with long skinny hands to reach behind it.
                            Last edited by 1990new; 04-25-2017, 11:44 AM.

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                            • #15
                              Got the oil report for the engine - unknown miles, looked like a replacement engine from a junkyard

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