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Originally posted by gorgonheimer View Posthaving the hole car makes the swap a lot easier. then you can use a lot of the plugs for the wiring and also the shifter and ecu and just lots of stuff.
Thats exactly what i was thinking. plus i can part out the rest of the car and probably break even.Tim S
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Originally posted by gorgonheimer View Postalso traction is a big issue. wheel hop mostly. when i try to even do a burn out it hops like crazy and will not sit still and smoke the tires. ill post a vid of the burnout attempts next week.
Getting rid of the sway-bar-acts-as-the-tension-rod suspension concept would go a log way towards remedying that wheelhop problem.
Wheelhop on FWDs is mostly caused by the wheel actually moving front to back as the tires try to get the car moving and goes through a cycle of grabbing and slipping.
The only thing on a Festiva to keep that cycle of vibration from happening is the sway bar bushing at the control arm and the pillowblock bushings that the swaybar pivots on at the front of the car. The Festiva suspension was just not designed with the idea of planting power in mind. Putting power down was a priority for the engineers somewhere after being cheap and having a decent ride. It just wasn't a priority.
Making A-arms that get rid of all those bushings would be fairly easy, but you'd probably lose the sway bar.
Is that a trade off people who drag race Festivas would make to get better traction? Trading handling for straight line traction?
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Originally posted by Slyder View PostThats exactly what i was thinking. plus i can part out the rest of the car and probably break even.youtube.com/neanderpaul 88 festiva LX w/BP G25 MR 5 speed waiting for wiring- 93 Festiva GL auto w/ air, waiting for B6t/G4A-HL - 98 Nissan Quest - 02 Mazda protege 5 wife's DD
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Originally posted by Jimmy812 View PostDoes everyone have that problem?
Getting rid of the sway-bar-acts-as-the-tension-rod suspension concept would go a log way towards remedying that wheelhop problem.
Wheelhop on FWDs is mostly caused by the wheel actually moving front to back as the tires try to get the car moving and goes through a cycle of grabbing and slipping.
The only thing on a Festiva to keep that cycle of vibration from happening is the sway bar bushing at the control arm and the pillowblock bushings that the swaybar pivots on at the front of the car. The Festiva suspension was just not designed with the idea of planting power in mind. Putting power down was a priority for the engineers somewhere after being cheap and having a decent ride. It just wasn't a priority.
Making A-arms that get rid of all those bushings would be fairly easy, but you'd probably lose the sway bar.
Is that a trade off people who drag race Festivas would make to get better traction? Trading handling for straight line traction?Tim S
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^^REALLY... random question. could i take the turbo from a car that comes stock with a turbo ((example) 1986 lebaron) and put that onto a festiva?
SimonTuffGuy: Dang that sucks, are you going to be putting the G25mr tranny in this summer when you drag?
I appologize for being such a "post whore"Last edited by Slyder; 03-14-2009, 08:04 PM.Tim S
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you have a ways to go before being tagged as a "post whore"Trees aren't kind to me...
currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.
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Originally posted by SimonTuffGuy View PostHah... I have a problem with splitting transmissions in half when I try to burn out... :-P
-"Hairlipstiva" 1991 GL 5spd (swapped from an auto), rolling on Enkei 14x6 +38 with 195/45/14 Toyo's, Jensen MP5720 CD deck, tach install, LED strip in cluster, down position rear wiper, FMS springs, Gabriel shocks on 4 corners, Acura Integra short shifter
-Escort GT 91 donor car with BP, G5M-R tranny to be dropped in the little guy...
-Aspire brake swap COMPLETE!
https://www.wunderground.com/persona...?ID=KOKOWASS38
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Originally posted by Slyder View PostI didnt know that. thanks for the info I was just planning on following Quaddawgs write up except change the spring rate to 175 front 150 rear in a hope to reduce wheel hop.
If you made A arms and as a result had to get rid of your sway bar, stiffer springs would also help control the body roll.
A combination of the two is probably the best solution.
I've been planning to build some front A arms for the Festiva. I'll post up pics when I do, but it will be a while before I'll have an engine swap that will test to see if A arms really do help put the power down better.
From my experience with traction bars on other FWD cars, I suspect that switching to proper A arms will be the innovation that really help Festivas start turning much better times.
A proper limited slip would be really nice too, but that might be asking for too much.
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Originally posted by Jimmy812 View Post
A proper limited slip would be really nice too, but that might be asking for too much.89 Festiva L Carby 4 Speed... RIP. Evicted and Scrapped. I HATE MY FAMILY
94 aspire 3 door Red -- Former BP, V6 KLDE swap underway! RIP... Rotted and Flooded out...
2012 Mazda 2 Touring 5 Speed... It's Very, Very, Very green... Daily Driver
1964 Barracuda 360 V8 Push Button 904 Auto, New Money Pit
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