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  • Originally posted by walth View Post
    It is an absolute blast.

    We swapped my car from manual rack to Kia Rio power rack, camber plates in the rear. Swapped bens car in a day and a half: advanced suspension, camber plates, new front hubs.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


    I am going to try to get my front to act better but i may end up having to pull the camber plates out for autocross. The car simply doesnt have space to generate enough speed for that much camber. Or so it seems at this point. My front pressure was my biggest killer tho. I cant decide on a path until i get the front set right! Its in the works tho.
    1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
    1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
    1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
    19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
    1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

    Comment


    • well, I found out this weekend's autocross that I'll be competing in T-SMF which is the local club's tire pax. Should be interesting
      1991 Beastiva L BP autoX'er

      Comment


      • dang you guys start early! You are in the tire pax because you are on slicks? I wonder how many cars are in that class haha
        92 Festiva L - bp & hydro g, advanced coilovers, aspire brake swapped

        Comment


        • not slicks, 200tw - it's their "street tire pax"
          tire pax because there's absolutely no one running SMF. And with all the aspire and protege parts it really can't run in any street classes or anything lesser, really with the 1.8 it should be in X prepared but of course that would mean I'd be dead last no matter what.
          Last edited by Hatch; 01-13-2018, 08:56 PM.
          1991 Beastiva L BP autoX'er

          Comment


          • woohoo! good way to start the season - 1st in SMF! waiting on results to see what pax... won it by a tenth
            1991 Beastiva L BP autoX'er

            Comment


            • Originally posted by Hatch View Post
              woohoo! good way to start the season - 1st in SMF! waiting on results to see what pax... won it by a tenth
              Hatch can you tell your setup again please? Congrats on the win man. What area do you run in? I would kill to have my season staring already. We dont even have our schedule yet!
              Last edited by mikemounlio; 01-15-2018, 08:30 AM.
              1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
              1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
              1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
              19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
              1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

              Comment


              • Originally posted by mikemounlio View Post
                Hatch can you tell your setup again please? Congrats on the win man. What area do you run in? I would kill to have my season staring already. We dont even have our schedule yet!
                Thanks Mike! Yea the benefits of being a nomad - I can go where the action is! I'm in NW Florida, the club is Wiregrass Region. Gulf coast region kicks off their season this sunday, so I'll have a couple events in before most clubs have their schedules out!

                This is the build list:

                Suspension:
                Aspire front and rear control arms and rear hoop
                EBC Green Stuff Pads
                EBC front Rotors
                Goodrich EGT lines
                KYB GR2 fronts, Mazda 323 GR2 rears
                Aspire Front Springs: 175lbs Rear Springs: 135lbs

                Battery Box in the rear, Moroso setup

                Tranny: Mazda E Series
                New half Shafts, New Shift Forks, Output Seals

                Engine: Hot Tank, Chem Cleaned, Honed with TRW Chromo Piston Rings, KING bearings, 10 under. Decked 1MM. Full rebuild on the head. New Oil Pump, New Water Pump, New Timing Kit. Full FelPro Gasket kit. Bhanoff Organic Clutch, resurfaced flywheel. 'Festiva' New Cap, Rotor, Coolant flush. New Fuel Pump and relays. EGT ECU.

                15x7" Drag wheels with 195/50 Hankook Ventus RS3 (not recommended - pony up for bridgestone re71-r)
                Attached Files
                Last edited by Hatch; 01-17-2018, 08:46 AM.
                1991 Beastiva L BP autoX'er

                Comment


                • Originally posted by Hatch View Post
                  Thanks Mike! Yea the benefits of being a nomad - I can go where the action is! I'm in NW Florida, the club is Wiregrass Region. Gulf coast region kicks off their season this sunday, so I'll have a couple events in before most clubs have their schedules out!

                  This is the build list:

                  Suspension:
                  Aspire front and rear control arms and rear hoop
                  EBC Green Stuff Pads
                  EBC front Rotors
                  Goodrich EGT lines
                  KYB GR2 fronts, Mazda 323 GR2 rears
                  Aspire Front Springs: 175lbs Rear Springs: 135lbs

                  Battery Box in the rear, Moroso setup

                  Tranny: Mazda E Series
                  New half Shafts, New Shift Forks, Output Seals

                  Engine: Hot Tank, Chem Cleaned, Honed with TRW Chromo Piston Rings, KING bearings, 10 under. Decked 1MM. Full rebuild on the head. New Oil Pump, New Water Pump, New Timing Kit. Full FelPro Gasket kit. Bhanoff Organic Clutch, resurfaced flywheel. 'Festiva' New Cap, Rotor, Coolant flush. New Fuel Pump and relays. EGT ECU.

                  15x7" Drag wheels with 195/50 Hankook Ventus RS3 (not recommended - pony up for bridgestone re71-r)
                  Sounds like a fun setup! How do you like the EBC pads and rotors? i am thinking i will upgrade to them or have my knuckles custom machined to allow for a willwood setup. I would think the ebc take a autocross lap or two to hear up and then really start to grip good.
                  1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
                  1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
                  1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
                  19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
                  1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

                  Comment


                  • I have no complaints on brakes, never had any fade. Locks em up easily if you romp on em.

                    I guess I could add that there's no interior behind the front seats, and miata flares to cover up the Sawzalled fenders
                    Last edited by Hatch; 01-17-2018, 11:25 AM.
                    1991 Beastiva L BP autoX'er

                    Comment


                    • Originally posted by Hatch View Post
                      I have no complaints on brakes, never had any fade. Locks em up easily if you romp on em.

                      I guess I could add that there's no interior behind the front seats, and miata flares to cover up the Sawzalled fenders
                      I am fully gutted. Nothing under the dash. Actually my dash is floppy as its only held in by a couple metal screws. No heater core, radio no nothing. My rear glass is gone. rear seat support is gone. It is as gutted as you can get and still have lights. My new autocross car is going even lighter. I want it to be under 1800 pounds with bumpers on. I think i can do it tho. Carbon doors, hatch, bumpers, hood the works.
                      Last edited by mikemounlio; 01-17-2018, 02:45 PM.
                      1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
                      1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
                      1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
                      19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
                      1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

                      Comment


                      • I've heard that unless it's "dry carbon" the hood and maybe even doors will be heavier than the thin skinned OEM

                        I'd say for autocross my ideal budget build would be a b6t or a BP supercharged, with advanced suspension, running 13" slicks

                        and if not budget, throw a ford 2.3 ecoboost in there
                        1991 Beastiva L BP autoX'er

                        Comment


                        • Originally posted by Hatch View Post
                          I've heard that unless it's "dry carbon" the hood and maybe even doors will be heavier than the thin skinned OEM

                          I'd say for autocross my ideal budget build would be a b6t or a BP supercharged, with advanced suspension, running 13" slicks

                          and if not budget, throw a ford 2.3 ecoboost in there
                          The hood will not save me any weight as i have a gtx hood now. Its like 2 or 3 lbs. Its super thin. The doors i will save weight on! And the hatch i will save weight. The bumpers will be redone just to look nice. I think i can save enough weight in the doors and hatch to not add any weight with the carbon crap. I run 13" hoosier slicks and a turbo bp with the advanced suspension. Its one hell of a combo. I love it and will only make it better and better over time.
                          1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
                          1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
                          1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
                          19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
                          1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

                          Comment


                          • @MikeMounlio
                            You had some questions a couple years ago, as a novice AutoXer. It seems now that you are figuring things out, and I've heard that the best way to learn something is to teach someone else, so would you be able to tell me, a novice, what you've learned from your experience with your builds and driving?
                            A mechanic knows how; A technician knows why.

                            Wrecked. Repairs in Progress"Frankie" 1957 Chevrolet 3100, NA 2bbl 283cuin, Muncy Granny 4sp, 3.90 Open Diff @ ~95K miles

                            Wrecked. Repairs in Progress"Alice" 1991 Ford Festiva L, NA EFI B3, 5sp @150k miles

                            Reassembling"Aurora" 1991 Ford Festiva L, NA EFI B3, 5sp @240k miles

                            FB Festiva page: Jared Bennett
                            Instagram: jaredbear82

                            Comment


                            • Originally posted by Sid_RallyX_82 View Post
                              @MikeMounlio
                              You had some questions a couple years ago, as a novice AutoXer. It seems now that you are figuring things out, and I've heard that the best way to learn something is to teach someone else, so would you be able to tell me, a novice, what you've learned from your experience with your builds and driving?
                              I would love to help. Let me start by saying i am still 100% a novice driver.

                              not in any real order. just as i happen to think

                              #1 just get out there and start driving. The best thing is seat time in the car. So drive it. Drive it as much as you can. I dont daily my autocross car and it kills me. Drive it as muc as you can.

                              #2 Autocross it even if you dont have a good suspension or motor swap. The more you get used to the cones flying by the better.

                              #3 walk the track several times. look at each turn as its very own turn AND look at each turn as well as the turn before and after. Sometimes its faster to go slow in one section so you can hit another section better and faster.

                              #4 ride with others. Get in the car with other drivers to see what they do. If they are faster then you i bet the 1st thing you notice is how smooth they drive. (my big issue is driving smooth)

                              #5 drive smooth. i have power for days but when i control the power and smooth it out i run fastest.

                              #6 look a turn ahead. if you focus on the cone at the car you will mess up the one thats next. always look a turn ahead. If you focus on a single cone thats to long. you always want to keep the focus moving forward. it will help slow down the speed at which the cones seem to pass you by.

                              #7 tire pressure. You want to find your tires best psi. Im not sure where to even start here as i have no real idea. I just simple adjust tire pressure so that my tire is using all its tread and none of the side wall. If you look at the tire after a run you will see where the smoothness stops and the snad paper looking rubber starts. That snad paper looking part is the rubber that has pulled off the tire and deposited on the side. Adjust tire psi down if your smooth section is not to the edge of the tread pattern. tire pressure up if the smooth section is all the way on the side wall. After a run look at others tires to get a better idea as to what i mean. Again im new and this may be off. This is just what i do for now!!!

                              #8 Car setup. The better you dal in the car the better chance you have at doing good. I have been through a lot of different parts to find what works for me. So far i have to say 100% what charlie says about the setup seems to be the best. I will list my build below

                              aspire front brakes
                              festy lca
                              festy inner tie rods
                              rio power steering rack
                              aspire outter tie rod ends
                              full advanced suspension front and rear (120# front springs, 105# rears)
                              festy rear drums redrilled to match aspire bolt pattern.
                              no rear brakes (not sure this will matter in autocross or not)
                              motor is a bp
                              trans is the g series
                              motor is turboed
                              core support has been done
                              motor is moved forward quite far
                              i made a 3rd trans mount
                              all mounts are made with rubber. no hard mounts
                              My trans has the mfactory lsd (charlie says this might be hurting my times) i have not tested an open diff yet.
                              The car is gutted (everything is gutted out of it- the car is autocross only no lights, doors, glass, hatch, dash, nothing)
                              camber plates in the rear -3.5 and the front is cambered as well
                              13" slicks off ebay


                              I started out with an aspire rear beam with sway bar and 120 pound springs in rear. 150lbs in front. the car was way to stiff and had lots of understeer. The car seems to do best "soft" everyone tells me at each race man you need to add rear sway bar its lose...but the car does best for me when its lose. I still drive the car like a total noob. i dont left foot brake. i dont transfer weight. i dont really stick to a plan. I get to excited and just drive fast. I need to work on taking a breath and chill out. Gotta focus more on what to do vs hit the gas.

                              ask anymore questions yo want. i still suck so this is all a noobs opinion
                              1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
                              1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
                              1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
                              19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
                              1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

                              Comment

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