B6 hop ups and festy weight loss

[Team Lightning]

Mine originally had a Miata turbo manifold set up with a T3 turbo flange if I remember correctly. The G5m-r I believe is a g series transmission. The one from a Capri XR2 I think. Rob (Shadetree) put mine together for me. He is on the Facebook page as Robert Wehland. On here as Shadetree. He can give you more info on the turbo parts than I can. I know it now has a factory BPT turbo and manifold with B6T ecu and wiring harness. It’s quick and fun to drive. A definite handful with the mfactory lsd.

[Rick the Quick]

Thanks Jerry, yeah I have the Capri transmission from the B6T donor car. I forgot that it is a G type transmission.. Your signature reads : BP G5M-R Turbo. I understood that as your turbo is a G5M-R........
never mind. LOL. Speaking of Rob Wehland, aka Shadetree he made me a set of very nice looking mounts for the B6T car. I know enough welders here in town but why not have the guy that has done them a bunch of times do them. I spend most of my time doing bodywork and painting. It leaves me little time for exploring the unknown. You say the BPT car is "a definite handful with the mfactory lsd". Would it not be more of a handful without the limited slip? One more question : how do you compare the stock E transmission to the G as far as ease of shifting? Another way I could put it is all 3 of my Festivas with E transmissions seemed to shift better than the Capri. The Capri transmission did not shift bad, it just didn't feel as pleasant to run through the gears. What are your thoughts?

[Team Lightning]

For me, I bought my 90 new, the eseries is much easier to shift. I’m running pennzoil Synchromesh in the Eseries trans. The BP + T car with the mfactory has Torco MTF. Recommended by mfactory. The gseries being a heavier trans, is stiffer when shifting. By this I mean, the eseries trans I can go from first to fifth gear without using the clutch once I get it in first. That’s going into 2nd,third, fourth, then fifth. I normally can go from fifth back to first without using the clutch when I practice regularly. The g series is much more difficult to shift without using the clutch. At least mine is. Yours might be different. My mfactory will pull some on uneven road. Making it kinda hairy/twitchy under power.

[TominMO]

Rick, I'm running 165-55-14 Federal Formosa GIO's and it rarely spins. I Do Not Launch like I'm drag racing. I will turn it loose in second and third gears though.

I've gotten 40+ mpg and its quick.

Everything Jerry said, except my tires (same size) are the Achilles Economists.

[ricko1966]

You guys have some kick a$$ cars . Okay the engine I have is a 1991 323 mazda b6. Can I swap on a 16v head? Are there any factory B6 parts better than others? Back to what I know, VWs, some cars had better cams some had better heads, some had better exhausts and it was a pretty easy deal to find a good cam a factory big valve head a dual down tube exhaust, pull the restrictor out of the throttle body and or the restrictor in the exhaust etc. or go 16 v, all their stuff was so interchangable. Really from what one of you was saying a DOHC engine was making 107 hp, if 107 hp is just a matter of swapping a head an intake and exhaust that sounds like a quick way to make a 15 sec. daily driver in a 1600lb car.I'd be happy there for a while anyway,while I work on my million other projects.As for going turbo yes maybe a long time from now but I gotta get the chevelle and some other stuff finished first.I shouldn't really be messing with this but if I can spend a few days here and there to get me into 15s I just can't resist

[Rick the Quick]

Rick, if your engine came out of a '91 Mazda 323 is it not a 16 valve B6ME? I realize it is short of your 100+ hp goal but as far as getting more out of it I think you would be better off looking for a B8 or BP engine. You mentioned that you are not far from Kansas City and I would imagine literally millions of cheap cars. The last time I was in Chicago there were two Escort GT's on Craigs List with BP engines and 5 speeds for $200. They both were not drivable because of rust issues. For all the trouble of modifying a B6 I think you would be better off with finding a complete B6D (dohc) , B8 or BP. I don't think there are any hotter factory versions of the B6. Mazda built the B6D and B6T's for the enthusiasts. As for putting a dohc head on your block I believe it can be done. Obviously you will need to look into it further. When I bought my B6ME it was because the $200 Festiva I bought to serve as a daily driver needed an engine immediately. I wanted to find a B8ME but couldn't find a decent one at a moments notice. One yard was having a going out of business sale and had two B6ME's to choose from. The one I bought was extremely clean and when I got it home noticed the 53,xxx written on the side of it. Miles I would presume. After paying for the B6ME I asked the guy if he would throw in another engine for $50. He thought about it for a moment and came back and said make it $100. I picked out a BP that came out of a Kia. It had a 3 wire TPS so I know it is out of a stick shift car. The BP is dirty looking and I would not want to install it without going through it first. Also I do believe it needs to move forward a couple inches to clear the firewall. Moving the engine forward is good for traction btw. Sorry for running on, just want to illustrate that for simplicity (you said you were a busy guy) the B6ME was a good choice because I was walking. If I had time which I hope to soon, the BP would be my choice. Any B6 you put in a Festiva will be a huge upgrade from the B3. Good luck brother!

[TominMO]

Rick, if your engine came out of a '91 Mazda 323 is it not a 16 valve B6ME? I realize it is short of your 100+ hp goal but as far as getting more out of it I think you would be better off looking for a B8 or BP engine. You mentioned that you are not far from Kansas City and I would imagine literally millions of cheap cars. The last time I was in Chicago there were two Escort GT's on Craigs List with BP engines and 5 speeds for $200. They both were not drivable because of rust issues. For all the trouble of modifying a B6 I think you would be better off with finding a complete B6D (dohc) , B8 or BP. I don't think there are any hotter factory versions of the B6. Mazda built the B6D and B6T's for the enthusiasts. As for putting a dohc head on your block I believe it can be done. Obviously you will need to look into it further. When I bought my B6ME it was because the $200 Festiva I bought to serve as a daily driver needed an engine immediately. I wanted to find a B8ME but couldn't find a decent one at a moments notice. One yard was having a going out of business sale and had two B6ME's to choose from. The one I bought was extremely clean and when I got it home noticed the 53,xxx written on the side of it. Miles I would presume. After paying for the B6ME I asked the guy if he would throw in another engine for $50. He thought about it for a moment and came back and said make it $100. I picked out a BP that came out of a Kia. It had a 3 wire TPS so I know it is out of a stick shift car. The BP is dirty looking and I would not want to install it without going through it first. Also I do believe it needs to move forward a couple inches to clear the firewall. Moving the engine forward is good for traction btw. Sorry for running on, just want to illustrate that for simplicity (you said you were a busy guy) the B6ME was a good choice because I was walking. If I had time which I hope to soon, the BP would be my choice. Any B6 you put in a Festiva will be a huge upgrade from the B3. Good luck brother!

The '91 323 motor is an 8-valve, making 83 crank HP. Still a nice upgrade from the 1.3. I would recommend the Capri DOHC 1.6 over the B8 or BP just because the 1.8s have a longer block and you need to bang on the pass. side engine bay to get it in there.

Pretty sure the DOHC head is not a bolt-on to the 1.6 SOHC block, but could be wrong. Possibly it is for the gen2 motor he has.

[shorestiva]

16v head bolts on but the 8v pistons don't have valve reliefs in the right places.

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[Rick the Quick]

Here's a picture of one of the pistons out of the 1.3 that I blew up on the long 2 mile journey to my house from the sellers house. Oh the Festiva?......it runs fine just needs a battery.....no lady it needed an engine. What do you want for $200? What's up with the 3 valve reliefs? Is there a Mazda 12 valve that I don't know about? Tom, I agree the Capri DOHC is a great choice. I would imagine the B8 and BP are more plentiful and we all know these engines are getting harder to find in turn key condition. As for banging on the passenger side of the engine bay it's no different then banging on the firewall. Any way you look at it there's not a lot of room under the hood. It's all how creative we are. I remember hearing something about a damn kid putting a KLZE V-6 in his Festiva.

[shorestiva]

Look at the valve placement on a 8v head. If it didn't have 3 valve reliefs cylinders 1-2 would require a different piston than cyl 3-4.

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[Rick the Quick]

Thanks shore!

[ricko1966]

What head do I need? Are pistons available? Is there enough meat in the 8v pistons to cut reliefs. what other bits and pieces will I need .I am going to run it as is until I aquire the parts.Thanks!!!

16v head bolts on but the 8v pistons don't have valve reliefs in the right places.

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[FoMoCoMotion]

Cheap enough if you don't intend to use boost: DNJ P463 Std size Compl. Piston Set for 94-97 Kia Mazda 1.6L P463 http://r.ebay.com/ZutruF $63.79

[shorestiva]

If you're swapping to a dohc head you're better off just swapping a complete dohc engine.

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[ricko1966]

If you're swapping to a dohc head you're better off just swapping a complete dohc engine.

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If I find a complete running as is DOHC engine in the right price range not too far away I may go that way but if I see a DOHC engine in the boneyard which year/model do I want to yank the head off of, and what else should I pull that I can transport in the back of a festy.