1992 Festiva Project Car

[i218127]

Got a set of drilled and slotted rotors the other day. They ran about $30.00 each. Could have gotten a regular set from NAPA for about $15.00 each. But, those would be OEM types. Got a set of good pads too. I've replaced the rear brakes some time ago because I couldn't find drilled rotors at a price I thought was right. Will give these a go and report later.

Big Bear, a popular ski resort, is close by. Getting there is not bad, but coming back down the hill can be murder on brakes. I've lost two (2) sets on that hill. (Other cars) I want to go up and do some fishing. When it's 110F here, it's only 90F there! And the cool breezes are outstanding !!

"Drive On... ARMY"

[perucho]

One other thing concerning nitrogen...the molecule is larger and it won't leak out as fast as air

Thanks for the chemistry lesson wolgy but air is NOT a molecule! Air is a mixture of gases with about 78% being nitrogen and 20% oxygen. Yes, oxygen molecules are smaller. Yes, 100% nitrogen would be more stable due to displacing oxygen molecules and water vapor. But if you check your tire pressure regularly, it should not matter. Sorry, I've tired both and felt no noticeable difference, even in racing conditions.

On a separate note, i218127 do you have aspire brakes? Cheap cross drilled rotors fail (they crack between the holes). I hope yours don't do that but just one thing to be aware of.

[i218127]

Thanks for information. It's just an experiment. If I don't like'em, I'll take'em off.

As for Nitrogen...Different Strokes etc, etc, etc........

Haven't had time to put on the new brakes. Will try to do it tomorrow, 3 March 2010.

Any one know the rev limit on a 1.3 FI?? Think I hit it running an Audi A4, 3.0 in the mountains. I was on his tail and he zapped inside passing another car. He then blasted to the outside thinking I couldn't pass. I stayed inside and ran away. I could tell he was "all in it" trying to catch me. His Audi didn't handle as well as mine, nor could he power out of the curves like me. After several turns, he just gave up. However, when we got to flat land, he shot pass me at about 100. He was proving a point. I didn't care. My car cost a few hundred, his...well...somewhat more.

"Drive On... ARMY"

[eurotiva]

Thanks for information. It's just an experiment. If I don't like'em, I'll take'em off.

As for Nitrogen...Different Strokes etc, etc, etc........

Haven't had time to put on the new brakes. Will try to do it tomorrow, 3 March 2010.

Any one know the rev limit on a 1.3 FI?? Think I hit it running an Audi A4, 3.0 in the mountains. I was on his tail and he zapped inside passing another car. He then blasted to the outside thinking I couldn't pass. I stayed inside and ran away. I could tell he was "all in it" trying to catch me. His Audi didn't handle as well as mine, nor could he power out of the curves like me. After several turns, he just gave up. However, when we got to flat land, he shot pass me at about 100. He was proving a point. I didn't care. My car cost a few hundred, his...well...somewhat more.

"Drive On... ARMY"

Mine hit a rev limiter around 6000.

[i218127]

Thought it would stop at 6400. Tach equiped Festivas read that high don't they ??
My Mazda 6 only limits when I go to the end of the red line. Shouldn't this one too??

Frankly...I didn't think a car with over 205K miles would rev that high. (And stay in one piece!!)

"Drive On...ARMY"

[sodikartracer]

i have no idea what the rev limit is on the festiva as i dont have a tach, but i dont think it will do any damge to the engine i you accidentally hit it, the only time you need to worry about over revving is on downshifts because there is no rev limiter.

[DriverOne]

i have no idea what the rev limit is on the festiva as i dont have a tach, but i dont think it will do any damge to the engine i you accidentally hit it, the only time you need to worry about over revving is on downshifts because there is no rev limiter.

I stay upwards of 5K RPM when I'm playing with the rich kids during shifts. It plays around well up there, and I tend to get looks of "Huh?!" and while your 205K Festy has me on mileage, you also have me on performance, and I haven't even hit the 100,000 mark (or so I believe, it's what the mile gauge says, but MAN that car's body is falling apart! I need arotisserie.).

EDIT: We need to have a thread for just the Nitrogen argument. It seems to take over all threads concerning anything when one of us simply mentions the word.

[i218127]

I understand your frustration concerning Nitrogen. There's no way to win. Some people like "blue", and others can stand it. Even good data will not do it! We just have to say: If you like it... you'll use it. If you don't...you'll not.

Thought about the limiter all last night. Remembered I had an old Festiva Tech Cluster outside. Looking at it, the redline starts at 6200 RPM and runs out at 8000. I think the 7000 to 8000 range isn't possible in a normal engine. So, that leaves 6200 to 7000.

Having worked with engineers for many years, they like some "head room" between the absolute max (destruction) and a "safe" maximum. 10% is the general rule. 10% of 7000 is about 6300to 6400 RPM. Considering that the tech guage runs slow, averaging about 100 RPM slower that actual engine speed, they would "start a warning" at about 6400 RPM.

Higher setting than 6500 risks destruction, higher warrantee rates and invites car floggings by the customer.

Starting the warning at 6000 negates the need for a redline.

When young, getting above 6200 is resonable. When they become "old farts"...it's harder.

Purely guesswork of course.


"Drive On...ARMY"

[i218127]

I understand your frustration concerning Nitrogen. There's no way to win. Some people like "blue", and others can stand it. Even good data will not do it! We just have to say: If you like it... you'll use it. If you don't...you'll not.

Thought about the limiter all last night. Remembered I had an old Festiva Tech Cluster outside. Looking at it, the redline starts at 6200 RPM and runs out at 8000. I think the 7000 to 8000 range isn't possible in a normal engine. So, that leaves 6200 to 7000.

Having worked with engineers for many years, they like some "head room" between the absolute max (destruction) and a "safe" maximum. 10% is the general rule. 10% of about 7000 is 6300 to 6400 RPM. Considering that the tech guage runs slow, averaging about 100 RPM slower than actual engine speed, they would "start a warning" at about 6400 RPM.

Settings higher than 6500 risks destruction, higher warrantee rates and invites car floggings by the customer.

Starting the warning at 6000 negates the need for a redline. (Eye candy)

When young, getting above 6200 is resonable. When they become "old farts"...it's harder.

Purely guesswork of course.


"Drive On...ARMY"

[ShagFestiva]

I have hit a little over 6k rpm a few times and everything seems normal. My car has 248k on the clock but it runs suprisingly strong. I took Tomino's advice and drilled holes in the bottom piece of the airbox, and it seems to help in the higher rpm range.

[i218127]

Thanks for the info !!! More air has to help.

"Drive On...ARMY"

[i218127]

Oh!! ....Anyone have experience with a cold air package on a Festiva?? Measured results?? "Seat of the pants feel"??


"Drive On...ARMY"

[i218127]

231,500 miles

Still running good. Went to Iridium plugs set at .044. timing set at about 10 degrees and a smig...

Rediscovered the differences in after market PCV valves. I took out my old one , cleaned it and reinstalled it some time ago. Wanting to do a little better, I bought a new PCV valve. Installed it. Loss of horsepower, Replaced it with another brand, same thing. After going through three brands, went back to the old part. Discover it was an original Morotcraft EV141, These are distinguished by being black on the top and FORD Blue on the bottom. I remember I had this problem before with other cars and that many after market valves are slightly different.

Recomendations based on personnel experience only: If you have the motorcraft part, black top/Blue bottom, clean it and keep it!! I have not found a better valve than this one. Controlling blow-by gasses becomes more important as your car gets older. Cleaning your vale often can improve performance, as it did in my case, and lead to better gas mileage.

( I bought the last EV141 in stock at ROCK AUTO)

Just a thought.

i218127