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  • #16
    Some like to do them on the car so the rack is held in place while they are removing them, but I prfer to have it out myself. Therev are two different tools that can be used to remove them made by Lisle tools, the first being a "universal" type part # 46600 that uses 3 set screws to grab the flats on the end to remove it. The second they make is a set part # 45750 which uses the crows feet adapters to grab the flats.
    I prefer to do a spare rack, myself, and swap it out, but that is because they can still be a real pain to get loose from the rack because of either a locking compound that was applied, or galvonic corrosion that happened due to unlike metals "welding" them onto the rack. I never have figured out which one it is for certain.
    Also keep in mind that early cars have washer that were folded over to "lock" it in place, and later cars had roll pins installled that will likely have to be drilled out. Ther are also different pitch threads between the two racks, one course, other fine threads.

    HTH

    Michael
    Have owned 9 so far
    White 89 L converted to LX "The Curmudgeon" Being a Curmudgeon right now.
    Blue 89 L converted to LX "Shtinky" FMS crate engine,cam,flywheel,hail dents
    Smurf Blue 90 LX "Smurffy" He Ran Away From Home!!!!!! Says Willie loves him more than I did!
    Red 88 L converted to LX "Rasta, Mon" Now retired
    Where did all these @#*&%$ Toyotas come from around here?

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    • #17
      Originally posted by wrongfulleaf View Post
      No No......Inner tie rods
      Crap, sorry, that's what I get for submitting a reply at 3am. I didn't do my inners but yes, they are a differnent box of frogs. Refer to m715's post above.

      Sorry about the mix up.
      If a hammer doesn't fix it you have an electrical problem




      WWZD
      Zulu Ministries

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      • #18
        Originally posted by m715 View Post
        Some like to do them on the car so the rack is held in place while they are removing them, but I prfer to have it out myself. Therev are two different tools that can be used to remove them made by Lisle tools, the first being a "universal" type part # 46600 that uses 3 set screws to grab the flats on the end to remove it. The second they make is a set part # 45750 which uses the crows feet adapters to grab the flats.
        I prefer to do a spare rack, myself, and swap it out, but that is because they can still be a real pain to get loose from the rack because of either a locking compound that was applied, or galvonic corrosion that happened due to unlike metals "welding" them onto the rack. I never have figured out which one it is for certain.
        Also keep in mind that early cars have washer that were folded over to "lock" it in place, and later cars had roll pins installled that will likely have to be drilled out. Ther are also different pitch threads between the two racks, one course, other fine threads.

        HTH

        Michael
        Can I get a loaner of the two tools listed above at like Oreilly's? I know that they have loaner tools and I don't see paying $150 for tools I probably won't use after this project.
        :festiva::newb::festiva:

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