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  • restoring plastics

    tried cleaning up the plastics today, having some problems looking for advice

    theres a few spots on the dash that won't come off but i got the duct tape marks off from above the glove box

    the steering wheel ford decal and shifter knob are yellowed, any way to remove that?

    the steering column plastics have duct tape residue real bad and im not able to get it off

    any way to restore/refinish plastic that has undergone severe sun baking? glove box handle, seat base plastics, seat belt connectors, all rear panels. seems that the light gray plastics are a culprit.

    looking not to buy any parts at this time, so thanks, to any offers but not now. I've got a to do list that involves a motor, new windshield (started cracking from under the seal.. no chip wtf?) rear window (defroster grid is shot) then tint all the way around. after the tint goes up ill replace the plastics if i cant restore them as well as thoroughly clean the interior and swap anything that isn't restore-able

    also what product will give off the best, shiniest new car look, for the plastics that are still decent?

    sorry pics are too big to show on here, make sure your browser does automatic image resizing (firefox, IE, automatically does it i believe)






    Last edited by MTec007; 03-22-2010, 06:08 PM.

  • #2
    Goo Gone for Adhesive sticky.
    I will try to get you the name of a made for plastics paint I used.
    Your Auto store should know.
    Aspires and Sways all around, Miata B6 installed, KYB G2Rs just installed in front. Wish for coil overs someday.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by MTec007 View Post
      the steering wheel ford decal and shifter knob are yellowed, any way to remove that?
      I took one of my Ford steering wheel centers and put some waxing compound on it and ran it over a buffing wheel, it shined it up.

      As for the plastics turning yellow there is not much you can do about it. I cleaned my plastics from my '89 really good then use some Wax and Grease remover, then painted them and it looked good, but I don't know how long it will stay on them because it wasn't a plastic paint.
      '90 LX

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      • #4
        i just scrub my rear panels and other plastic with soap and water real good.
        then i painted them with bumper paint by dupli-color product no.fb109
        but i first sprayed them with dupli-color adhesion promoter. now they look almost new
        1992 black GL
        1991 white GL
        1991 blue L parts car
        1992 blue L from Japan R.H.D.
        1948 ford conv. hot rod

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        • #5
          Originally posted by hotrodin4me View Post
          i just scrub my rear panels and other plastic with soap and water real good.
          then i painted them with bumper paint by dupli-color product no.fb109
          but i first sprayed them with dupli-color adhesion promoter. now they look almost new
          That's what I did with mine as well. As for the emblem in the center of the steering wheel, I put a bat decal over mine. But you probably don't want to do that.:p

          I second the waxing compound idea, sounds like a winner. I've also used a combination of waxing compound with a pinch of oxy clean powder thrown in, and found that to be very effective in removing paint smears from bike plastics.

          Dumb thieves go to prison, smart ones go to work for the Government.

          1988 L - 232K miles Batstiva
          1989 L - 247K miles Slick
          1990 L - 281K miles Orphan Annie
          Let the hoarding begin!! :mrgreen:

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          • #6
            For tape residue I've used Goof Off and Goo Gone. Both work well.

            For the shifter and steering wheel emblems I use fine rubbing compound first, followed by polishing compound and then some wax.

            For the plastic it's a little more work. If you can scratch it with your fingernail and it powders then it's oxidized by the sun. I had this problem on mine. The best (but not the easiest way) I've found is to sand off the oxidation. I usually start with a coarse grade (100 grit) to knock off the big stuff and then go progressively finer (180-320 grit) until I get down to good plastic and feather everything in so it all blends smoothly. After that I wash it with soap and water and then paint it with Dupli-Color interior paint. You can also use Krylon Fusion since they have more color choices.
            If a hammer doesn't fix it you have an electrical problem




            WWZD
            Zulu Ministries

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            • #7
              all this talk of paint, will i get a nice looking finish if i choose to use black paint? will it stay nice? i dont want it to end up looking like crap and then you just cant really cover up black paint. this goes all the way around, the good plastic and the oxidized plastic as well

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              • #8
                Black (unless it's flat) will be more prone to show imperfections. IMO it's best to stay with lighter neutral colors if the base you're painting isn't in great shape.

                Also, the Dupli-Color interior paint is pretty durable in my experience.
                If a hammer doesn't fix it you have an electrical problem




                WWZD
                Zulu Ministries

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                • #9
                  well my "theme" if you will, is planned out for black on outside and black/red inside... so this throws a tree right in my path.. i was hoping black was going to be a good cover up

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                  • #10
                    Do a test piece and see how it turns out. If it doesn't work then shoot some primer over it and try something else
                    If a hammer doesn't fix it you have an electrical problem




                    WWZD
                    Zulu Ministries

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Zanzer View Post
                      For tape residue I've used Goof Off and Goo Gone. Both work well.

                      For the shifter and steering wheel emblems I use fine rubbing compound first, followed by polishing compound and then some wax.

                      For the plastic it's a little more work. If you can scratch it with your fingernail and it powders then it's oxidized by the sun. I had this problem on mine. The best (but not the easiest way) I've found is to sand off the oxidation. I usually start with a coarse grade (100 grit) to knock off the big stuff and then go progressively finer (180-320 grit) until I get down to good plastic and feather everything in so it all blends smoothly. After that I wash it with soap and water and then paint it with Dupli-Color interior paint. You can also use Krylon Fusion since they have more color choices.
                      The Krylon plastic paint works well. I used it on all my plastics. I only did two coats (due to time and money) and they are still holding up really well and look basically new.

                      If you go with brighter colors then you'll have to spend a little more time smoothing out the plastics. Versus more neutral colors cover up scratches pretty well.
                      -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                      Nancy- 1.8L BP, aspire swap, g-trans
                      The Adventures of Nancy! Build Thread
                      -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

                      My Musica! Click me!

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                      • #12
                        how much krylon would do an entire car's plastic?

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                        • #13
                          3 cans... i did it.

                          anyway, if you're set on black, get some satin black. it'll look factory then.
                          Trees aren't kind to me...

                          currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
                          94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

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                          • #14
                            3 cans? that doesnt seem like it would have enough to go all the way around.. hmm might order 4 to be safe

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                            • #15
                              The more you order the more coats you can do the more you do the better and longer it will last. I bought 4 and did all the plastics. So 4+ will get the job done. You can buy them at walmart to and I'm sure other places that's just where I got it.
                              -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                              Nancy- 1.8L BP, aspire swap, g-trans
                              The Adventures of Nancy! Build Thread
                              -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

                              My Musica! Click me!

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