Started pulling the tach cluster out so I can change the mileage on it, and the damn cable (Not the cover) is jammed into the speedo gear, I don't want to pull it too hard, because I don't want to have to order another cable, but it used to just slide out. How is that even possible when it is keyed?
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Last edited by TorqueEffect; 06-14-2013, 01:54 PM.1991 Ford Festiva BP (Full Aspire/Rio Swap) (337k Miles) (Around 95k Engine)
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport 2.2L DOHC Ecotec (Threw a Rod)
1998 Chevy Monte Carlo LS 3.1 V6 (225k miles) Best MPG = 28
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Originally posted by TorqueEffect View PostStarted pulling the tach cluster out so I can change the mileage on it, and the damn cable (Not the cover) is jammed into the speedo gear, I don't want to pull it too hard, because I don't want to have to order another cable, but it used to just slide out. How is that even possible when it is keyed?
James says, "Hate on it."Est. 1989 "Bringing laughter and festiva awesomeness to the world since birth" banana time
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Now I found out the orange tach cluster are built different from the white ones, instead of using meltable plastic, they used friggin' metal to hold the odometer tumbler in.
Looks like I may just have too hook a drill up to it to get it to over 300k miles. Who knows how long That will take from only 150k.Last edited by TorqueEffect; 06-14-2013, 02:15 PM.1991 Ford Festiva BP (Full Aspire/Rio Swap) (337k Miles) (Around 95k Engine)
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport 2.2L DOHC Ecotec (Threw a Rod)
1998 Chevy Monte Carlo LS 3.1 V6 (225k miles) Best MPG = 28
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Originally posted by TorqueEffect View PostNow I found out the orange tach cluster are built different from the white ones, instead of using meltable plastic, they used friggin' metal to hold the odometer tumbler in.
Looks like I may just have too hook a drill up to it to get it to over 300k miles. Who knows how long That will take from only 150k.
James says, "Hate on it."Est. 1989 "Bringing laughter and festiva awesomeness to the world since birth" banana time
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After seeing a few posts, and hearing my friends who mod miatas rave about plastidip. I tried some on my grille/ hood. It is pretty I retesting stuff given its not permanent unless you want it to be. Did a little test run, and I've learned. If you plan on using the stuff, it doesn't work just like rattle cans. You gotta layer it on thick to where it seems like its gonna run, but it'll dry flat since its actually a sprayable latex. Layer it on thick! But here is a pic for y'all to see how it came out.
image.jpg
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Nope, not doing the drill, drill only makes the speedo go up to 75MPH, and to get to 309k miles, I would literally would have to have the drill running at max speed for MONTHS straight.
The drill wouldn't survive it, and not worth the electricity.1991 Ford Festiva BP (Full Aspire/Rio Swap) (337k Miles) (Around 95k Engine)
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport 2.2L DOHC Ecotec (Threw a Rod)
1998 Chevy Monte Carlo LS 3.1 V6 (225k miles) Best MPG = 28
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Looks like about 83 days ((150,000 / 75) / 24)
I took one apart and reset it but didn't get everything put back together right and now the odometer doesn't increase at all.
I'ts not all that hard to take apart but getting all the little wheels set back to the right place without breaking anything is tricky.Last edited by 1990new; 06-14-2013, 03:11 PM.
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A little piece of heaven today
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www.facebook.com/rhodestiva ;
rhodestiva@gmail.com ;
http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=44851
http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/album.php?albumid=419
'92 Festiva L M/T
'93 Festiva GL A/T
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Originally posted by 1990new View PostLooks like about 83 days ((150,000 / 75) / 24)
I took one apart and reset it but didn't get everything put back together right and now the odometer doesn't increase at all.
I'ts not all that hard to take apart but getting all the little wheels set back to the right place without breaking anything is tricky.
What I did because everything looked so fragile, and I didn't want to try and force off the tumbler bar, so what I did was wedge a small flathead screwdriver between each number and it's key to move the key away from the number as much as possible away without breaking anything, and kinda forced the numbers to rotate, you just rotate it until the desired number is straight on the face of the cluster, and wiggle it back and forth till it pops back completely into the key, just repeat for each digit.
I may tear open my worthless speedo cluster and demonstrate this method on video as if it were a Orange Tach cluster, concept should be exactly the same.
But first things first, I have to see if any digits besides the single digit moves, but I do believe that it works.Last edited by TorqueEffect; 06-14-2013, 04:51 PM.1991 Ford Festiva BP (Full Aspire/Rio Swap) (337k Miles) (Around 95k Engine)
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport 2.2L DOHC Ecotec (Threw a Rod)
1998 Chevy Monte Carlo LS 3.1 V6 (225k miles) Best MPG = 28
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!@#$!@#$!@#$!@#$!!!!!!!!!
The back light for the cluster is no longer working unless I tap into a different ground, but then the dimmer is useless.
*smashes head into wall repeatedly*1991 Ford Festiva BP (Full Aspire/Rio Swap) (337k Miles) (Around 95k Engine)
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport 2.2L DOHC Ecotec (Threw a Rod)
1998 Chevy Monte Carlo LS 3.1 V6 (225k miles) Best MPG = 28
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Yep, I have no idea what is wrong, something to do with the circuit board is being funky.
I have traced the fault to the ground, but I can't find a break anywhere in the trace on the board, even where I might suspect a problem (namely areas where the screw driver slipped and scrapped some of the coating off the trace, I soldered in some wires to jump over those, and still nothing. The bulbs still look good, so they are not the issue.
I am completely stumped. Anyone have a circuit board out of a dead orange tach cluster they would like to donate?
EDIT: Well I didn't bother to look before, but I just noticed the lights behind the blower controls are not illuminating. I would think a fuse, but I already pulled the meter fuse and it was just fine, interior fuse is fine because the radio still hold the time, and the dome light works.
So either there is faulty wiring, or the dimmer switch just decided to fail. FML, I can never have everything working properly in my car at one time can I?Last edited by TorqueEffect; 06-15-2013, 12:42 AM.1991 Ford Festiva BP (Full Aspire/Rio Swap) (337k Miles) (Around 95k Engine)
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport 2.2L DOHC Ecotec (Threw a Rod)
1998 Chevy Monte Carlo LS 3.1 V6 (225k miles) Best MPG = 28
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Originally posted by frankenfester View PostAlso, this size corrects the mph on the speedo, according to my gps that im running right beside it (just to make sure)
Also its pouring the rain here in western NC and they handle amazingly! !!
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Yes! It's awesome!
Got mine aligned today, it's now drivable. :lol: It was downright dangerous before.
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