kia motor and tranny swap

[lil red rocket]

Hmmm.....

[gauge_half_inch]

I don't think the sephia ever had a bus com system. KIA was a little slow on that aspect.

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I went and looked at the car today, the body and interior are in rough shape, it's definately not something I would fix and drive.

The big thing is the clutch, it's a hydraulic clutch. Is it possible to put a cable clutch in the "bell housing" and delete the hydraulic stuff?

I have access to a 2002 Kia Rio 5 speed transmission in the JY, would it be easier to just use that transmission, or would it even be worth it? I'm assuming it will swap, people swap g series from escorts into capris and miatas and proteges and vice versa right?

[juryrigger007]

They have "interference" engines, so be careful. I was snooping around one of the rio forums, and saw a picture of one that had lost its timing belt...

the photo took my breath away!

Beyond that, go for it! Take lots of pictures.

[boydg1]

.... Yeah, that's about the only thing I don't like besides the ECS.
.

They have "interference" engines, so be careful. I was snooping around one of the rio forums, and saw a picture of one that had lost its timing belt...

the photo took my breath away!

Beyond that, go for it! Take lots of pictures.

[zoom zoom]

What is it that determines wether an engine is interference or non interference?

Is it the valves, piston (grooves cut in), or the chamber volume in the head? Also, is it something I could fix.

Two things here are sure, I want an engine, and I'm going to rebuild it all the way to the main bearings and get as close to 10:1 compression ratio as I can. I think that's the magic number for the best low end response on 91 octane isn't it? Please, don't feel bad about reprimanding me, if something I say is off or doesn't make sense, I need to know..I've never built a motor before, but I'm going to this year. I just don't want to lose out on a chance for a bp motor, this is the first I have seen for sale in my area EVER(except mentals old car), and I check craigslist and the bulletin board weekly, at the same time, I don't want to waste 400$

I think I could get 100-200 for it at the JY, or as scrap after I take the stuff I want, but as far as parts go, I don't know what I could or couldn't part out, the interior is shot and it needs a paint job.

[boydg1]

.... If the valve timing is off, the piston collides with the valves and wrecks the engine internally.:eeeeeek:

.... Festie's valves wont reach the pistons regardless of the valve timing.

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What is it that determines wether an engine is interference or non interference?

Is it the valves, piston (grooves cut in), or the chamber volume in the head? Also, is it something I could fix.

Two things here are sure, I want an engine, and I'm going to rebuild it all the way to the main bearings and get as close to 10:1 compression ratio as I can. I think that's the magic number for the best low end response on 91 octane isn't it? Please, don't feel bad about reprimanding me, if something I say is off or doesn't make sense, I need to know..I've never built a motor before, but I'm going to this year. I just don't want to lose out on a chance for a bp motor, this is the first I have seen for sale in my area EVER(except mentals old car), and I check craigslist and the bulletin board weekly, at the same time, I don't want to waste 400$

I think I could get 100-200 for it at the JY, or as scrap after I take the stuff I want, but as far as parts go, I don't know what I could or couldn't part out, the interior is shot and it needs a paint job.

[boydg1]

.... I personally would wont a 9.5:1 to 10:1 ratio as far as compression ratio goes. You can handle just about any one's fuel at the pumps that way and still get decent performance. What I would strive for is a compression balance across all four cylinders (tough to do).
.

What is it that determines wether an engine is interference or non interference?

Is it the valves, piston (grooves cut in), or the chamber volume in the head? Also, is it something I could fix.

Two things here are sure, I want an engine, and I'm going to rebuild it all the way to the main bearings and get as close to 10:1 compression ratio as I can. I think that's the magic number for the best low end response on 91 octane isn't it? Please, don't feel bad about reprimanding me, if something I say is off or doesn't make sense, I need to know..I've never built a motor before, but I'm going to this year. I just don't want to lose out on a chance for a bp motor, this is the first I have seen for sale in my area EVER(except mentals old car), and I check craigslist and the bulletin board weekly, at the same time, I don't want to waste 400$

I think I could get 100-200 for it at the JY, or as scrap after I take the stuff I want, but as far as parts go, I don't know what I could or couldn't part out, the interior is shot and it needs a paint job.

[Movin]

The BP-ZE may become an interference engine, you need to measure the difference
when you increase the compression ratio. Ditto if you change cams for more power.

[zoom zoom]

I understand what interference is, but what is it that determines wether they will contact or not? Thickness of the piston? The travel length of the valves when they open? Is the piston just not cut with grooves like the bp motors?

Aside from that, I'm not concerned with octane rating, it won't be a daily driver anyway, but it's better to increase the ring land area to help dissapate heat, so I figure if I get it bored out a little with thicker rings it would also be a boost in low end torque, I am not sure about the head yet, i don't know what's available as far as cams go, or what would be best for this application..

[FestYboy]

interferance measurement is determined by the differance (+ or -) of the piston to deck hight and valve protrusion above the head deck minus the gasket compressed thickness and piston valve clearance.

10:1 compression can be run on 87 octane easily (the new mustang is 11:1 and runs 87 though at reduced power, but still...). you want to avoid thicker rings, but increasing COMPRESSION HIGHT can help with lower ring temps. Realy though i would go with a small compression hight for better sealing and less chance of deposits. either way, you're looking at custom or at least NEW pistons.

[zoom zoom]

I looked on rockauto and the part numbers are 1 digit apart for mazda 1.8L and kias 1.8L, the obvious difference in the pics show the piston is cut deeper to allow valve clearance, I don't know if it would interchange, but that's the difference I see. What I'm seeing from this book I'm looking at is that a 10:1 compression ratio allows the intercooler to do its job more efficiently at lower boost pressure, and higher compression = better low end, which is more power before a turbo kicks in, and better daily driving gas milage.

[nitrofarm]

I looked on rockauto and the part numbers are 1 digit apart for mazda 1.8L and kias 1.8L, the obvious difference in the pics show the piston is cut deeper to allow valve clearance, I don't know if it would interchange, but that's the difference I see. What I'm seeing from this book I'm looking at is that a 10:1 compression ratio allows the intercooler to do its job more efficiently at lower boost pressure, and higher compression = better low end, which is more power before a turbo kicks in, and better daily driving gas milage.

Zoom,I know you know this but dont assume that stock photo's are the actual part.

[zoom zoom]

Yah I was just thinking, that's all hypothetical right now anyway.. I've been thinking about it, and they're giving 200-230/ton for cars at the crusher.. so (this is a guess) if the engine weighs 300 lbs and the tranny weighs 150, that's 450, and the curb weight is 2478, that's still a ton, after the wiring harness and whatever else I yank off the car I'll probably still get 150-200 back.. so 200$ for my parts, unless there's a chance I could sell anything else off the car, it has 4x100 14" steeles I'll probably end up swapping for my 13" steelies on my aspire, the tread on the tires looked pretty good..

I was talking to a friend, and we came to the conclusion it's probably the slave cylinder.. he had to drive the car home, and get it push started by jamming it in gear after pushing it for a couple miles home after the petal went out. so if he could get it to go, the clutch itself/pressure plate/t.o. bearing and all that junk is probably still good.

after looking on the kia forums, I'm pretty scared of the timing belt/interference issue, but with a new timing belt, I don't think i'll have anything to worry about. I think I might go ahead and get this car, maybe fix it, maybe not, if a real bp shows itself in the next couple months i'll sell the car for what I can get and use that instead, maybe..who knows, but I don't want to pass this up and end up with no bp motor to work with at all. if anything it will keep me from being bored

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Just don't know.. things have come about and I'm not sure I'm gonna buy it. just doesn't feel right. It will be a lesson for my fiance tho if I end up spending twice what I was going to pay for this for another car just like it in 2 months. whatever.