Doors freeze shut easily; wipers age too!

[bobstad]

I'm not too often bothered here in Bellingham on the north end of Puget Sound on the waterfront; but, enough so that this problem has me again having to admit, as per usual procrastination, goofing off and doing nothing, embarrasses me for the government ward and dependent I've greatly become in some ways.

What happens is whenever the temperature drops enough below freezing, there is no way to get the doors open on the beloved '91 Festiva L. The rubber gaskets around the doors get frozen stuck, so I just wait for the temperature to raise up enough they will release. If there were an emergency the first thing I'd try would be hot water; though then if really cold that would be refreeze soon, maybe with me inside!

I've been imagining that this must be a common enough problem, so that long ago folks have figured out various ways to keep this from occurring. Before I start to experiment, I thought I'd ask to see if anyone has a good method and/ or methods to keep ahead of this? Or, if one is thus confronted and really needs to drive no matter what; how to manage to unstick a door without too much difficulty during or after?

I've been guessing there should be an all-around "perfect" procedure, right? Something I can apply to the gasket surface, both preventing that from sticking to the painted metal surface which the gasket rests upon; as well as being a product neither harmful nor too messy either...also inexpensive and/or even readily obtainable I might already have on hand.

Or perhaps a good cleaning might suffice? I keep around a pint of namptha which works great for lots of things since no oily residue is left, while also drying fairly quickly with a good solvent action...the same thing as lighter fluid, I've recently discovered.

If I hunted around, I'm even pretty sure I'd find some Armor-All stuff which is supposed to be used on rubber or vinyl; though a pretty big project around here, meaning I'll have to start pulling boxes off of shelves, I'd have to access in the first place by standing on a kitchen chair. I'll probably get those boxes out since they've not been looked through in over a year or maybe two; once this is posted, to get a good idea of what I've got to chose from.

Asking first seems a little wiser; just in case I might find for instance, that the same peanut oil I use to make popcorn with could be effective? Plus, I always like saving those speciality stashes like the Armor-All which is a free sample, for the proverbial rainy day; as if I were T. H. Lawrence setting out to cross the Empty Quarter.

I also have a good assortment of various oil based type lubricants; so imagine putting one of those on a piece of tissue paper, could be good to run over the surface of the rubber door gasket?

The best thing would be something which would last awhile after a treatment; like good dentistry, as opposed to what the government limited a person to in Washington state until recently when they ran out of money for even second rate care...reasoning like the right-wing reactionary bureaucracy this place is, if I can budget to buy decent care I shouldn't be getting assistance.

Which reminds me now, of the wiper blades; and my curiosity as to whether or not they can be treated or cleaned to renew them somewhat? The last pair I got are special ones made aerodynamically to keep from chattering or lifting off as the car goes faster, which I've often had some problems with above about 55 mph.

They weren't cheap, so making them last a long time is worthwhile; and I think that they may seem to've deteriorated worse than they actually have, from sitting without much use often times.

I drove to Portland, OR from here near the Canadian border on December 18th, and by the time I'd gotten back after driving south from here to below Salem, OR December 10th also; the wipers finally seem to be working a lot better than at first. Over twelve hundred miles since December 11th to the 19th; sort of the patterns I have often, of feast or famine.

I've even thought of sanding material from the blade surface which touches the windshield; which should give a like new condition if the material is consistent and only the surface areas age rapidly.

[rollertoaster]

Cleaning the door seals with alcohol then coating with a light coat of silicon spray should take care of your freezing issue. You will have to re-apply more often in your area due to the wet winter season.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Charlie1717]

I had that issue but the bigger problem for me was first being able to actually unlock the door.
What do you guys recommend for frozen locks?
Then what about not being able to shut your door? How do you prevent that from happening?

[nonamekid]

Silicone spray will leave an oil residue on the rubber seal and that is what your looking for: something to keep the water off of them. I imagine petroleum jelly would give the same effect.

As for the wipers: the rubber breaks down in sunlight and from use as they are bent back and forth while going up and down the windshield. Some folks have had success with silicone wipers instead of rubber, but I have not seen the benefit. Silicone wipers are significantly more expensive and wear out with time also. If the wipers are chattering it could be do to the fact that the springs in the wiper arms are weak. Best option there is to replace them. There used to be a company that sold wiper arm spoilers, but I have seen them in awhile. Theory was that the spoiler would put pressure on the arm at higher speeds, preventing the wiper from jumping.

[nonamekid]

I had that issue but the bigger problem for me was first being able to actually unlock the door.
What do you guys recommend for frozen locks?
Then what about not being able to shut your door? How do you prevent that from happening?

Silicone spray in the locks: lubricates and repels water. Same goes for the latch. Just make sure they are not frozen at the time or it will do no good. Also auto parts stores used to sell something to unfreeze door locks that were frozen by water.

[Charlie1717]

Silicone spray in the locks: lubricates and repels water. Same goes for the latch. Just make sure they are not frozen at the time or it will do no good. Also auto parts stores used to sell something to unfreeze door locks that were frozen by water.

Good because I bought silicone spray today assuming that would be the best option :p I may have to get some of that spray stuff incase we get another ice storm and I still have to go to work :s

[bobstad]

Silicon is a valley somewhere, no?

Cleaning the door seals with alcohol then coating with a light coat of silicon spray should take care of your freezing issue. You will have to re-apply more often in your area due to the wet winter season.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm just curious about the silicon spray? Where this is best obtained, for instance.

And, if something I might buy without a spray device; since often that is a lot less expensive, with other sorts of things.

There is a large old hardware store here, which began over a hundred years ago for logging supplies; which probably has nearly everything. If they aren't too busy someone there should be able to give me good advice.

I guess I'm also wondering if there could be more homely alternatives; particularly less expensive ones?

I also wonder if the namptha would work as well as alcohol?

I'm imaging the same alcohol as fuel additive or rubbing alcohol; which should be essentially the same. Isopropyl alcohol, in other words.

I've always been sort of challenged about silicon types of technology; as a person who has been either brainwashed or perhaps reasonably believes in PermTex, rather than the later plastic type sealants. To tell the truth, neither seems to never work very good for me.

Not the same as what we are discussing here of course; but, where my intelligence drops off quickly. Thanks.

[bobstad]

This has always worked great!!!

I had that issue but the bigger problem for me was first being able to actually unlock the door.
What do you guys recommend for frozen locks?
Then what about not being able to shut your door? How do you prevent that from happening?

This works great on the '91 Festiva L.

I took the door locks out of the car; then loaded them with a lubricant made by Slick-50 sold at the Grocery Outlet; I assume is of the LPV type. They have gone through probably ten winters without any freezing since. I also tried to do the same to any other moving parts in the door mechanism, which could be bothered by freezing.

I think if I took the initiative, with lubricants and/or dielectric grease; the car would have many problems solved in advance. Where I get sort of stuck is with connectors I don't understand the design of; which discourage me from taking more of an initiative than I do.

[bobstad]

blades rap

Silicone spray will leave an oil residue on the rubber seal and that is what your looking for: something to keep the water off of them. I imagine petroleum jelly would give the same effect.

As for the wipers: the rubber breaks down in sunlight and from use as they are bent back and forth while going up and down the windshield. Some folks have had success with silicone wipers instead of rubber, but I have not seen the benefit. Silicone wipers are significantly more expensive and wear out with time also. If the wipers are chattering it could be do to the fact that the springs in the wiper arms are weak. Best option there is to replace them. There used to be a company that sold wiper arm spoilers, but I have seen them in awhile. Theory was that the spoiler would put pressure on the arm at higher speeds, preventing the wiper from jumping.

The type wipers I got are sold at nearly every auto parts store I looked at; which sell in a medium price range, neither the least expensive, also far from the highest prices too. They are very obviously aerodynamically designed; and state that on the packaging materials.

I'd look now except both dark and cold out; to be able to say which brand. I'm sure I've long since ditched the packaging materials, so could even have to go to an auto parts store to match what is on the car to what they sell; I remember getting the spring of '10 driving to a folk dance festival in Arcata, CA. [http://www.arcatafolkdancefestival.org/]

That was an amazing road trip in many ways; not least of all since I fasted two weeks from a toothache, which otherwise would've kept me home at the last minute.

I also hadn't been out on a long road trip for quite awhile, so remember I really ran up my overhead; despite not eating anything and also staying with friends so no money for lodging either. There are so many little things a person doesn't think about, like wipers for instance; which make a huge difference on the road if neglected, you are almost forced to renew, a person is glad to for the safety and greater relaxation, ease of mind, etc.


I've seen those after market blade spoilers; but, before those became unavailable as you say, I also found they wouldn't fit my wipers good enough to be effective. I've been pretty thoughtful about this, and the problem isn't in the springs on the wiper arms as far as I can tell; which the aerodynamic design blades solves well. The angle on the after-market spoilers, just didn't fit the Festiva correctly.

There are sold in truck stops strong wire devices which are fairly simple which act as springs, to make the blades stay on the windshield; but, these wouldn't fit the Festiva either.

The problem really seems to be that between the design of the wipers and the angle and shape of the windshield; this creates problems above about 55 mph or so, which progressively worsens as the speed increases: Which the aerodynamic blades I have greatly improves upon; to the point that there is really no problem. I'd seen other aerodynamic design blades in the same catalogue I ordered KYB strut covers out of; which were really expensive, the wiper blades, so that I didn't think seriously of buying them.

I did about thirty years ago, buy at a dollar store in Ukiah, CA a pair of wiper blades for a dollar for both, which are guaranteed for life; and that have lived up to that guarantee remarkably well. They are made of a red color material, with clear rather than black plastic frames; and the only problem was in using them on a '75 Chevy van I had from '94-'96, the second vehicle they were on.

This had a cracked windshield on one side, which damaged the wiper blade used on that side; though the other blade has continued to be as good as new, only suffering from the problem the aerodynamic blades solved. Which is what got me to thinking about trying to sand that blade the cracked windshield damaged.

I think the biggest worry would be in keeping a sharp edge on the blade where that meets the glass; so sanding without turning the blade edge, to keep from rounding that. The edge does need to be nearly perfect; so that for instance cutting off a thin strip was too difficult when I attempted that on another pair of wiper blades.

I think that from what I've found, by letting the blades continue to work without replacing them; that over time they've regained their effectiveness: Suggests strongly that there was some surface deterioration or even an accumulation from the atmosphere or specifically trees, which could be cleaned and/or removed by abrasive action and the washing of the heavy enough rains...not to mention cleaning the blades whenever I got gas. I'm also interested in the idea that wiper blades could suffer only deterioration on their surface areas; and/or, that aside from the surface areas, deterioration is much less. This could certainly vary from blade to blade, depending upon what they are made from; the quality, as well as types of materials.

I think one interesting story is that of Pond's Cold Cream, the stuff sold for removing make-up and to soften and moisten the skin. That used to be, the by far preferred stuff for trombonists to use on their trombone slides to make those fast and slick; which was used to give a light coating to the inner slide, which then was also kept wet with a spray bottle of water. Nothing worked better; and many was the conversation heard about how inferior the products actually made for the purpose were, as well as how much more expensive. You can imagine in theatrical situations too; that Pond's Cold Cream would often be available when nothing else was. This all changed however; when somehow the great advantage to trombonists was found out by the people who both manufacture Pond's Cold Cream and those who sold expensive alternatives to trombonists. The formula on Pond's Cold Cream was changed just enough so trombonists could no longer use that on their slides; who ever since have been forced to buy more expensive, as well as inferior alternatives.

I think that industry as well as humanity on a whole; suffers greatly from the habit of making of the consumer, the adversary of capitalism. If you consider what a truly infinitesimal category trombonists are, and how trite is getting a few extra bucks out of such a non-advantaged segment of society; imagine what lengths capitalists go to in getting money out of the rest of us.

Thus, my searches for the least expensive alternatives, does have a strong underlying motive; which I think must be at the heart of many a DIY philosophy, no?

[Movin]

with a little work the cheap refills fit into the expensive aero blade.
I still have my first set when those came out about 4 years ago
but I have about 5 refills now.

[bobstad]

could use winch & wench!

with a little work the cheap refills fit into the expensive aero blade.
I still have my first set when those came out about 4 years ago
but I have about 5 refills now.

Movin!

The paint job caught my eye; then I noticed...is that a winch!!!???

I was just thinking of changing back the front springs to stock instead of the FMS on the front; to be able to drive back roads with higher clearance, which the '91 Festiva was great for with the FMS springs on the back and stock on the front.

Have you posted anything about your winch?

That looks like a great idea; handy for getting stuck and no doubt much more too. The load of firewood is impressive too.

I sure am getting sick and tired of living in this town's apartment ghetto; with loads of local rednecks, and lots of Tea Party creeps around town trying to give me grief. Having a hidden cabin in the woods would suit me fine; me thinks.

[Bert]

In a pinch the fastest/easiest way to unfreeze a door or trunk lock is to heat the key warm as you can with a lighter/match before you stick it in. Other option is a small bottle of lock de-icer which they sell at auto stores up this way. Likely just some sort of alcohol in that stuff.
Frozen doors has already happened to me twice this week; wet and slush or freezing rain conditions one day and then bitter cold the next. But I can always manage to get the hatch open, so from the back seat I push the clutch in with a stick and start the car and leave the heater on. 1/2 hour later the doors opened for me this week. I suppose you could spray silicone lubricant or maybe even WD-40 on the rubber seals once in awhile but frozen doors are not a frequent event. But do not use petroleum-based lubricants on rubber; a set of door seals on one of my cars was oiled at one time and expanded so much they permanently stretched and sagged everywhere.
I used to have chronic problems with wind lift of ordinary wiper blades at speeds over 55 miles in Festys but ever since I installed "Reflex Hybrid" blades (from Canadian Tire) with an aerodynamic profile (initially I figured this to be an advertising gimmick) blade function has been perfect. Do lubricate the wiper arms (where they pivot) once in awhile because they do get stiff and then the tension spring cannot exert sufficient pull.

[Movin]

That was a mock up after I removed the AC stuff that I never really use.
I decided against mounting the whole winch inside.
When I get done with the lift kit made from a VW golf
I will weld a receiver back in there then mount the winch
on a plate with fairlead to be used front or back. An added
benefit the receiver mount will work with my 62" snow plow
I am thinking of mounting there too. Lift kit soon, a new
rear upper mount kit should be here tomorrow and I will
make new spring seats out of sno-cat belting, soon!

[bobstad]

and the horse is in front of the cart, of course.

That was a mock up after I removed the AC stuff that I never really use.
I decided against mounting the whole winch inside.
When I get done with the lift kit made from a VW golf
I will weld a receiver back in there then mount the winch
on a plate with fairlead to be used front or back. An added
benefit the receiver mount will work with my 62" snow plow
I am thinking of mounting there too. Lift kit soon, a new
rear upper mount kit should be here tomorrow and I will
make new spring seats out of sno-cat belting, soon!

I was thinking on a more practical level; I'd get a good come-along myself, and keep ropes and nylon tow hawsers on hand.

I do think that for the money, need and mechanical advantage, front wheel drive is often a better alternative than four wheel drive; and too little adapted to off-road or back-road needs. For one thing, if you run light you can go over rather than through barriers; which is a lot more graceful approach, so stylistically attractive. Kind of reverse macho, I guess?

VWs, the old flat-fours; really weren't too good to drive fast, as the weight in the rear made them like a pendulum. The same holds true for Porches; which though better designed also are faster: Lots of traction though, for either. I sometimes wonder why when Ralph Nader went after Corvairs, he never applied the same logic to swing axle VWs?

I still think someone with the imagination; could develop a functional suspension as an aftermarket one, that would have the advantages of the MG 1100/Austin America. These were unique, in that instead of shocks there were oil-filled pods, connected from front to rear; so that when a bump was hit by the front this forced oil to the rear to anticipate the coming jolt. The effect was incredible when the system worked; so a person could drive over washboard at freeway speeds, and not feel any jolts, sway or loss of directional stability.

The problem was that the engineers didn't perfect the mechanics, so that the oil pods leaked for instance; leaving the car I learned to drive in, sagging on one side after a few years. The whole car was an experiment; with the engine and transmission in the same oil bath, which was a disaster. The advertising always mentioned the ride was superior to a Rolls/Royce, which was definitely true. The handling was as incredible as the ride; though underpowered for their size. Loosely based upon the smaller Austin minis; there was also a larger MG Magnette, not sold in the US, which a person sees often in films of England or Asia; similar to the MG 1100s.

To recreate an oil pod which would bolt in where a strut or shock was; that would act like the suspension on the MG 1100, seems not that great a challenge. Particularly as the component's quality would be better now than almost fifty years ago.

Probably not too many of those MG 1100s survive now; but, a ride in one is worthwhile. The front seats were also the most comfortable I've ever sat in.

[bobstad]

Could paint oxidation be the problem; causing rubber to freeze to car body?

The idea hit me as I inventoried the various products available here; wondering if any would help, with the problem of the doors on the Festiva freezing shut.

If the paint has oxidized where the door gasket rests, then this would provide a larger surface area for ice to freeze to; is my theory at least. So, getting the painted surface slick and free of oxidation; might have the desired effect of keeping the doors from freezing shut? Since this involves the least risk of making anything like the rubber decompose, something to do first and see if there is a good effect. Also a process which will cost little; as I have something to try for this, on hand already.

Below is my list of things which could also feasibly be used: I think I'll give the Sterling's a try first; since always a good hand cleaner, which someone a bicycle mechanic gave me a few plastic pots of in '95 I'd been helping in his Berkeley shops.

The idea of waxing the painted surface also seems worth a try; and I have some very old car wax, which is still good and also is supposed to deoxidize-if I can find that.

The idea of using lubricants is less attractive since always some sort of a mess, as well as feasibly bad for the rubber gasket; though if the cleaning and waxing of the painted surface isn't enough I'll start to experiment.

This could be the last time once the temperature warms up enough to fool around here, that there will be freezes this winter; though probably I'll have a good chance before spring to see if the first experiments do any good.



Sterling's INSTANT MAGIC
AUTO seats, carpets, w/w tires, door panels, headliners, chrome, convertible tops; Removes bugs, greasy films and oxidation from auto paint finish.


NAPA Special Formula Carb, Choke & Throttle Body Cleaner. Contains: d-Limonene, Isopropyl Alcohol, Acetone, N-Methyl Pyrrolidone


NAPA 5-56 765-1360
"...leaves thin, non-messy, transparent film that actually lifts water and moisture from metal surfaces..." SPORTSMEN USES "...Snow & Water Skis..." "...safe to use around paint, rubber and bright metal surfaces..."


NAPA product; label faded to obscurity due to red lettering throughout, while much of the rest is still intact since black inked; including this list of ingredients, unusually... "...Mineral Spirits, Kerosene, 2-Butoxyethanol, Aiiphatic Hydrocarbon Mixture, Corrosion Inhibitor, Propane, Isobutane, n-Butane. Aerosol spray can contains ball for agitating mixture by shaking.


ACE LUBE-E SUPER LUBRICANT/PENETRANT; nine & eleven ounce cans "...harmless to leather, rubber or paint..."


LPS 3 Heavy-Duty Rust Inhibitor
Soft Waxy Film, Stops Rust & Corrosion, Heavy-Duty Protective Coating, Up To Two Years Protection "...safe to use on fabric, plastic, rubber, paint and other finishes..." "Alphatic hydrocarbon, Petrolium oil, Dipropylene glycol monomethyl ether

PYROIL Penetrating OIL: Kerosene, 2-Butoxyethanol, Petroleum Oil