Clunkerball Run in a 1990 Festiva

[Eaglefreek]

It's a Festiva, just put gas in it and go.

[Clunkerball Run]

Update: I changed the water pump and plugs. I was replacing the crank seal and I messed up big time...Before removing the timing belt I made sure the cam sprocket marks were at 12 and 3 o'clock, the crank sprocket marks lined up and I marked the timing belt location and the direction of the timing belt travel on the belt. Here is where I screwed up; to remove the crank sprocket i rotated it without thinking or marking it. Now that I am reassembling i dont know where the crank needs to be. You would think after years of tinkering under a hood I would have learned not to drink beer and and spin wrenches. Oh well, the damage is done. So what do I do now to ensure the cam and crank are lined up? Do I need to find TDC?

Thanks guys,

Chuck

[eurotiva]

There is a small mark on the edge of the timing belt crank gear that goes on the crank. It lines up with the small aluminum pointer on the oil pump housing. Also there is a square key that goes inside the gear and it should be at 12 o'clock. The mark on the cam gear is the one that is in the middle of one of the openings. It also goes to 12 o'clock. Its a non-interference motor so it won't bend or break anything if its not lined up. Hope this helps. And check the lower ball joints they are critical

[Movin]

D1 that kind of info is top secret stuff you should
PM clunkerball just in case the honda guys are reading
this! LOL nice thought out list, I hope it is used to win!!

[91mcnasty]

Even if you don't win I bet you do it the cheapest!! we win again!!!!!

[Clunkerball Run]

Guys, thanks again. I thought the crank turned twice for every one turn of the cam sproket. I could see where to line up the small edge on the crank and the aluminum pointer. I was worried that I had to find TDC not just line up the 2 marks. Good to know its all good and I did not mess anything up. Going back together tonight and hopefully runs great. I will send some update pics. I will also post some pics after we paint it camo.

[Clunkerball Run]

Ok new update and a huge FYI to anyone else that has a problem starting their engine after a crank seal replacement. I tried everything and could not get the car to start. Triple checked the cam and crank sprocket position, the belt, plugs, checked for fire....I mean I tried everything including a rain dance. As a last ditch effort I put the air box back on. She fired right up like a champ. I guess its the mass air flow sensor or something that wont let the car start without the box connected to the engine. Now its running good and the whole thing is going back together.

Yeeeehaaaa!

[91mcnasty]

You are correct, but it's called a VAF. When you crank and pull vacuum, it pulls a door that activates the fuel pump.

[Clunkerball Run]

Thanks 91mcnasty. I wish i has asked you 3 hours ago. Oh well, live and learn I guess. Better to figure things out now here in Denver than broken down on the side of the road during our 3,000 mile race.

Hammer Down!

[DriverOne]

D1 that kind of info is top secret stuff you should
PM clunkerball just in case the honda guys are reading
this! LOL nice thought out list, I hope it is used to win!!

ohsnap

[91mcnasty]

At least you figured it out!! Sometimes the intake tube cracks where you can't see it and won't pull the door open, thus no fuel. There's a connector on the firewall by the booster(2 wires) you can jumper to make sure your fuel pump is working during troubleshooting if a breakdown occurs!

[Clunkerball Run]

Now i have a new problem. The car takes a while to heat up and the heater is blowing cold inside the car. The top raditor hose is hot but the bottom one is cold. I checked the thermostate in boiling water and it opens fine. Also, there is a small leak from the passenger side hose going into the firewall and heater core. Any ideas Festiva Gurus?

[FestYboy]

air pocket... you need to burp the system. also, you may want to install a factory t-stat (2 stage from mazda or KIA)

edit: check that you have installed your waterpump belt and then backflush the rad!!!! the lower hose being cold is an indication of no coolent flow.

[Clunkerball Run]

how do i burp the system Festyboy? And, where do I get a 2 stage t-stat?

[FestYboy]

burping is easiest with a funnel that fits the pressure cap hole and overfilling it. run the engine untill the t-stat opens (you'll see it happen) and bubbles stop showing up in the funnel. then fill the resivoir, and put the pressure cap back on and allow the engine to cool. open it up again and top off at the rad..

the t-stats are from the dealer (mazda or kia)