B6 Exhaust Piping?

[Christ]

The id's & od's dont compute. 60 ga tube wall is 1/16 thick. 2 walls = 1/8 thickness, so 1 3/4 id + 1/8 = 2 inch od pipe...not 2 1/2

1/16" walls on a 1 3/4 ID make 1 7/8 OD.

[drddan]

No problem. That is way to thick, for sure. Thanks for thinkin" of me though!

[BigElCat]

Yeah about the tubing at work.

I was thinkin' I would do a headpipe with it, but I can't, beacuse I don't have the B6 exhaust manifold to mock up.

It has 1/8" walls, it's really heavy and can't be bent. I would not use it for tubing from the headpipe back. It just weighs too much.

I'm willing to pass some tid bits along for free. Bulk material would get me in trouble.

[BigElCat]

Brain Fart on Christ.

He must have been born in a barn :p

Sorry...sorry...I meant no offense.

I saw an X-mas card one time that was awful.

Mother Mary was yelling at Jesus, "Jesus Christ, close the door, where you born in a barn".

[drddan]

The pipe is jacketed, which is why the OD is so much larger than it should be.

PS - 1/8" and 1 3/4" is only 1 7/8".

Brain fart! :p

Wall thickness is X2 for OD...=2"

The ID is fine for the power you'll be making. It might even bolt to the stock Festiva converter flange.

You may have to take the $70 R and D plunge for the rest of us, Dr. Dan.

I would hazrd the guess that it's the same grade of stainless steel as the OEM headpipe.

I can still do a flat SS flange identical to the stock converter flange if you'd like. My CNC plasma was acting up today, but I've always managed to get it working before.

It appears to have the right flange, cat side.

I am willing to sacrifice for the benefit of ff.com.
Wasnt that Bosal pipe like $45? I'll have to look again.

The ss flange may be needed! Let me get my hands on a few parts and see whats up.
Do you still have that ss tube you found at work?

[BigElCat]

Wall thickness is X2 for OD...=2"

The ID is fine for the power you'll be making. It might even bolt to the stock Festiva converter flange.

You may have to take the $70 R and D plunge for the rest of us, Dr. Dan.

I would hazrd the guess that it's the same grade of stainless steel as the OEM headpipe.

I can still do a flat SS flange identical to the stock converter flange if you'd like. My CNC plasma was acting up today, but I've always managed to get it working before.

[Christ]

The pipe is jacketed, which is why the OD is so much larger than it should be.

PS - 1/8" and 1 3/4" is only 1 7/8".

[drddan]

Ok, I have an answer on the tube diameter of the above link to a Bosal down pipe for a Mazda 323

Here is the answer I got

Dear drddan,

Hello,

Inside diameter of the inlet is about 1 and 5/8 inches. Inside diameter of the outlet is about 1 and 3/4 inches. Outside diameter of the pipe changes a little bit with the curves but is about 2 and 1/2 inches.

Thanks,
George


- pelhamautoparts

The id's & od's dont compute. 60 ga tube wall is 1/16 thick. 2 walls = 1/8 thickness, so 1 3/4 id + 1/8 = 2 inch od pipe...not 2 1/2

But this looks like it is close to what I am looking for.

Any opinions?

[drddan]

Here is a link to one on ebay.It looks like it would work, but not sure.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Walker-Exhau...4176be&vxp=mtr

I am waiting on an answer as to what diameter the pipe is.

[BigElCat]

Makes sense.

Somebody help!

Will an old style (Gen 1) stock B6 headpipe work for a Gen 1 B6 motor swap in a Festiva?

[drddan]

Yes. The same flange will fit both.

Correction: When I said the B3 flange was "canted" about 15*, I used the wrong terminology. I should have said "rotated" about 15*

So one stud on the flange of the B6 points straight towards the front of the car, while one of the B3 flange studs points more towards the headlight, if that makes sense.

[BigElCat]

Just checked the bolt pattern of the flanges on the B3 and B6. Guess what?
The bolt pattern diameter of both the B3 and B6 are the same!
The bolts that stick up are the same pattern, but.... the B3 flange pattern is canted at about a 15* angle or so, where the B6 flange pattern is straight. The only other difference is the bigger exhaust hole in the center.

You mean the flange that connects the headpipe to the exhaust manifold?

[Christ]

I used to have a bunch of custom exhaust sites bookmarked, but I don't use that computer anymore, sadly. I went even more minimalist than I originally was, so I basically only use my phone or other people's computers to do online stuff.

I do remember that runner length is only part of the battle when building an optimal exhaust system. The distance between air-mass convergence (the junction) and the valve also determines "boost" points in the exhaust flow (based on RPM and volume) which can effectively "supercharge" the exhaust flow based on reverb frequencies. The effect is much more pronounced in intake building, but exhaust tuning works it's way into the game just as well. This is called "Helmholtz" tuning, if you want to research it.


I also remember that after the exit from the head, you want the pipe as smooth as possible on the inner bore. At the head, the velocity is high enough due to incomplete expansion to keep the flow moving along the pipe, even after the step restriction is introduced (which slows down flow by allowing expansion and creating drag). All of your expansion/contraction points should be no more than about 12-14* angles, any bend after the header should be wider than the pipe it intersects by about 20-30%, etc.

[drddan]

Just checked the bolt pattern of the flanges on the B3 and B6. Guess what?
The bolt pattern diameter of both the B3 and B6 are the same!
The bolts that stick up are the same pattern, but.... the B3 flange pattern is canted at about a 15* angle or so, where the B6 flange pattern is straight. The only other difference is the bigger exhaust hole in the center.

[BigElCat]

I'm wondering the same thing. Does anyone know?