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mpg's with a weber carb on 1.3 4speed

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  • #16
    Yeah, I wonder. Mine was bad when I bought my car years ago. Took me a long time to figure it out. Do the hose test to see if it will hold air. Keep messing with it, you'll figure it out.

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    • #17
      Post your Festiva or Aspire repair and maintenance issues. - USE THIS FORUM FOR ANY TECHNICAL RELATED POST (IE. How do I change my oil?, How to remove axle from tranny?, etc)


      It could be an internal wiring harness problem as well. Inside the cap.
      Last edited by Movin; 05-06-2012, 06:29 PM.
      Reflex paint by Langeman...Lifted...Tow Rig

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      • #18
        ok i'm going to order a distribitor from autozone tommorrow thanks for all the help so hope that is what's awrong with it

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        • #19
          Sorry to leave ya'all hanging, I've been super busy. I'm on lunch break now. I'll try to have pics of my hoses and wires by 6:00 pm tonight.

          The FSM can't be beat! It does have a few weaknesses though. I try scanning (unless my learn curve is too shallow).

          I have a Holley/Weber I can adapt if we can't get the feedbacks working right.
          '88 Festiva L, stock carby engine (with exhaust upgrade), 4 speed tranny. Aspire Struts and Springs, Capri 14" wheels, interior gutted, battery in back

          '92 Geo Metro XFi

          '87 Suzuki Samurai

          '85 F150, modded 300cid

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          • #20
            okay...I'm on the cam.

            Tell me what you need to know.

            Here's a couple of primer shots....I'm fighting the sun



            '88 Festiva L, stock carby engine (with exhaust upgrade), 4 speed tranny. Aspire Struts and Springs, Capri 14" wheels, interior gutted, battery in back

            '92 Geo Metro XFi

            '87 Suzuki Samurai

            '85 F150, modded 300cid

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            • #21
              i need to know were all of them go,when i got the car it had none of the sensers and had all vacuum lines plugged off

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              • #22
                Whoa..whoa...You bought a new dizzy?

                You should have bought a mity vac (IMHO).

                Cap off one side of the diaphragm, pump the Mity Vac up to -25, see if it holds. Pop the hose off, listen for a 'sproinga' sound.


                Do it again. It's a 2 way diaphragm...each side pulls against the other.


                Sproinga, sproinga....mine checks out. Time to move.

                In my case, I'm going to undo all the electrical connnections, hit the with compressed air and contact cleaner.

                I'll be back here after awhile.
                '88 Festiva L, stock carby engine (with exhaust upgrade), 4 speed tranny. Aspire Struts and Springs, Capri 14" wheels, interior gutted, battery in back

                '92 Geo Metro XFi

                '87 Suzuki Samurai

                '85 F150, modded 300cid

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                • #23
                  i ordered the dizzy movin said it soundeed like the problem,and it will not be here till thursday. we could start with one component at a time and you take a pic showing were it hooks,and if the compnent has more than one vacuum line just say the components name and the bottom port,or top port,or side port then tak a pic showing were it hooks it will be less pics that way and anyone who does not know the name of the compnent/senser can look in there hynes manuel and see which one it is.sorry have been on and off of here all day,been real busy and thanks again for taking the time to help,really want to have my festiva up and running correctly

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                  • #24
                    Cool! I'll walk you through this, but since I don't know what you do or do not know about cars in general it may sound sort of insulting.

                    Other people will chime in with advice, but I need to know any changes you make to 'our' plan.

                    A new dizzy won't hurt..we'll start there.

                    1) Trace #1 spark plug wire back to your existing dizzy cap. Follow the #1 tower on the cap with your finger down to the aluminum base (just under the cap) and mark a line with a magic marker on this 'base', centered on the #1 tower. If the marker won't mark, scratch with something sharp. Remove the dizzy cap, leave the plug wires on. Rotate the engine crankshaft clockwise (top to the right) until the dizzy rotor points to this line. Read your Haynes manual. If you want to find the exact TDC, go ahead, but you'll need to check and set the timing later anyway.

                    2) Index your existing dizzy to the cylinder head by making a mark on the dizzy base (next to the head) centered on the clamp bolt (the bolt that keeps the dizzy from rotating in the head). Keep reading your Haynes.

                    3) Duplicate both marks on the new dizzy. Eyeball this or measure to make it the same as the one on the 'old' dizzy. Position the new dizzy in the same orientation as the old one, with vacuum cans in the same position, etc. Put the new dizzy in with the clamp bolt centered on your mark. Snug the clamp bolt down. Put your cap back on.

                    Others can offer advice, I just need to know what you do exactly.

                    We'll start routing vac lines from the new dizzy, and go the next closest or next logical line.

                    Keep the KiMaFo Dream alive! Talk to you tomorrow, lookin' for progress
                    Last edited by BigElCat; 05-07-2012, 10:18 PM.
                    '88 Festiva L, stock carby engine (with exhaust upgrade), 4 speed tranny. Aspire Struts and Springs, Capri 14" wheels, interior gutted, battery in back

                    '92 Geo Metro XFi

                    '87 Suzuki Samurai

                    '85 F150, modded 300cid

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                    • #25
                      hey i thank you again,i know how to put car in time i'm pretty good with cars just never had a festiva before so i'm new to the feedback carb system and i do not have my new dizzy yet had to order it and it will not be here untill thursday.if you want to start on the dizzy vacuum lines, then we can go were ever you want and i can get all my lines hooked up correctly and i might not even need the new dizzy,we could go to a/c and e/l solenoid valves next or we could since alot of people seem to need this information we could use the haynes manuel in chapter six 6-16 ther is a pic of the engine with all the components numbered and you could start with number 1 and go in order all the way to number9,it's up to you i'm just glad i found someone who is willing to run through the system and help me get my car up and running

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by BigElCat View Post
                        Whoa..whoa...You bought a new dizzy?

                        You should have bought a mity vac (IMHO).

                        Cap off one side of the diaphragm, pump the Mity Vac up to -25, see if it holds. Pop the hose off, listen for a 'sproinga' sound.
                        [ATTACH]6916[/ATTACH]

                        Do it again. It's a 2 way diaphragm...each side pulls against the other.
                        [ATTACH]6917[/ATTACH]

                        Sproinga, sproinga....mine checks out. Time to move.

                        In my case, I'm going to undo all the electrical connnections, hit the with compressed air and contact cleaner.

                        I'll be back here after awhile.
                        I asked blue oval to do this test with the car idling . Also
                        gave the specs to look for if he had a timing light.
                        Reflex paint by Langeman...Lifted...Tow Rig

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          The dizzy only goes in one way. I would just look at the slot for the adjustment bolt and put the new one in about that same position. No marks or turning motor.

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                          • #28
                            movin i know you gave specs and i think you know what your talking about,i see your responses on here,i'm just the type of guy who if i'm going to keep a car i want it perfect all around and since it is 23years old i'd replace the dizzy just to know it is good,i drive over 100miles a day mon-fri and do not want to have to have it towed home.i'm 31 and truly know how to work on cars but have no ideal about this system(feedback carb)or all the vacuum lines i really just need as of right now to know how all the vacuum lines run and i appreciate all the help from everyone on here

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                            • #29
                              Some of these older cars do not have data available like we have with newer
                              cars. Have you looked at pics of other peoples cars? If I had any carbi pics I
                              would certainly send them to you. Copart auctions gives one underhood pic
                              in each auction and awhile back there was a good pic of a carbi that showed
                              the firewall and airfilter very well. Course its not there when we need it !
                              Did you post any clear pics of your suspect area showing the part and the
                              hoses leaving it? We might be able to dial things in that way for routing.
                              The way you describe the problem points to basic stuff..Loss of spark or
                              fuel or big timing change during the transition period.
                              Reflex paint by Langeman...Lifted...Tow Rig

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                              • #30
                                i do not know how to post pics on here and like i said my car had none of the emession stuff when i got it,i had to buy them off of here and then look at pics to see were they all bolted up to i can name off every senser that i need to know how it routes but i found alot of pics of vacuum lines of an 88 but seems like 88 and 89 are different and my car sounds great as long as your giving it gas but i tried to drive it and it jerked real bad have no ideal why bigelcat is going to post pics of his carb car and hopefully i can get them all ran correctly or i'm just going to order the weber and sell my new feedback carb and remove all emissions

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