choices choices choices

[Jacob]

I am curious what everyone thinks i should do. I have a 91 festiva that has a problem that will cost just over half of what an new engine would cost for it. I could fix the problem, or get a new engine for a little more money. Or I can go the extra mile and swap the engine. I do not want to get rid of the car because it is my favorite even though it does not run all the time. I also want some opinions on getting a new back seat. It was moldy and damaged beyond repair so i threw it out. The room back there is great. Should I get a new seat? or should I go for some bumping subs and use that to push me down the road instead of gas.

[Safety Guy]

More info needed Jacob.

What are your capabilities and resources such as a place to do work, tools, etc? What do you wish to wind up with? What are your financial restrictions? What kind of engines are common in your area? (Some areas are heavy with B8s, while others have plenty of B6s, etc.)

I'd say "engine swap," but if you go larger than a B6, IMO you'll need an Aspire brake swap too.

Karl

[Damkid]

Ah you don't need bigger brakes with a bigger engine, that's just depend on driving style with the bigger motor

Personally I say drop in a KL, but I say that to everyone to harass them :p

[Jacob]

Well okay i will be 100% honest with you. I am not to familiar with engines in my area. I am able to put the time into the vehicle. I would say my finances right now are kinda on the low side but I am willing to save up for what I need for whatever the decission is. I would like to keep the value of the car. I meen that when I swap the engine i dont want to loose money on it. But i still think I want to put the money into it knowing I probbably wont get it back. I have a garage (messy) to work in and my uncle has almost any tools i need. The only thing i dont have right now is an engine harness. What is a KL? I would like to end up with the car's body to be restored or look better than it does now (there is a few dings in it and most of the paint is still the original so its got a lot of fade. There is not a lot of rust so its in good shape there.

I have put a lot of money into the engine as it is right now. I started with all of the cheap stuff for trying to get it fixed. Plugs wires air intake things like that. I also put on new front brake pads and got new tires a few years ago. I have changed the pcv valve, ignition control module, ignition coil pack, batery, thermostat, fusable links, and have a new timing belt cover gasket to put on but have not yet been able to get to it yet. There were a couple of new gaskets put on just before I got the car but i do not know what they are right off the top of my head. And if i do get an engine swap or get this one fixed it needs new front window and rear window because its scratched up extremly bad. But no cracks currently

[Damkid]

KL swap is a V6, it's probably more work then you're looking to do lol

[thatlittlebluecar]

KL swap is a V6, it's probably more work then you're looking to do lol

was there much geometry involved, as far as the axels? i know the tranny fit right in via your build thread.

[Damkid]

Axles fit great, have not had any issues what so ever... But let's not clutter this thread up lol if you got more questions just shoot me a PM

[Safety Guy]

Jacob, start looking around at the engines available and their costs. The 1990 to 1994 B6 swap is almost like putting in another B3 but it gets you 19 more hp. You'll use your Festiva's FI harness and make only one splice, to the IAC valve. You'll want a three wire TPS from an MTX 323, but if you can only find an ATX 323 to get an engine from then you'll need an MTX TB which comes with the three wire TPS to put on. You can get those from 323s or a little larger one from a SOHC B8 Protege.

Do a search for engine swaps for more info.

If your current B3 needs a lot of work, IMO you'd be better off getting either a fresher B3 that needs a lot less work or getting a B6 to fix up for more power and fun.

Karl

[Jacob]

what is imo stand for?

[georgeb]

Maybe your engine is fixable with help from this forum.

[Jacob]

I put a lot into it and all my information comes down to the crank shaft position sensor located in the distributor. But because its expensive I dont want to do that and it not be the problem. But yes this site has been very helpful.

[Safety Guy]

IMO = in my opinion.

Karl

[Christ]

Describe as precisely as possible the problem you're experiencing, anything you've tried to fix it, and any diagnostic information you have, no matter the source.

You can buy a distributor from a junkyard for $40 or so usually, and they'll often let you take it back if that doesn't fix the problem. (Just tell 'em it was the wrong one if they ask.) I don't see b3's often for $80 or less unless they're in really bad shape already, so I don't think engine replacement is really your best option unless you're looking for more power, or if the engine itself is having problems (bad cylinder wear, damaged head/piston/crank, etc.)

[Jacob]

The issue is while driving or idling it will die randomly. If driving down the road it will spit and sputter and jerk real hard. At first started with plugs wires filters things like that. Then we noticed the fusable links were burnt so went to junkyard and found them a replacement. Still had the problem so we took off all the fuel lines and inspected them, checked the tank for debris and other things not supposed to be there. It was clear. Changed the pcv valve, then found on here where to get the check engine light to display information. When I read it the first time i thought it said throttle position sensor so i changed that but it didnt change anything and i posted on here that, and someone corrected me and said not tps but cps so i looked for the cps and didnt find it. I got a book and looked it up and its inside the distributor. So while looking it up my uncle said try the ignition control module and ignition coil pack. Which still didnt work. So just to make sure it was good i did a compression test. I dont remember what it was but i know it was good because i confirmed it with pleanty of people around town. there is no muffler and the catalytic converter was checked once and it was good. So i got a new fuel pump because it seemed like it was lacking fuel cause it acts up even more when it gets to less than a half a tank. I then checked the fuel shut off switch but thats not tirpping or shorting. before i do get a distributor my uncle wants to try a slightly heavier gauge of wire for the fusable links incase its burning out inside where we cannot see.

And i have checked junk yards around here, there are only 2 yards with any festivas or aspires and the engines have almost been completly pulled, the only one that i found that had a distributor was not in good shape. it had rust on the outside of the distributor.

[htchbck]

I've got a distributor you can have for free, the only thing I ask is that if that doesn't fix your problem, just send it back to me.