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Thinking of buying another one

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  • #16
    I bought it today.

    I've put a battery in it and it won't start. No surprise.

    I get spark from the coil. Haven't tried at the spark plug yet.
    Engine sounds like it has compression except maybe one? When cranking it pulses in threes with a pause after.
    PO says something about timing belt.
    I'll search around on here for other no start issues before I tear the front end apart.
    ~Austin
    Red 88 L (Ocho)

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    • #17
      CHECK YOUR FUSIBLE LINKS!!!


      Http://www.Youtube.com/TheresGabe

      1991 Festiva L Red: Daily Driver
      1990 Festiva L White: R.I.P.
      1988 Festiva L Silver: R.I.P.
      1991 Festiva L Red B6T: R.I.P.
      1989 Festiva L White: R.I.P.
      1995 Aspire 2-door White: R.I.P.
      1995 Aspire 4-door Red: R.I.P.

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      • #18
        Originally posted by TheresGabe View Post
        CHECK YOUR FUSIBLE LINKS!!!
        THIS!!! ^^^^
        1963 Fairlane - future NSS drag car
        1965 Mustang Coupe - A-code car, restoring for/with my son
        1973 F100 longbed - only 22k original miles, 360/auto, disk, PS/PB dealer in dash A/C
        1996 Sonoma X-cab - son's DD
        2002 Grand Prix - daughter's DD
        2003 Sport Trac - 180k, 130k on replaced motor with new timing chains - F/S soon.
        2005 Accord - wife's DD
        2008 Mountaineer - step daughter's DD
        2015 F150 SCrew - DD

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        • #19
          Good call. However who are the anonymous folks that do buy these cars! There must be an 'underground' for Festys and word seems to be out. Most folks are content to have a dead 20 year old car towed away for free.

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          • #20
            As long as the cam is in time most 1 cylinder low compression problems will
            start and run. So , check stuff like above!
            Reflex paint by Langeman...Lifted...Tow Rig

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            • #21
              I replaced the fusible links with cartridge fuses before I even checked the spark.

              It runs now. The intake tubing wasn't fully seated into the throttle body.
              It runs like crap though. I know autos are sluggish but this thing feels like I'm towing another Festy behind it. And it smokes. And CLATTERS!

              The upper end makes horrendous noise. And they may be some piston slap or rod knock but it sounds more like top of engine.
              It's been sitting for awhile. Up to a year. So that may be the smoke and hesitation.
              I'll add video and pictures as soon as my phone is done uploading them.

              Also, the A/C doesn't work
              ~Austin
              Red 88 L (Ocho)

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              • #22
                Video of engine running:



                Click to enlarge. Click again in Photobucket to enlarge further.









                Last edited by Oren09; 11-02-2012, 02:58 PM.
                ~Austin
                Red 88 L (Ocho)

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by Oren09 View Post
                  I replaced the fusible links with cartridge fuses before I even checked the spark.

                  It runs now. The intake tubing wasn't fully seated into the throttle body.
                  It runs like crap though. I know autos are sluggish but this thing feels like I'm towing another Festy behind it. And it smokes. And CLATTERS!

                  The upper end makes horrendous noise. And they may be some piston slap or rod knock but it sounds more like top of engine.
                  It's been sitting for awhile. Up to a year. So that may be the smoke and hesitation.
                  I'll add video and pictures as soon as my phone is done uploading them.

                  Also, the A/C doesn't work
                  Wow. Sounds like that thing's running without oil. That's insanely loud. Just a thought on the sluggish power... have you checked the ignition/cam timing yet? I know you said the timing belt may have jumped... that could explain some of your issues. I've been told that low compression, horrible fuel economy, and sluggish power delivery can be caused by a cam that is out of spec, so I'd start there. Doesn't explain the noise, but it sure could help.

                  Have you torn off the valve cover and had a look for any loose metal bits and or sludge up on the top end of the motor? Another quick fix for power loss is to test all of your vacuum parts for leaks and such, as that can contribute a little bit to these issues. For example, my FPR vacuum hose slips off on me all the time, so I had to secure it in place to ensure it stayed running okay.
                  1988 Chevy Sprint Turbo 997cc

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                  • #24
                    I added some more fresh oil and the noise seemed a bit quieter after a drive.
                    I haven't torn anything apart yet. I just got it home shortly before I posted and I work this evening.

                    After work I plan to do a compression check just to see how things are there and play with the distributor timing.
                    I may end up checking the timing belt but that's a big pain on an A/C car. I always have to drop the passenger side of the engine to get to the pulleys.
                    Right now I'm going to go poke at things and make sure everything is connected and not broken.
                    But overall I have a "running & driving" Festiva for $300. Even if the engine turns out to be non repairable, the body is pretty straight and the suspension felt alright. I think a couple coats of wax or maybe a light polish will have the Aqua shining bright. Did this colour get a clear coat from the factory?
                    ~Austin
                    Red 88 L (Ocho)

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                    • #25
                      I'll give you $400 for it and get it out of your hair.
                      Rodney

                      1991 FI 5 Speed Aqua Blue

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by rbrown View Post
                        I'll give you $400 for it and get it out of your hair.
                        Haha. Tempting.
                        ~Austin
                        Red 88 L (Ocho)

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                        • #27
                          Oren, you DO NOT have to drop the engine to check/adjust the cam timing, you just need a good flashlight, and a long ratcheting 12mm wrench and med prybar to move the tentioner out of the way. remove the top belt cover and you're there. dont even need to remove the waterpump pulley.
                          Trees aren't kind to me...

                          currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
                          94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

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                          • #28
                            Oh, ok. Thanks!
                            On my non-A/C car I always remove the water pump belt and pulley, crank pulley and both timing covers. But I've got it down to half an hour for a full belt swap/adjust. The A/C cars are a different story on that though.
                            ~Austin
                            Red 88 L (Ocho)

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                            • #29
                              Looks like a pretty nice score for 300 bucks!
                              -Rafe-

                              Things I have for sale.
                              Random Festiva Parts
                              Festiva Non-Swoopy Power Drivers Mirror

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                              • #30
                                Austin, good call, i know it is hard to walk away sometimes.
                                ;
                                www.facebook.com/rhodestiva ;
                                rhodestiva@gmail.com ;
                                http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=44851
                                http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/album.php?albumid=419
                                '92 Festiva L M/T
                                '93 Festiva GL A/T

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