Originally posted by 2xclutchin
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Lookie here... we got ourselves a Cobra!
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Oh, yeah your probably right. I gave to much credit. I am sorry for defending that, I see a diamond in the rough, but not that... I feel smart! LolMike Holmgren
Thief Rvr Fls, MN
1989 Festiva L, carb. 4 spd.
"If at first you don't succeede, get a bigger hammer. If it breaks it needed to be replaced anyway."
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Every initial indication, short of actually looking at the trim codes, says that it was not originally equipped in Cobra trim, meaning someone was working on the conversion.
I will verify this later today when I get home, because that one little detail kind of determines the direction of the whole project.
That aside... If it turns out that it's not a Cobra originally, I've decided to do 'er up sleeper style.
Based on the tach, I'm actually guessing it came as a 6 cylinder car... the 302 that's in it should literally be screaming and choking at 6k RPM (unless it's built, but it doesn't feel like it), while the tach is happily resting around there on quick revs from high idle, indicating too many pulses per revolution, typical on older cars with swapped engines.
The engine that's in it has blow-by, evidenced by the oil emission around the dipstick. IF the cause is low compression due to worn rings, as I suspect, I very well may (after determining if the engine actually is original to the car) swap it for a 351W with 73k on it that I pulled from a running but rotten Merc Montego several years ago, matched to a crate-delivered C3 with less than 20k on it.
Once I've verified that the Cobra trim that's installed is not original, it's all coming out and being sold to finance other aspects of the sleeper project.
One other option I've been toying with regarding the lug pattern swap is to keep the original lug pattern, but still use a custom rear disc setup and opt for 15 or 16" plain (not styled) steel wheels with modern lower profile rubber. Something like a 225/55ZR16 tire, or whatever size stays close to the original OAD of the stock rubber.
It's pretty easy to get/make a FMVB for a C3 these days... so that's something I'll also be looking into, with a shift improvement upgrade and the Hurst Pro-Matic II I already have.
Anyone have an idea on the HP figure using a stock 302 with Edelbrock Performer intake and Holley 660 4 barrel with straight 2.25" catless pipes? It certainly sounds nasty, and seems to have plenty of power available...
Stock figure was something like 137HP... and I KNOW that isn't accurate right now.
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Christ...the C3 is a light duty trans...only came behind four bangers and maybe some V6's. You're talking about a C4 right?
Also a 660 sounds like a lot of carb for a stock lopo 302.91GL BP/F3A with boost
13.79 @ 100, 2.2 60' on 8 psi and 155R12's
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Originally posted by bhazard View PostChrist...the C3 is a light duty trans...only came behind four bangers and maybe some V6's. You're talking about a C4 right?
Also a 660 sounds like a lot of carb for a stock lopo 302.
And I know NOTHING about Holley carbs, and yes, 660 seemed rather large for a stock 302, or even a cammed 302 honestly.
I'll pull the air filter off and get a pic of the top end of the motor when I get home at about 0900 or so and post 'em up. I can't get under the car right now to ID the trans properly, so that'll have to wait until I have a positive workspace for the car to go into and be put on stands, which is also when I'll scrape the underside down and roll the bedliner on it. After I fix someone's "oops, that's not how you use a jack" moments.
Is there any way to identify if it's cammed without actually pulling the cam out? Like by checking the lift/duration with the push rod or something?
My concern here is that I have NO CLUE what, if anything, has been done with this engine... the guy who did work on it was 2 owners ago, who sold it to his friend, who sold it to the guy from whom I received it... the information about the car didn't pass down through the owners, so I got a bunch of "I guess" from the last owner.Last edited by Christ; 09-18-2012, 02:22 AM.
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I was guessing it wasn't an original Cobra II, but it really doesn't make much difference in terms of value. I doubt anyone swapped a V6 for a V8...it requires a lot of unique parts from a V8 car to do it right (see my earlier post). If it has the original stock 302, it will have low compression ans smog heads. It will, however, have flat top pistons. Swap on a set of early heads, mild cam, intake, 600 Holley and headers and you'll be just shy of 300hp.Brian
93L - 5SP, FMS springs, 323 alloys, 1st gen B6, ported head & intake, FMS cam, ported exhaust manifold w/2-1/4" head pipe.
04 Mustang GT, 5SP, CAI, TFS plenum, 70mm TB, catted X, Pypes 304SS cat-back, Hurst Billet+ shifter, SCT/Bama tuned....4.10's & cams coming soon
62 Galaxie 2D sedan project- 428, 3x2V, 4SP, 3.89TLOC
1 wife, 2 kids, 9 dogs, 4 cats......
Not enough time or money for any of them
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Originally posted by blkfordsedan View PostI was guessing it wasn't an original Cobra II, but it really doesn't make much difference in terms of value. I doubt anyone swapped a V6 for a V8...it requires a lot of unique parts from a V8 car to do it right (see my earlier post). If it has the original stock 302, it will have low compression ans smog heads. It will, however, have flat top pistons. Swap on a set of early heads, mild cam, intake, 600 Holley and headers and you'll be just shy of 300hp.
According to the tach right now, it's idling at 2000 RPM warmed up. I'm gonna get an aftermarket tach and pop it in to verify since my timing light doesn't have a tach on it, but it really seems like there's somethin screwy there.Last edited by Christ; 09-18-2012, 03:38 PM.
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Yep, it was originally a 2.8 car.
The model number on the left side of the carb is [8050B]
Original underhood sticker. Now that I know this isn't the original engine, I'm making a deal w/ my father for the 70k mile 351W and crate trans, which apparently has less than 10k on it.
I couldn't get the aircleaner off and didn't want to play with it too much since I'm in my guard clothes, but I'll get the actual numbers off the carb later and see what it really is.
It's got electric choke on it and appears to be vacuum secondaries, but I can't see in there real well right now.Last edited by Christ; 09-18-2012, 03:55 PM.
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Originally posted by Flw Sock View PostJust saw this thread again and thought I would clear this up -
I said that thing is bada--. I think it looks awesome, and would love to own one. My dad said he had one when he was a kid and it was a complete lemon!
I'ma rep you for that.
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So I've decided on leaving that engine in there for now.
First things to work on are the body work and general cleaning/maintenance until I get a stock of parts built up for the 5 lug swap and decide what I want to do for the engine.
I probably won't do much on it until next spring though except some of the cleaning on nicer days. It's starting to get cold here and I've got enough crap to keep me busy for quite some time.
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Oh, I plan on updating the area under the hood.
The coolant jug will be replaced by a smaller unit and placed behind the header panel (nose clip).
The radiator is getting tucked back and a pusher eFan installed in front of it.
The engine electronics are going under the dash with the wiring harness routed through the trans tunnel.
Battery in the trunk (or a smaller unit behind the dash).
Wiper fluid behind the dash with the filler in the glove box.
Basically, I want nothing but engine in the engine bay. I'll deal with the booster being there unless or until I find another option for it.
Removing the power steering unit and lines.
I got a pair of 7" lights from a member on here that'll be going into the stock buckets for now with standard 55/65 lights instead of the 65/85 ones that came in them. I'm using one of those bulbs in my Katana right now. It's stupid bright.
I want to change the grille for something else and hide the turn lights behind it to help clean up the front end. Possibly expanded steel.
I want to look into doing the sequential turn signal circuit for the rear lights. Not sure what to do to update the exterior of the car any further.
All the Cobra specific parts are coming off and being sold to help finance the build if I can get good prices for them. I have to start a new envelope account for that. If I can't get good prices, I'm gonna hang onto 'em for a few years.Last edited by Christ; 09-24-2012, 07:52 PM.
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The carb is an 8050B, it appears to be a 600CFM "Emissions" (4th gen) carb. The jet runners have 45 R-312 cast in, all 4 of them. IT's a vacuum secondary, electric choke. Everything I've seen similar appears to be a 600CFM setup, but I can't get specific jet sizes and such without taking the bowls off and I'm not ready to do that just yet.
The only identification I could find on the heads were a number "10" stamped on the front of the left (DS) head behind one of the bolt bosses. I know they're not GT40(P) heads because they don't have any of the obvious identifiers.
Where can I find serial numbers on the motor to figure out what/when/why/where etc?Last edited by Christ; 09-26-2012, 03:09 PM.
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The part number for the heads is cast into the bottom side of the intke runners. You'd hve to pull the intake to see it. Otherwise, we cn narrow it down by the style of rocker rm used. The part numer for the block is cast in near the oil filter (I believe). Should strt with something like D7AE-####-##.Brian
93L - 5SP, FMS springs, 323 alloys, 1st gen B6, ported head & intake, FMS cam, ported exhaust manifold w/2-1/4" head pipe.
04 Mustang GT, 5SP, CAI, TFS plenum, 70mm TB, catted X, Pypes 304SS cat-back, Hurst Billet+ shifter, SCT/Bama tuned....4.10's & cams coming soon
62 Galaxie 2D sedan project- 428, 3x2V, 4SP, 3.89TLOC
1 wife, 2 kids, 9 dogs, 4 cats......
Not enough time or money for any of them
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