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  • #16
    I'm not sure what adhesive they used. I've used aircraft glue, body structural adhesive, and 3M Windo-weld all with good results. Windo-Weld takes forever to cure. Don't use it if you need the car within the next day or so.
    Last edited by Christ; 10-10-2012, 11:40 AM.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by Christ View Post
      If you remove the front and rear glass, and the rain channel covers, you can remove and replace the roof panel as a unit. Nobody produces it, so yous need to get one from another car.

      The reinforcement inside above the headliner is likely buckled, causing the roof panel to be allowed to move and flex. Remove the headliner, and using a jack and a 2x4, put pressure against the roof sp youars until they meet the roof, then slowly and carefully apply pressure to set them, being careful not to buckle the roof outward. Apply new adhesive before doing this.
      This should say "front glass and rear hatch".

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      • #18
        Originally posted by SimonTuffGuy View Post
        Ragtop FTW:
        And what size is it? I was looking at the ones Rafe linked to and I measured my car, it looks like the biggest that would fit would be a 35x40.

        How's it weather? Do you worry about it getting broken into? If you installed it yourself, would you do it again? Do you prefer it with or without it?

        I'm kicking around installing one in my wife's black GL.
        1963 Fairlane - future NSS drag car
        1965 Mustang Coupe - A-code car, restoring for/with my son
        1973 F100 longbed - only 22k original miles, 360/auto, disk, PS/PB dealer in dash A/C
        1996 Sonoma X-cab - son's DD
        2002 Grand Prix - daughter's DD
        2003 Sport Trac - 180k, 130k on replaced motor with new timing chains - F/S soon.
        2005 Accord - wife's DD
        2008 Mountaineer - step daughter's DD
        2015 F150 SCrew - DD

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        • #19
          It looks awesome, but I wonder if you lose any of the structural integrity of the car. Seems there is a cross beam no longer there...could you install it and leave the cross beams?
          -Rafe-

          Things I have for sale.
          Random Festiva Parts
          Festiva Non-Swoopy Power Drivers Mirror

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          • #20
            Originally posted by Larry Hampton View Post
            And what size is it? I was looking at the ones Rafe linked to and I measured my car, it looks like the biggest that would fit would be a 35x40.

            How's it weather? Do you worry about it getting broken into? If you installed it yourself, would you do it again? Do you prefer it with or without it?

            I'm kicking around installing one in my wife's black GL.
            Car is long gone... Whoever owns the shell could measure it. It came out of a Festiva though in a junkyard. I picked it up 2nd hand.

            The ragtop allowed a bit of water to come in when it rained, but nothing that I couldn't deal with. Being second hand, I guessed it was from age. A new one would probably seal up better. Car had an alarm, so not so much worried about being broken into. If someone wants in enough, they'll break a window. And hands down... the car WITH it. 2 prior versions of the car (1 plain... 1 with a sunroof... and the one with ragtop. Ragtop was AMAING.)

            As far as structure... You cut out a beam, but this did have braces that mounted to where the brace(s) were removed to secure it. Add in a rear strut tower brace and it was fine. I can't imagine why you would want to keep the brace. It would be right in the middle of the ragtop and ruin the look. Anyways, the car had air suspension and everything else, so I wasn't going for an autoX machine with it. After I sold the car, someone added a full rollcage to it, so that probably helped it out a lot.

            I wish I still had the car. :\
            Simon - pimptiva.com

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            • #21
              Checked out the link Prafeston added above. The 35x35 is on sale for $395.

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