what mpg do you get at

[mikeyjd]

So I ran 5 gallons (from chugging) in my Auto this weekend. Absolute gentle driving, very little throttle (going about 44-47MPH up hills, 56+ down in neutral). Engine off at stops.

202 miles before I ran out of gas again. 40.4MPG from an auto, baby! Yay.

-Joe

Really solid from an auto, although you can hurt an auto trans from neutral coasting fyi.

[TorqueEffect]

Really solid from an auto, although you can hurt an auto trans from neutral coasting fyi.

Hmm never knew that.

Definitely good to know.

[nitrofarm]

Hmm never knew that.

Definitely good to know.

I dont think thats true, if you keep the engine running.That way the pump is turning supplying fluid pressure. Coasting with the engine off is different though. just my two cents

[Pu241]

I dont think thats true, if you keep the engine running.That way the pump is turning supplying fluid pressure. Coasting with the engine off is different though. just my two cents

It is true!
The pump is running at idle, but doesn't supply sufficient fluid volume if the wheels are turning, especially if they are turning at 30+ MPH.
Otherwise, one could tow an ATX festy, without damaging it, just by letting it run in neutral while flat towing.
THis info I got from FB71 while I was consider how to relocate an ATX festiva.

[Spike]

155/80-13s, mileage verified via GPS. I kept it under 2300RPM almost the whole time, but it was realllly aggravating, saying as it likes to downshift at 2500. No gas pedal at all, or it goes back to second gear.

I know it can hurt it, but I'm young and dumb. ...and I have a 5-speed just waiting for it to blow.. :p

I've gotten as high as 37.5mpg up 'til now, light coasting. But that was with a passenger (and my fat self) and all my tools in the back.. she runs good for an old gal..

-Joe

[nitrofarm]

155/80-13s, mileage verified via GPS. I kept it under 2300RPM almost the whole time, but it was realllly aggravating, saying as it likes to downshift at 2500. No gas pedal at all, or it goes back to second gear.

I know it can hurt it, but I'm young and dumb. ...and I have a 5-speed just waiting for it to blow.. :p

I've gotten as high as 37.5mpg up 'til now, light coasting. But that was with a passenger (and my fat self) and all my tools in the back.. she runs good for an old gal..

-Joe

Seriously dont worry @ shutting off your engine and coasting to a stop. Its just pro-longed periods of hig speed towing that will damage an ATX. Not at all what your doing,but I would just pop it into neutral if it was me. Unless its going to be a Loooong stop lite. PS you can move that down shift shift point by adjusting the foot pedal switch :thumbs_up:

[Spike]

PS you can move that down shift shift point by adjusting the foot pedal switch :thumbs_up:

I love you.

[mikeyjd]

you could also modify the torque converter so that it can be turned on manually at a lower speed than factory settings.

edit: this is assuming auto festy's have them*

[bhazard]

Only the aspire got the lockup converter. And I think maybe only 96-97. Maybe even just 97.

Its a centrifugal clutch. Its not manually controllable. Maybe someone who knows that stuff could modify it to change the lockup speed?

[Movin]

A lathe and a welder to cut the factory or rebuilder welds then reweld when done changing the springs. A job for the Pro's Pro. If you do the pics will be popular!!

[Paul39]

70-75?

even at 65mph I am going through a quarter and a half (faild fracations) of a tank every 70 miles. if I am force to go 70-75 it goes up to about half a tank.

Gas gauges are an approximation. Gas gauge on the Black Rocket, 1988 stock 4 speed, shows above full on fill up, goes down to 3/4 full then drops to empty. If I fill up then, it takes 4 gallons. Gas gauge on the first Red Rocket was pretty accurate. Gas gauge on the second Red Rocket that I bought yesterday took about 3 gallons from a gas can today and showed about 1/4 full.

To figure your mpg (assuming you have a working odometer), Go to a gas station and fill until the nozzle clicks off. Mark down the odometer reading and drive about half a tank. Go back to the same station, in the same bay, pointed the same direction, put the nozzle in the same distance and fill until it clicks off.

Note the gallons and your odometer reading and calculate.

Using the above, starting and ending at the same station and keeping track of fills in between, a round trip to Raleigh, from Asheville, 510 miles, driving mostly 60 to 70 mph in a dead stock 1988 4 speed Festiva, gets me right at 40 mpg, over the 7 years, 2 -3 times a year trips. Running the AC takes off 1 - 2 mpg.

I had a 500 mile run back from PA one time at 70 - 80 for about half the distance and got around 36 - 37 mpg.

Paul

[nitrofarm]

Gas gauges are an approximation. Gas gauge on the Black Rocket, 1988 stock 4 speed, shows above full on fill up, goes down to 3/4 full then drops to empty. If I fill up then, it takes 4 gallons. Gas gauge on the first Red Rocket was pretty accurate. Gas gauge on the second Red Rocket that I bought yesterday took about 3 gallons from a gas can today and showed about 1/4 full.

To figure your mpg (assuming you have a working odometer), Go to a gas station and fill until the nozzle clicks off. Mark down the odometer reading and drive about half a tank. Go back to the same station, in the same bay, pointed the same direction, put the nozzle in the same distance and fill until it clicks off.

Note the gallons and your odometer reading and calculate.

Using the above, starting and ending at the same station and keeping track of fills in between, a round trip to Raleigh, from Asheville, 510 miles, driving mostly 60 to 70 mph in a dead stock 1988 4 speed Festiva, gets me right at 40 mpg, over the 7 years, 2 -3 times a year trips. Running the AC takes off 1 - 2 mpg.

I had a 500 mile run back from PA one time at 70 - 80 for about half the distance and got around 36 - 37 mpg.

Paul

Yes you have to know your tank,I shake my car to get the air out 3-4 times before Im satisfied its topped off. (Its important to note that OP is/was driving an ATX).

[jason_]

Really solid from an auto, although you can hurt an auto trans from neutral coasting fyi.

Idleing, no. Engine off coasting, nothing serious

But, reason they say kill drive shafts when towing an auto with drive tires on ground for over 50miles.

Set of dog ears on torque converter drives the front pump when flywheel turns. Keeps fluid moving to satisfy needle bearings and the sun/ring and planetary gears... If you're familiar of planetaries, they're the reason the traditional automatic was possible..... Yeah, the input shaft isn't turning, but the output shaft is, and still floats on bearings.

Also a note why towing in overdrive is a no no, lower rpms turns pump slower, which when fluid is hotter and thinner, harder to maintain pump pressure to push clutch packs together, which results in slipping, which eats material, which plugs filter, which staves hydraulic pump, which results more slipping, vicious circle....

Any one problem can escalade quickly into a non working gearbox. And we still haven't gotten into valve bodies..... Reason I only buy manuals. If taper cones are tight, and she's got gear lube, your golden..... But Anyways...

And I'm soon to test milage in a daily aspire 1.3 manual after a serious engine optimization/swap. She just burned another valve..... Soo...

new block is 20 over, jumped from 5cc dished to 3cc dished pistons, and milled 0.048" off the head, which I'm sure shrank the chamber a cc or so, (about 28cc before I started if I recall). And newer exhaust valves with full meat to eat up more cc chamber. I'm sure I'll be mid 10s to high 10s for CR..... I'll let ppl know when I get it together and broke in.

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[nitrofarm]

Idleing, no. Engine off coasting, nothing serious

But, reason they say kill drive shafts when towing an auto with drive tires on ground for over 50miles.

Set of dog ears on torque converter drives the front pump when flywheel turns. Keeps fluid moving to satisfy needle bearings and the sun/ring and planetary gears... If you're familiar of planetaries, they're the reason the traditional automatic was possible..... Yeah, the input shaft isn't turning, but the output shaft is, and still floats on bearings.

Also a note why towing in overdrive is a no no, lower rpms turns pump slower, which when fluid is hotter and thinner, harder to maintain pump pressure to push clutch packs together, which results in slipping, which eats material, which plugs filter, which staves hydraulic pump, which results more slipping, vicious circle....

Any one problem can escalade quickly into a non working gearbox. And we still haven't gotten into valve bodies..... Reason I only buy manuals. If taper cones are tight, and she's got gear lube, your golden..... But Anyways...

And I'm soon to test milage in a daily aspire 1.3 manual after a serious engine optimization/swap. She just burned another valve..... Soo...

new block is 20 over, jumped from 5cc dished to 3cc dished pistons, and milled 0.048" off the head, which I'm sure shrank the chamber a cc or so, (about 28cc before I started if I recall). And newer exhaust valves with full meat to eat up more cc chamber. I'm sure I'll be mid 10s to high 10s for CR..... I'll let ppl know when I get it together and broke in.

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TominMo & I both have Aspires so it will be great to compare notes with you.Please add location to your info so we have an idea of you temps & terrain. Is your 5sp from an Aspire?

[jason_]

TominMo & I both have Aspires so it will be great to compare notes with you.Please add location to your info so we have an idea of you temps & terrain. Is your 5sp from an Aspire?

Sorry, I might be starting to compare apples to oranges.

95 aspire with the factory manual gearbox, to clarify for future reference. Michigan. No cat, but stock muffler. 80% flat ground/overdrive.

But I need to learn to stop dumping WOT to fight hills when in overdrive, spoils me for when I go to an automatic....

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