Hydraulic escort gt transmission

[freshtiva]

It something like a GMr25. I have a question about how far the slave cylinder has to move the lever on the tranny to get the clutch to disengage. Mine doesn't move much but the pedal action is good.

[freshtiva]

This is the fork Im talking about, mine is moving about 1/2",hope that's enough

[bobbyspider]

Is it not disengauging the clutch? I do know it doesnt move the fork much,.1/2" to 1" sounds about rite to me

[freshtiva]

Is it not disengauging the clutch?

I'm not sure its a project car that's not running. I may still have some air in the clutch line. It just seems like the fork isnt moving much.

[Banana Bonanza]

First this isnt a "hydraulic transmission", its a hydraulic clutch linkage on a manual transmission.

I know nothing about this particular car, but do know about hydraulic clutch linkage. And yes most of them are PITA to get completely bled. Even worse, most modern hydraulic linkages have no mechanical adjustments to fudge a bit with like older systems. They have to be absolutely completely bled to within gnats eyelash in order to just function normally. I suspect you have more bleeding to do.

The exception is the aftermarket universal Wilwood hydraulic clutch linkage that I put on my Ranger. It uses a pull type slave cylinder instead of usual push type slave. So you mount it back of clutch lever instead of in front. Anyway its gotta be the easiest to bleed system I ever experienced. You basically open bleed valve on slave, let brake fluid out until you see no air, and voila, its bled. 10 minutes tops. Plus it has longer stroke than many slaves. Really. After struggling with Ford's el crappo plastic setups on their pickups, that are an incredible pain to bleed, this was heaven sent.

Before anybody mentions that Rangers had OEM internal type slave. Well most did, not all, but most. However I converted my Ranger to the 300-6 and an old three speed transmission so have clutch lever and can use external slave. I also used aftermarket all metal master mounted next to the brake master, not slanted down in impossible to get to area, like the OEM plastic master. The little 2.8L V6 was horrible underpowered pickup engine (very little torque at lower rpms), especially on a 4wd and with factory axle gearing being wrong for it. 300-6 is overkill for a Ranger, but the more appropriate smaller 200-6 and 250-6 are rare as hens teeth anymore, at least in good condition.

[Flw Sock]

@Banana Bonanza

I hate to thread jack... but what year is your ranger? I have an '83 with the 2.8

[bobbyspider]

Yea they are a pain to blead. Are there axels and a hub on? put a wheel on and have a friend push the clutchand try to spin the wheel. Maybe that will help? But bleed the crap out of it as well, fill the res and let it gravity feed, take the bleeder valve all the way out and let grav do the work

[freshtiva]

I know nothing about this particular car, but do know about hydraulic clutch linkage. And yes most of them are PITA to get completely bled. Even worse, most modern hydraulic linkages have no mechanical adjustments to fudge a bit with like older systems. They have to be absolutely completely bled to within gnats eyelash in order to just function normally. I suspect you have more bleeding to do.

Would you expect the travel at the slave cylinder to equal the travel of the plunger on the master cylinder ?

Yea they are a pain to blead. Are there axels and a hub on? put a wheel on and have a friend push the clutchand try to spin the wheel. Maybe that will help? But bleed the crap out of it as well, fill the res and let it gravity feed, take the bleeder valve all the way out and let grav do the work

Yes hubs are on and that's a good idea trying to hand spin the wheel, I'll have to find a friend first. Im going to hook my brake bleeder peanut butter jar to it in awhile.

[Movin]

Those are easy, don't even use the bleeders. Fill the reservoir and push the slave all the way in a few times before hooking it up. Completely self bleeds the system as all the air is forced out the pilot bleed in the master.

The remote reservoir Rangers are a royale pain no doubt, the hardest part after replacement is getting fluid from the reservoir to the master.

[FestYboy]

Marcus, you will not get the same distance traveled at the slave that you have at the master. Master travel will be longer than the slave, and that imparts a mechanical advantage as well as the hydralic advantage that you get from the smaller master bore to larger slave bore.

i would expect to see at least .75" travel at the slave.

[Bert]

I converted my Ranger to the 300-6 and an old three speed transmission so have clutch lever and can use external slave. I also used aftermarket all metal master mounted next to the brake master, not slanted down in impossible to get to area, like the OEM plastic master. The little 2.8L V6 was horrible underpowered pickup engine (very little torque at lower rpms), especially on a 4wd and with factory axle gearing being wrong for it. 300-6 is overkill for a Ranger, but the more appropriate smaller 200-6 and 250-6 are rare as hens teeth anymore, at least in good condition.

You managed to install my all time favourite engine in a Ford Ranger (the Mazda B2000 clone)! You gotta (for my sake) post a picture. Only real difference with the 250 is the longer stroke and deck height. The M5ODR2 bolts right up and gets you 2 more gears one of which is overdrive (which I know has that 'Ford's better idea' (stupid) internal slave cylinder). My 86 F150 with that get up in it gets better mileage than my buddy's modern V6 automatic Ranger.

[Bert]

It something like a GMr25. I have a question about how far the slave cylinder has to move the lever on the tranny to get the clutch to disengage. Mine doesn't move much but the pedal action is good.

I don't know why everyone is into hydraulic-actuated clutches these days. They leave zero room for adjustment and can't be Gerry-rigged to get you home in the event of a fail. Folks on here have invented methods to swap over to cable and I'd personally be the first to be looking at doing that. Master cyl, can leak or fail, lines and fittings can fail and so can the slave cylinder. At least a cable 'job' is almost fool proof and allows you to set the pedal height, take up slack as the friction plate wears etc etc.