Acorn Presser Idea

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The check valve linked is a swing check, its just a metal flapper that seals against water, but it won't work for air, or so I was told...I need a check valve more like the one I linked. I was thinking I could come out of the head with 6" of 1/4" just to clear the head and be able to twist stuff together, but I could also use brass pipe with the correct thread pitch if I can find a check valve to screw on.. I don't care if its half inch or 1/4, then get an adapter to bump it up to 1/2" as soon as possible after I get clear of the head. I think I need a check valve rated for 300 psi since chambers get up to 215+/- even tho I won't be seeing anything more than 150/175 tops if something went wrong..? I'm gonna stop by another place in town called crescent and sprague and check them out..I'll probably take my spare head in to show them what I'm working with, maybe they'll have some ideas.

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Ok ok, getting excited again... I called grainger and they said only products with restrictions are limited to buisness account buyers, everything else is fair game and they're happy to take my order! So.. I'm thinking this..

A piece of 1/4x 2" pipe, a female coupling going to this..

http://m.grainger.com/mobile/details/?R=6D914

Then a reducer from 1/4 up to 1/2" for the rest of the manifold into the tank...and ill either buy those check.valves tonite or tomorrow, I might be running up to chillothe to visit Karl today.

[Christ]

Yessir you're right about those valvez, don't know what I was thinking there... you need air type valves else youll just be leaking pressure back into the head.

Seems to me like that short distance of 1/4 probably won't affect anything, but if you can thread something to the M14-1.25 on the head side and NPT1/2 on the other, that might be ideal. or use the pushlok fittings instead and build the manifold, then put the tap pipes in the head, then push-lok everything together? Should make for pretty simple removal, too...

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hahahaa.a....

I went to Grainger after work and ordered 4 of those check valves, they should be in tomorrow morning, total of $31 including tax. Still gotta get some more pipe and whatever else I'm going to need.

heh...here yas go..

DISCLAIMER* my garage is a mess and I'm not responsible for nightmares after viewing this video!

http://youtu.be/olMDRkNCT58

heh..so anyway, I think I'm gonna want/need a pressure relief valve to screw into the 1/2" hole in the tank. Anybody got a link for one for a decent price? I kinda browsed grainger and I didn't really see one that caught my eye..

also if someone finds or knows where I can get ahold of an adapter for 14x1.25 male to 1/4" NPT female I'd 'preciate it. Thanks so far you guys are awesome!

[Christ]

Quick search, best thing I've been able to find is M14x1.25 - NPT1/8 for an adapter. You'd likely have to find a male-female adapter nipple instead of a bushing to get anything like that.

The metric hole is .551+/-, the 1/4NPT is .540 nominal.

The M14 - 1.25 has about 20.32 threads per inch, while the 1/4NPT will have 18 on a taper. Given that you're screwing black iron into a cast alum head, I'm sure that if you coat the threads with RTV and make it good and tight in there, you can just screw the pipe in directly and it'll seal.

If you pick up NPTF nipples, they have a slightly different thread profile [not pitch] that is meant to have an interference fit and prevent fuel leaks around the spiral thread path.

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I don't know if they would hold up to constant use or heat for very long, but I was thinking about the possible use of compression tester hoses for the adaptors from the head to air manifold.

Or maybe simply gutting some sparkplugs to use the threaded portion as an adaptor. Some welding would probably be required though.

[Christ]

I was thinking about brazing spark plug sleeves onto some copper pipe actually. Dunno how long it'd work tho. The problem with comp hoses is the ID. They'd heat up quickly and start breakdown immediately. And that would be bad, m'kay...

Plus side to breaking upspark plugs? The ceramic dust will shatter tempered glass witlittle effort.

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I found this site, and its helped me understand a little more about exactly what I need...

http://www.ecompressedair.com/accessories/valves/unloadercheck-valves.aspx

So ill buy or order this tonite, I guess just take the plug out to use the unloader..

http://m.grainger.com/mobile/details/?R=6X208

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I found this site, and its helped me understand a little more about exactly what I need...

http://www.ecompressedair.com/accessories/valves/unloadercheck-valves.aspx

So ill buy or order this tonite, I guess just take the plug out to use the unloader..

http://m.grainger.com/mobile/details/?R=6X208

From the description of the "Load Genie" it sounds to me that you wouldn't need the one listed by Graingers.

Quote from "Load Genie",

"Alternative methods rely on external unloading valves mounted on the pressure switch or compressor. These external unloading valves are connected with appropriate tubing and fittings to the compressor discharge line or compressor head. A tank check valve is also required. These systems, then consist of the unloading valve, connecting tubing with appropriate fittings, a tank check valve, and the labor to install it all. Compare this to the single component installation of a Load Genie, and the advantages are apparent."

So the claim is you eliminate the need for a valve leading into the tank, such as is the one from Graingers.

You'll still need a pressure switch to turn off the compressor once the set PSI is reached though. More than likely the big 'ol "presser" you have is already equipped with one.

Chris, yea I kinda figured the compression tester hose wouldn't be a viable solution. Just thinkin' out loud.

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I wasn't planning on buying any of those overpriced parts from that site lol, but the definition and description of what individual fittings do was nice to have to read!

I stopped by and picked up my check valves.. also ordered the one way check valve for the tank. The old compressor has a one way check valve mounted on the tank, but I don't think it worked because air still came back and bled out through the compressor...so I want a new one to go in the tank, and it will also bleed off head pressure between the tank and the check valves on each cylinder. The motor does turn the engine, but if the check valves are in the engine, the belt likes to spin for a second before it actually takes off, and the belt is fairly tight, so I want it to be as easy to start as possible.


Couple things happened today, I found my spare head and took it in to the hardware store..this guy has been through alot with me trying to get projects going, and he always works with me....he actually ordered some spare Aspire key blanks so I can get keys made there! Anyway, we talked for about an hour about what the best and cheapest vs best and easiest way to get this manifold made up. We pulled out compression fittings, pipe fittings, pipe stock, .... laid everything out with 2 or 3 options... the best way was to get a flare tool and make my own flare couplings, but that would have ran me in the vicinity of $70+ $30 worth of pipe fittings...the other option was compression fittings, which turned out to be alot cheaper, comming in at $48 for everything but a 3' length of pipe I'm going to need @ $2/ft. and $20 worth of pipe nipples and fittings. I got all the compression fittings and snagged 2' of pipe to put the biggest part of the manifold together...but I still need to get the pipe fittings to get out clear of the head tomorrow.

Anyways, I stuck the check valves straight into the head to check some stuff out....with nothing in the holes the air actually gets sucked in backwards from the exhaust manifold, and blows out of the intake!! I figure it's the power stroke creating vacuum causing the reversion of airflow. With the check valves in, the air still goes in the exhaust, and the intake manifold is confused going in and out really fast but more is comming out that going in. The check valves do blow out compressed air! So regaurdless, it will work, and we'll find out how well as soon as I can get some more pipe.

So now to work out some kinks, I removed the exhaust rockers and shaft, so the valves stay shut, and the same deal happens, but without air going in or comming out the exhaust. Air is constantly being pushed and pulled in the intake. I'm wondering what will happen if I either cut those intake springs down alot, or even find some different skinny/taller springs that will hold the valve shut, but be weak enough to let the valve open without causing any kind of valve float.....any ideas? Worst case senario, I can see myself using a piece of 1/4" steel and cutting it to the shape of the intake flange and sticking a couple of those 1/2" check valves in that with the intake mani bolted on top!! but it would be nice if I don't have to do that because I'll have to disable the camshaft and wedge the intake valves open.

hah..it's almost worth giving Dickmeyer $180 to make me a cam lol.

oh, don't run your engine with the valve cover off! Oil shot about 10' in front and 10' behind. It even hit the ceiling lol..

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Zoom,

I would say weak intake springs with the timing belt off would be a way to try.

I'm thinking this would allow the engine to be a 2 stroke compressor as was previously discussed.

The intake valves would simply be check valves.

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Right on, ill have to figure something out. I'm not sure if I really want to use stock springs if I can find something more suited to this application.

Aanyway...pics! Almost had the manifold made up lol...could have but I dropped and list one of the compression fitting pieces...so ill get a new one and another foot of copper.

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Lookin' good so far.

[Christ]

Did you manage to find the check valves you need for each cylinder?

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Yea I got the ones I linked a page back I think from grainger. The cylinders have a 1.5" pipe nipple coming out of the spark plug hole, a 1/4" female coupling, check valve, 1/4"-3/8" reducer, 3/8" 45, then the adapter to go to compression fittings...

I am getting ready to head out and grab a spring compression tool and another foot of pipe, on the lookout for springs too I have no idea where to even start there.