Acorn Presser Idea

[lessersivad]

Zoom,

I just watched the video. Stopped it at 0:14 and noticed you don't have anything hooked to the fitting on the pressure switch.

The allen head plug you had/have removed should have a pipe to compression fitting screwed in it's place. Then a small piece of tubing going to the fitting on the pressure switch.

When the pressure switch turns off at the determined pressure it also "dumps" the air coming from the compressor unit.

You probably already know this info, just simple observation on my part.

As for the copper "header". It's only my opinion but I would think if the size was stepped up at the transition(s) so the volume of the individual lines (tubes) were a bit relieved of backpressure. (As it stands now, it's kinda like jambing 10 pounds of...um..er..stuff into a 5 pound bag.)...LOL.


Quick example would be 1/4" out of the individual cylinders then 3/8" after the first "T", then 1/2" after this, leading to the 1 way check valve at the tank.


I do think though, that a larger pulley on the motor would be worth a try. this would increase the surface area the belt is gripping and help keep the belt from bending so tight around the smaller pullet sheave.


I also want to give you credit for putting this together. Here I am throwing out an idea but you actually built it!

I also hope that anything I've posted doesn't come off as being a "know-it-all".

Good job Zoom.

[zoom zoom]

L, I didn't know that about the pipe thats supposed to go to the pressure switch, I've seen that on a couple compressors comming from the compressor but I didn't know exactly what it was, I'll pop the shell off the switch and see if it has provisions to hook that up. I only had the plug out of that hole so that I could demonstrate how it runs perfect with it out(also doesn't build pressure either..) but when the plug goes in the belt starts slipping.

The way it is all the pipe fittings and hoses all step to bigger sizes, starting at 1/4" from the plug hole to 3/8 to 1/2" compression fittings. The size of the pipes only gets larger as it goes into the tank.

[lessersivad]

L, I didn't know that about the pipe thats supposed to go to the pressure switch, I've seen that on a couple compressors comming from the compressor but I didn't know exactly what it was, I'll pop the shell off the switch and see if it has provisions to hook that up. I only had the plug out of that hole so that I could demonstrate how it runs perfect with it out(also doesn't build pressure either..) but when the plug goes in the belt starts slipping.

The way it is all the pipe fittings and hoses all step to bigger sizes, starting at 1/4" from the plug hole to 3/8 to 1/2" compression fittings. The size of the pipes only gets larger as it goes into the tank.

You shouldn't have to remove the cover. The fitting on the switch should be a compression fitting (1/8" I think). You can check to see, but it should already be equipped with a small dump valve.

Yea, i really couldn't tell on my 'puter the sizes increase as the go downstream.

You may now continue with the normal broadcast, already in progress....LOL.

[Christ]

Hey, since you really want it to keep looking like an engine, another method would be to attach reed valves to each intake runner and each exhaust runner, plug the spark plug holes, and remove the valves altogether. It should take about 70% less power to drive this way as you aren't using a cam and belt or actuating spring-loaded reciprocating assemblies, plus you can use an Aspire header [I have one if you need it] with the tubes cut off and run something like 1'' piping off them. [Whatever matches the port size] which would SERIOUSLY help with back pressure. It would also negate the need for check-valve per cylinder and allow the compressor to run as a 2-stroke without wasted strokes.

Tap the valve guides and install a plug in them, or remove them altogether and thread the hole they go into. The bottom of the guide represents a restriction, but it shouldn't bother anything.

You can even leave the cam in place, or take it out and just put the timing cover back on. It'll look just like a stock engine, more or less, with 'custom' manifolds.

[zoom zoom]

Back to this subject again I can't let it sit idle much longer.

Checked the Grainger book for pulleys and this is what I've come up with... I think I'm gonna order the highlighted one unless someone says Why I should opt for a different one.



Christ, I don't know anything at all about a reed valve, I just barely know what they do. If I had some knowledge of their operation maybe I could go about using some on this but I don't.

[jason_]

They're spring loaded to stay shut. Small vacuum opens them. Intakes are different then exhaust. Alot open with only a couple psi.

Exhaust side you have take pressure holding them shut, and piston positive pressure will open and push air into exhaust circuit.

Results in 2 stoke operation.





Sent from my rooted HTC Supersonic using Tapatalk 2 Pro

[lessersivad]

Back to this subject again I can't let it sit idle much longer.

Checked the Grainger book for pulleys and this is what I've come up with... I think I'm gonna order the highlighted one unless someone says Why I should opt for a different one.

Gee, nothing like being late to the party.

I would think that pulley should do the trick. At least the belt wouldn't have to bend as tight and it would give more surface area for the belt to "grip".

[zoom zoom]

I got the pulley, it still doesn't run like it should. You guys were right about 1/4" valves being too restrictive, as soon as I popped the header off the thing works like it should, but no header is no air t the tank.

Basically I need to start at square one with the header and use bigger check valves on each cylinder.

What I'm thinking is the header will probably be a piece of flat stock bolted in place of the exhaust mani. Stick some 1/2" check valves on each runner and rig the exhaust valves open. The problem is the compression ratio will be drastically reduced and I don't know how much air will actually be compressed.

Trial and error the next step will be pulling the head off the block, drilling out the plug holes and trying 1/2" valves there.

I'm open to suggestions but I really REALLY want to keep the head on the block and be able to bolt on a stock intake mani. Without that it's not really a project I care to build.

[Hot_Wheels]

this is awesome! keep up the good work!