Headlight bulb retaining ring

[jfd64]

I have 8 oem with all of the fingers and 4 that are still usable with missing fingers i can offer for sale if there is interest.I think the Dorman fits aftermarket headlights.I have one like it on a headlight that doesn't fit my oem headlights.

[tooldude]

How much for that little jewel?

[jfd64]

I value them at 10.00 each shipped for the ones with all of the fingers.2 for 10 shipped for the ones that have fingers missing.

[jfd64]

Tool dude check your in box to see if you have exceeded the limit.No these are not brand new but used and fully intact.

[tooldude]

Sorry for a delay, I went out to to look at one of mine. Send me 2 good ones I'm not sure how long mine will last. Send your payment info. Thanks.

[jfd64]

Ok i will pm my info .

[Studebaker]

Does anyone know if other cars used this same ring?

[F3BZ]

don't know but i'm going to make it a point to have one with me on my next visit to the JY and allow some time to compare it with ones found on any mazdas and other fords. if that don't work i'll move onto other makes.

[vectormechanic]

Thanks, F3BZ, I was just noticing that. Hey - Pittsburgh?? Me too.

So here's an update: The ring has a row of 3 nubs and 6 tangs on the inner surface. The tangs break off but the nubs do not. To fab a decent bulb retainer, the precision of these 3 locking nubs is far more critical than the tangs, which is why it is important NOT to throw away your rings if the tangs break. The nubs are what cam and lock in the ring while the tangs press and hold the socket forward so that the o-ring on the bulb seals. To do this, the tangs deflect, providing preload.

So what I did so far (I plan to do a better job later but for now I am just trying to pass inspection so I can get us a washing machine asap) - I cleaned the inner wall of the ring of molding burrs with my pocket lockblade knife, BUT I DID NOT CLEAN OFF WHAT WAS LEFT OF MY TANGS, which are all broken off but have some slight remaining protrusions.

Then using rather primitive methods (knife, snips, drill press, internal grinder, grinding wheel) formed PETE washers from empty cashew container bottoms (the square, clear plastic jars of nuts that cost like $12), ID 1.175 in., OD about same as inner surface of original retaining ring.

Then I installed the bulb, slid an old o-ring from a discarded bulb onto the installed bulb where the tangs would normally contact, popped the washer I made into the retaining ring, past the nubs and up against what had been left of the tangs, installed the ring, pushed on the socket.

I will post again when I get around to making the real deal.

[F3BZ]

NAPA lists a ring but it seems out of stock. however they show other vehicles that this Festiva ring will fit and according to their guide, it should also fit: Dodge/Chrys Voyager, Caravan, Town&Country. Ford Econolines, Excursion, Ranger. Mercury Topaz, Tracer. maybe they're blowin smoke. i don't have any of these vehicles in the driveway to check right now. maybe someone here does. for reference the Festiva ring is: OD - 2.4". ID - 1.236". H - .623" with 3 locking nubs and 6 sets of fingers. keep in mind the ones from the other listed vehicles might not be an EXACT match as i suspect NAPA would sell a generic fits-alot part. still it should be close enough to hold the bulb in place.

[F3BZ]

this popped up on ebay. looks correct. only cost $5 to find out.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Halogen-Bulb-Retainer-for-Ford-Festiva-Honda-Civic-CRX-Mazda-626/272308830327?_trksid=p2045573.c100033.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D35375%26meid%3Da8d781b5c3ef47639b42c4c7ea1b5178%26pid%3D100033%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D8%26sd%3D272308830327

[bravekozak]

Time to check Honda stock too.

[AlaskaFestivaGuy]

I notice that the above eBay post says "New condition," not "New." Could still be NOS quarter-century-old brittle plastic.

I know (and have used) a really good precision machinist. If he could make a mold for these, does anybody know what kind of plastic would be required and how it would be used, i.e. does it have to be heated up, or does it come in liquid form and hardens when exposed to air or ... ?

Or ... perhaps suitable parts could simply be machined out of, say, aluminum?

[1990new]

If you look at the number on the ring 50(42416) this part appears to be the Dorman Help part 42416 which is now missing
from the products listed on the Droman Help site.
http://www.finddormanhelp.com/Search...ulb%20retainer

I'd say $5 is a good price for this part in new condition.
Seller has sold over 6,000 items and has a 99.9% rating.
With shipping and fees removed the seller will be lucky to net a buck or two.
Looks like the last one like this sold on ebay was about twice that.

[1990new]

Thanks, F3BZ, I was just noticing that. Hey - Pittsburgh?? Me too.

So here's an update: The ring has a row of 3 nubs and 6 tangs on the inner surface. The tangs break off but the nubs do not. To fab a decent bulb retainer, the precision of these 3 locking nubs is far more critical than the tangs, which is why it is important NOT to throw away your rings if the tangs break. The nubs are what cam and lock in the ring while the tangs press and hold the socket forward so that the o-ring on the bulb seals. To do this, the tangs deflect, providing preload.

So what I did so far (I plan to do a better job later but for now I am just trying to pass inspection so I can get us a washing machine asap) - I cleaned the inner wall of the ring of molding burrs with my pocket lockblade knife, BUT I DID NOT CLEAN OFF WHAT WAS LEFT OF MY TANGS, which are all broken off but have some slight remaining protrusions.

Then using rather primitive methods (knife, snips, drill press, internal grinder, grinding wheel) formed PETE washers from empty cashew container bottoms (the square, clear plastic jars of nuts that cost like $12), ID 1.175 in., OD about same as inner surface of original retaining ring.

Then I installed the bulb, slid an old o-ring from a discarded bulb onto the installed bulb where the tangs would normally contact, popped the washer I made into the retaining ring, past the nubs and up against what had been left of the tangs, installed the ring, pushed on the socket.

I will post again when I get around to making the real deal.

Ingenious!!! "Necessity is the mother of invention"