Valve Cover Bolts

[SWRT]

I've used mine tons of times. I just used it a few weeks ago to fix the alternator
threads that were stripped. I love that place.

[jawja jim]

Might want get HF's left hand drill set, about $8, and just going slowly might ease it out. It worked for me getting a broken cam gear bolt. Depends on if you're able to get a good clean pilot hole started, then change to LH. Plenty of PB blaster won't hurt.

[Hecka]

I just drilled pilot holes in the FOUR bolts that sheered off... yeah all four corners of the valve cover broke off. The only two that would be holding it in place would be the bolts in the middle front and middle back of the valve cover. Either way, I'll be going off to HF to get the extractor kit. I'd rather get that than a left hand drill set, just because I know the extractor set will work with minimal effort.

[Hecka]

Oh, by the way, here's a picture to best show my ordeal.

The red circles show the broken off bolts that I drilled pilot holes into, the yellow circle shows the bolt that feels stripped in the rocker arm assembly, and the blue circle shows the modification I did to the intake manifold to allow me to pull off the valve cover without having to take off the manifold.

[jaketlong11]

Oh, by the way, here's a picture to best show my ordeal.

The red circles show the broken off bolts that I drilled pilot holes into, the yellow circle shows the bolt that feels stripped in the rocker arm assembly, and the blue circle shows the modification I did to the intake manifold to allow me to pull off the valve cover without having to take off the manifold.

you know you can turn the engine over until all the rockers are out of the way. and the one that's still sticking out use vice grips to turn it out.

[Hecka]

you know you can turn the engine over until all the rockers are out of the way. and the one that's still sticking out use vice grips to turn it out.

I don't understand what the first part of your comment means, but I did try vice grips on that one bolt that's sticking out, and it still wouldn't turn for me. If the extractor doesn't work, I may have to file the bolt flat on two sides and try using the vice grips on it again.

[Dragonhealer]

Might want get HF's left hand drill set, about $8, and just going slowly might ease it out. It worked for me getting a broken cam gear bolt. Depends on if you're able to get a good clean pilot hole started, then change to LH. Plenty of PB blaster won't hurt.

+1 ^
using a center punch to get a good place to start the drill will help loosen it too.
My oldest Mazda manual states 5-7 lb/ft.

[TominMO]

Oh, by the way, here's a picture to best show my ordeal.

The red circles show the broken off bolts that I drilled pilot holes into, the yellow circle shows the bolt that feels stripped in the rocker arm assembly, and the blue circle shows the modification I did to the intake manifold to allow me to pull off the valve cover without having to take off the manifold.

The blue-circle mod is unnecessary. The reason it can be difficult to get the VC off is that the #3 intake valve is in the up (closed) position. Just rotate the motor until that valve drops (i.e. valve is open), and the cover will come off. I just put it in 5th and move the car a few inches.

[Hecka]

The blue-circle mod is unnecessary. The reason it can be difficult to get the VC off is that the #3 intake valve is in the up (closed) position. Just rotate the motor until that valve drops (i.e. valve is open), and the cover will come off. I just put it in 5th and move the car a few inches.

Ahhh I see, now.. Well the car's already on jack stands with the wheels off, so no can do, there. It was a really easy mod to do so that I don't have to ever worry about what position the motor is in.

[tooldude]

Been there. If the threads are bad where the yellow circle is drawn, and you drill it for a thread insert, the size of drill required is going to cut through the wall and the insert will have no support there. Whether it can still work and hold up to the torque then, IDK . It may be possible to save the head in that case with a small weld there. If you have any bad threads in any of the bores where the cam journals are supported, you will not be able to use an insert because of the projection into the bore. Something that MAY work is a different type of thread repair kit if you can find it. I saw this at an auto parts once. It appears to be an epoxy type material and a release agent. The material is applied to the damaged threads and the release agent is applied to the bolt. When the material sets to the right firmness, the bolt is screwed in to form threads in it. I believe the bolt is then removed to let the material fully harden. The same thing may could be done using JB Weld, after some experimentation. Whether these materials can withstand 20 lb-ft of torque, IDK. If the rocker arm shaft does not have support at all the bolts, it will eventually crack.

[Hecka]

Thanks for the input, tooldude. I will probably eventually need to get a new head. I just tried using the extractor tool. I broke two drill bits(one is stuck inside a bolt), and wasn't able to get any of the bolts to come out... I'm guessing a different head is going to be the answer, in the long run. I have a good valve cover gasket, so I'm going to try and drive with just two bolts securing the valve cover, until I can get a new head. We'll see if the gasket keeps the oil inside...

[sketchman]

Seal it on there with RTV till you can get a new head.

[bravekozak]

How long are the valve cover bolts? 25mm? 30mm? I am always looking for some nice wide flange replacement bolts.

[Dragonhealer]

40mm for B6

[bravekozak]

Thanks. I just bought a couple of packs of bolts on the bay with that info. I will let you know how they look and fit. They look chrome plated in the pic. The head looks like M8 and the flange M10.