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GTX B6T Motor ?'s

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  • GTX B6T Motor ?'s

    I am buying a GTX 1.6l motor to use in my b6t car. I have a b6t now but i want to push in the 250+hp range later on so i want to build the motor for that now while its out. Anyway getting the GTX motor means i would have a nice spare motor laying around for when the time comes. This will be a autocross/daily driver so having a spare motor makes me feel better knowing if i need it i have it.


    Anyway is the GTX motor actually any better then the xr2 motor? I have been told the rods are stronger but ARE THEY?
    1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
    1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
    1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
    19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
    1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

  • #2
    Yes. They are gusseted on the big end. You likely will never see the difference between the 2 at the power you are working for. The xr2 rod is the same part used in the BG GTX as well. The BF GTX rods certainly won't hurt you other than the additional rotating mass. The GTR rods are even wider. Mazda saw a need for bigger rods due to the heavy racing the motors would be seeing.

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    • #3
      0.0 where did you find such a thing>>>

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      • #4
        Originally posted by mikemounlio View Post
        I am buying a GTX 1.6l motor to use in my b6t car. I have a b6t now but i want to push in the 250+hp range later on so i want to build the motor for that now while its out. Anyway getting the GTX motor means i would have a nice spare motor laying around for when the time comes. This will be a autocross/daily driver so having a spare motor makes me feel better knowing if i need it i have it.


        Anyway is the GTX motor actually any better then the xr2 motor? I have been told the rods are stronger but ARE THEY?
        Gtx engines are super rare. You going one?

        Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

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        • #5
          Yep. I can't wait

          Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
          1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
          1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
          1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
          19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
          1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

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          • #6
            Why not just put in some manley rods in a b6t block?

            Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

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            • #7
              The GTX / GT motor is exactly the same as the XR2 except for the rods. The oil pan on the GTX is missing a mounting hole due to the awd tranny. They also came with the 22mm short nose crank that was upgraded to the long nose when there was the issue with a bad keyway. This is the same for the Capri up until the Sept build date of the 91 model year when they upgraded to the 27mm big nose cranks. So only kinda rare only if you have a GTX to wrap around the motor. Manley rods are fine for 4-5 hundred bucks. The problem is you don't need them as the g series tranny will not hold the power that those rods will. You can buy GTX rods for less than 200.00.
              Last edited by azgtx; 03-31-2016, 04:18 PM.

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              • #8
                I mainly wanted the motor to use so that the current b6t will be more of a backup. I will daily drive and race the car so having a spare is just a good idea.

                I wanted a second head to try and port it myself.

                I could have just bought parts to make my current motor better but I do have 2 festivas now. Now i have 2 motors...I could do a 2nd build later on or something.


                also with the gtx motor i might go with a bigger turbo on the 2nd part of my build. Might aim for 300WHP. Would be cool to be as fast-ish as a 600cc bike or around that area! The 2nd part of the build is a way away tho. 1st i want the b6t in the car and going good and get used to that power then ill go for more.
                1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
                1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
                1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
                19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
                1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

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                • #9
                  So which version of the crank nose is best? If i use the weaker one will i need to worry about it?

                  Lets say i go bigger turbo and shot for 300hp what would i need to look at then?

                  Thanks for the help guys.
                  1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
                  1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
                  1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
                  19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
                  1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by mikemounlio View Post
                    So which version of the crank nose is best? If i use the weaker one will i need to worry about it?

                    Lets say i go bigger turbo and shot for 300hp what would i need to look at then?

                    Thanks for the help guys.
                    If you're building a motor, it's best to get a crank damper for safety, and there's not allot of options for the small nose crank. It'll handle the power, but I think the issue came with the ac. Ac caused the loads that ruined those cranks

                    Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

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                    • #11
                      Big nose is better but most of the keyway problems is from people not torquing their crank bolt correctly.
                      91GL BP/F3A with boost
                      13.79 @ 100, 2.2 60' on 8 psi and 155R12's

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                      • #12
                        The gtx motor is from an 88 So does that mean its the small nose?

                        Is there a way to tell what crank i have on my xr2 b6t?


                        I didnt plan to do a full rebuilt. I just wanted to do a new head gasket job, studs, water pump, the basic refresh stuff. Looking to keep motor stockish and just run more boost for the most part.

                        open to all ideas tho.
                        1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
                        1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
                        1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
                        19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
                        1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by mikemounlio View Post
                          The gtx motor is from an 88 So does that mean its the small nose?

                          Is there a way to tell what crank i have on my xr2 b6t?


                          I didnt plan to do a full rebuilt. I just wanted to do a new head gasket job, studs, water pump, the basic refresh stuff. Looking to keep motor stockish and just run more boost for the most part.

                          open to all ideas tho.
                          The crank pulley. The small crank has 4 slots in the crank pulley, the big crank has 8.

                          Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

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                          • #14
                            The problem was the crank nose was too short period and coupled with the recommended torque spec being too low. The crank key would work away at the groove causing timing issues then the pulley would slip retarding the timing. The factory fix was the long nose crank and an upgraded bolt and key with a higher torque spec. These were all installed at the dealer only when a warranty job required it. A/C was not the root cause but certainly might have helped. I had a GTX with no a/c that had a replacement long nose crank in it. The Gtx and the Gt in bf trim only came with the 22mm cranks. Any of the B6t's I have owned have been switched to the 27mm cranks.

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                            • #15
                              The Capri had the 22 mm crank up until and thru August of 91. The pulley bolt pattern on the 2 cranks are different. Small is square and 27mm is rectangle and the pulley has more slots..8 iirc.

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