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Bought a B6T Turnkey!

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  • I built one of those years ago for my mom's car (VW JETTA with stainless TT exhaust). It worked just as sketch described.
    Driving for me is neither a right nor a privilege. Driving is my passion, as it was for the people who invented the automobile, the people who paved the first roads and the people who continue to improve the automobile. Please respect this passion.

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    • I hope to get time this weekend to make up something. i am going to just neck down the pipe on the inside. I want to keep the open exhaust tho.


      Any way to add more fuel with current ecu (rocketchip). Any other ways around it besides getting an all new stand alone system? I will be upgrading in the near future to a gt2554r so for now i just want to be safe for when i hit boost creep.


      If i cant add more fuel some how i might just go back to stock exhaust and be unhappily safe.
      1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
      1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
      1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
      19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
      1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

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      • FMU. It installs in the return line to raise fuel pressure under boost. It's totally mechanical, so it doesn't care what ECU you use.
        sketchman
        I Spend Too Much Time Here
        Last edited by sketchman; 04-20-2016, 08:05 AM.
        Any difference that makes no difference is no difference.

        Old Blue- New Tricks
        91 Festiva FSM PDF - Dropbox

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        • FMU's are designed to be used in naturally aspirated setups I think.

          Like I said on FB you need to address the weak points before adding more power.
          91GL BP/F3A with boost
          13.79 @ 100, 2.2 60' on 8 psi and 155R12's

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          • More methanol injection

            Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

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            • Originally posted by bhearts View Post
              More methanol injection

              Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
              Im gonna check to see if i can switch out the meth nozzle on the car for the nozzle i bought. Also will look at switching out the switch with mine. Ill leave the tank and pump as they are mounted and working fine.
              1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
              1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
              1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
              19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
              1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

              Comment


              • Originally posted by mikemounlio View Post
                Im gonna check to see if i can switch out the meth nozzle on the car for the nozzle i bought. Also will look at switching out the switch with mine. Ill leave the tank and pump as they are mounted and working fine.
                You were looking at 10 psi switches? I think that's a good level. I don't think anyone should go lower than 2gph but that's just me. Extra water would ensure you're not running too hot in cylinder. Do you have a check valve in line to your nozzle? That would ensure your nozzle doesn't keep spraying when the pump shuts off. When I get my injection system going, I'm running 1-2gph per cylinder, and the nozzles are going in the runners. I'll probably mix my methanol and water in an 75/25 methanol to water, so I don't have too much water going in.

                Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

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                • If you do the math on it, your b6t fuel injectors at peak torque might be spraying 5gph per cylinder. For a 20gph total, if you use a 2gph nozzle, that's only 5 percent fuel volume enrichment, and really only 5/2.3 or around 2 percent actual fuel enrichment from methanol when adjusted for stoichiometrec equivalent. And only 5 percent fuel volume equivalent from water. I can't quote a study, but I've heard about people using 25 percent water volume in comparison to their fuel volume.

                  Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

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                  • A little goes a looooong way with water meth. It doesn't take much to blow the spark out. Also, it needs time to vaporize properly before entering the cylinders or it will be destructive in many ways.

                    Mike, install a wideband air fuel guage before trying at adjust your fuel. Running these engines rich will destroy them just as fast as running them lean, trust me. I've blown 2 up with too much fuel.
                    At 20psi you can have perfect fueling and you'll still blow it up if you do long pulls. The turbo is over spooling drastically and the heat build up in your exhaust manifold and combustion chambers will cause catastrophic failure. Don't run over 16psi on long pulls. This has been proven many many times by lots of b6t enthusiasts.
                    Also, make sure your ignition timing is set right. Retarded ignition on these setups will cause more unburned fuel to enter your exhaust manifold, which will exaggerate the overboost problem and melt your pistons even faster. It's not hard to find pictures of these engines with burned pistons. They run rich stock. Tweak runs in the 11:1 AFR range under 16psi with a stock tune. I'd rather see low 13:1 numbers on a turbo engine. I'm not sure what the Rocket chip will yield you for numbers, but my EL prototypes ECM runs a tad leaner in the mid range and top end than the stock tune. It makes more power, but I'm afraid to run it on the race track because I'm sick of putting engines in Tweak (I'm skeptical about the extra 1000rpm, not the air fuel ratios though.) The stock engine that's in it now has lasted around 50k miles and runs like a top. It's just had its first set of spark plugs replaced.
                    You don't want to guess with your air fuel ratios on a turbo engine. Too much fuel and you'll blow it up, not enough fuel and you'll blow it up. Wideband meters are cheaper than engine rebuilds.
                    Advancedynamix
                    Modifier
                    Last edited by Advancedynamix; 04-20-2016, 03:47 PM.
                    Driving for me is neither a right nor a privilege. Driving is my passion, as it was for the people who invented the automobile, the people who paved the first roads and the people who continue to improve the automobile. Please respect this passion.

                    Comment


                    • With that rant out of the way, the fuel injection on these engines is very tune-able. More fuel pressure and adjusted AFM are one way to add fuel on top, injector size is another. You can use an FMU, but probably won't need that much rate rise.
                      Advancedynamix
                      Modifier
                      Last edited by Advancedynamix; 04-20-2016, 07:40 PM.
                      Driving for me is neither a right nor a privilege. Driving is my passion, as it was for the people who invented the automobile, the people who paved the first roads and the people who continue to improve the automobile. Please respect this passion.

                      Comment


                      • Originally posted by Advancedynamix View Post
                        (I'm skeptical about the extra 1000rpm, not the air fuel ).
                        Which extra 1000? To 7k?

                        Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

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                        • The EL chip tune is good for 7500 rpm. The problem is the intake manifold, exhaust manifold and turbine are all set up for a 5500rpm peak and redline of 6500rpm. That extra 1000rpm puts a lot of stress on the engine due to the excess back pressure from the tiny wastegate and short exhaust manifold design. This is okay for the street or drag racing, but on one track I was pulling 140+ mph once a lap. That's like doing 35 consecutive dyno pulls in a row with no cool down time. It's not easy on things. That's a great track to test out reliability though.
                          Advancedynamix
                          Modifier
                          Last edited by Advancedynamix; 04-20-2016, 07:47 PM.
                          Driving for me is neither a right nor a privilege. Driving is my passion, as it was for the people who invented the automobile, the people who paved the first roads and the people who continue to improve the automobile. Please respect this passion.

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by Advancedynamix View Post
                            The EL chip tune is good for 7500 rpm. The problem is the intake manifold, exhaust manifold and turbine are all set up for a 5500rpm peak and redline of 6500rpm. That extra 1000rpm puts a lot of stress on the engine due to the excess back pressure from the tiny wastegate and short exhaust manifold design. This is okay for the street or drag racing, but on one track I was pulling 140+ mph once a lap. That's like doing 35 consecutive dyno pulls in a row with no cool down time. It's not easy on things. That's a great track to test out reliability though.
                            I feel like the b6t is the only engine that nobody has innovated. I guess the bp is to blame for that.

                            Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

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                            • I have picked up a micro tech ecu! I will be getting help to get the tune going tho. I want to be able to fuel up to 20psi. I will do my best to limit my boost creep to 16-18 max. If i cant i will simply have to govern myself (good luck right)! If i cant get the current exhaust/ wastegate to hold 16 i will have to go back to factory exhaust (puke). I want the ecu to give it fuel even if i go above the 16 mark. I would much rather replace the turbo over the motor. I plan to go to a gt2554r anyway!

                              As for right now i plan to get my rear drums and rims on tonight! I will have it aligned tomorrow to make sure my alignment is spot on. I do have toe plates now!
                              1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
                              1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
                              1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
                              19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
                              1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

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                              • I have a new idea on the exhaust! I want to get some 2" exhaust pipe from my local auto store. Also get the adapters to neck down from the current 3" to the 2" (all on the inside on the 3" pipe). I will weld them all up to make sure they cant come apart. I could drill several holes in the 2" pipe. Make the pipe around 8" long+ the length to adapt to the 3" id. I could slide the new 2" pipe with adapters on it down the 3" pipe and weld it in.

                                I would tack all the parts together and just slide them in 1st to check the sound and make sure it is good.

                                Would just making the exhaust neck down to 2" do anything as far as boost creep tho? If the down pipe (current modified one) is so open would modification to the end of the exhaust really help it any.
                                1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
                                1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
                                1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
                                19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
                                1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

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