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  • I have had plenty of seat time in the car now! With the current exhaust the car is a time bomb. I can feel the power come on around the 12psi mark and anything over 16 is just the same. I cant stay in the power for very long due to the boost creep. I would say the car can go much much faster once the stock down pipe is back in place. I cant feel any power gain over the 1st good surge of power because i have to let out so fast. I wont notice any power loss going back to the stock exhaust because ill be able to use more of whats actually there rather then feeling one crazy amount of pull for a split second.

    This weekend should be a good time to really get into the car and fine tune it.

    I do think i have changed my mind on the gt2554r to the 2560 tho. In the future when i go to a big turbo (haha thats funny- big turbo) i think i will go with the 2560 to have the extra up top power vs the low end. I am still on the fence tho. Once i have this car back closer to normal boost levels that may change my mind.

    I do love this car tho. It is crazy fun to drive. The suspension from charlie plus some actual power is one amazing combo. Its so much fun to pull through a turn!
    1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
    1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
    1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
    19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
    1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

    Comment


    • Originally posted by mikemounlio View Post
      I have had plenty of seat time in the car now! With the current exhaust the car is a time bomb. I can feel the power come on around the 12psi mark and anything over 16 is just the same. I cant stay in the power for very long due to the boost creep. I would say the car can go much much faster once the stock down pipe is back in place. I cant feel any power gain over the 1st good surge of power because i have to let out so fast. I wont notice any power loss going back to the stock exhaust because ill be able to use more of whats actually there rather then feeling one crazy amount of pull for a split second.

      This weekend should be a good time to really get into the car and fine tune it.

      I do think i have changed my mind on the gt2554r to the 2560 tho. In the future when i go to a big turbo (haha thats funny- big turbo) i think i will go with the 2560 to have the extra up top power vs the low end. I am still on the fence tho. Once i have this car back closer to normal boost levels that may change my mind.

      I do love this car tho. It is crazy fun to drive. The suspension from charlie plus some actual power is one amazing combo. Its so much fun to pull through a turn!
      Sounds like you need a nice long tube header like hotwheels got.

      Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

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      • I need a picture of this!

        Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
        1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
        1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
        1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
        19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
        1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

        Comment


        • Festicle and xaero

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          • Also, if your plans are the 2560r, plan on a different intake manifold and throttle body setup, and a more aggressive set of cams. Otherwise your just sacrificing response for nothing. The system must be balanced. Just throwing a bigger compressor at it won't help. The 2554R is perfectly matched to the stock curve, but has the versatility to utilize a better intake manifold and camshaft package. These engines were detuned from the factory with the cams and intake manifold that was put on them. It's easy to see this when you compare the U.S. b6t intake manifold to the JDM part, or the miata manifold.
            Driving for me is neither a right nor a privilege. Driving is my passion, as it was for the people who invented the automobile, the people who paved the first roads and the people who continue to improve the automobile. Please respect this passion.

            Comment


            • Originally posted by Advancedynamix View Post
              Also, if your plans are the 2560r, plan on a different intake manifold and throttle body setup, and a more aggressive set of cams. Otherwise your just sacrificing response for nothing. The system must be balanced. Just throwing a bigger compressor at it won't help. The 2554R is perfectly matched to the stock curve, but has the versatility to utilize a better intake manifold and camshaft package. These engines were detuned from the factory with the cams and intake manifold that was put on them. It's easy to see this when you compare the U.S. b6t intake manifold to the JDM part, or the miata manifold.
              What cams Charlie. And what do performance cams on turbo engines do? More lift, or different durations?

              Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

              Comment


              • Originally posted by Advancedynamix View Post
                Also, if your plans are the 2560r, plan on a different intake manifold and throttle body setup, and a more aggressive set of cams. Otherwise your just sacrificing response for nothing. The system must be balanced. Just throwing a bigger compressor at it won't help. The 2554R is perfectly matched to the stock curve, but has the versatility to utilize a better intake manifold and camshaft package. These engines were detuned from the factory with the cams and intake manifold that was put on them. It's easy to see this when you compare the U.S. b6t intake manifold to the JDM part, or the miata manifold.
                I may stick to the 2554r! Im just not sure how much power i can actually get out of it! Each time i go looking for dyno charts i get numbers all over the place. I would like to just have my stock cams reground. Buy a exhaust manifold and pay for a custom intake manifold and call it good. Build 2 is a ways off still yet! Gotta start build 1, gotta get my new car under control, gotta finish up other projects! So i have plenty of time to bother you guys with 1000 more questions until then.
                1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
                1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
                1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
                19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
                1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

                Comment


                • So to the guys that really know the mazda motors where is the general question i have (and have started another thread on).

                  I have a mazda 1.6 from a gtx- block, head, intake mani as well as a full capri 1.6L turbo setup. i want to run the capri and its trans in my next build. It will be ran in autocross and daily driven. i want to do good in autocross but dont care about winning 1st every time. I do want good power for the street tho. More then the b6t stock on 16psi that is. I also have a programmable ecu now. I could also go to a mega squirt system.

                  What would you do? I dont mind to spend money on it! But i dont want to have to sell my house for it...
                  1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
                  1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
                  1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
                  19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
                  1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

                  Comment


                  • Originally posted by mikemounlio View Post
                    So to the guys that really know the mazda motors where is the general question i have (and have started another thread on).

                    I have a mazda 1.6 from a gtx- block, head, intake mani as well as a full capri 1.6L turbo setup. i want to run the capri and its trans in my next build. It will be ran in autocross and daily driven. i want to do good in autocross but dont care about winning 1st every time. I do want good power for the street tho. More then the b6t stock on 16psi that is. I also have a programmable ecu now. I could also go to a mega squirt system.

                    What would you do? I dont mind to spend money on it! But i dont want to have to sell my house for it...
                    Rev to the moon.

                    Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

                    Comment


                    • OK but how?

                      Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
                      1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
                      1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
                      1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
                      19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
                      1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

                      Comment


                      • Get your rotating assembly balanced. Get a nice crank damper. Modified intake manifold. Long tube exhaust. Tubeable ecu and you're ready to go. Maybe whatever cam Charlie thinks is decent.What rpm are you shifting at now

                        Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
                        Last edited by bhearts; 04-27-2016, 11:39 AM.

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                        • Originally posted by bhearts View Post
                          Get your rotating assembly balanced. Get a nice crank damper. Modified intake manifold. Long tube exhaust. Tubeable ecu and you're ready to go. Maybe whatever cam Charlie thinks is decent.What rpm are you shifting at now

                          Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
                          Ha um 12! My exhaust is not right. Once i fix it ill let you know. But at the moment its a rocket chip and can go to 7200. I have not really pushed much yet due to the boost creep issue. Which i hope to fix soon
                          1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
                          1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
                          1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
                          19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
                          1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by bhearts View Post
                            What cams Charlie. And what do performance cams on turbo engines do? More lift, or different durations?

                            Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
                            Several companies make different options for cams on the DOHC b6 engine. HKS, TODA, and OBX are the most common.
                            Cam tuning on a turbo engine is very similar to tuning for a naturally aspirated engine. The days of fearing overlap ended with modern turbine and wastegate technology that no longer requires the exhaust pressure that was once necessary to make boost.
                            Many of the theories and problems that have become "common knowledge", in turbo literature and in the automotive community, are outdated. There once was a need for custom "turbo" cam grinds. For the last decade or more I've found more power in tuning turbo engines as they were NA.
                            Driving for me is neither a right nor a privilege. Driving is my passion, as it was for the people who invented the automobile, the people who paved the first roads and the people who continue to improve the automobile. Please respect this passion.

                            Comment


                            • Originally posted by Advancedynamix View Post
                              Several companies make different options for cams on the DOHC b6 engine. HKS, TODA, and OBX are the most common.
                              Cam tuning on a turbo engine is very similar to tuning for a naturally aspirated engine. The days of fearing overlap ended with modern turbine and wastegate technology that no longer requires the exhaust pressure that was once necessary to make boost.
                              Many of the theories and problems that have become "common knowledge", in turbo literature and in the automotive community, are outdated. There once was a need for custom "turbo" cam grinds. For the last decade or more I've found more power in tuning turbo engines as they were NA.
                              OK so new cams which means i should get new springs and such. I might as well get the heads basic ported bowl blended and springs and such set up by a shop i know. I could have bp specialty make me an intake. How would a ram horn style exhaust mani work out for me? Then run a 2560 or a 2554 with custom tune.
                              1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
                              1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
                              1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
                              19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
                              1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

                              Comment


                              • Originally posted by mikemounlio View Post
                                I may stick to the 2554r! Im just not sure how much power i can actually get out of it! Each time i go looking for dyno charts i get numbers all over the place. I would like to just have my stock cams reground. Buy a exhaust manifold and pay for a custom intake manifold and call it good. Build 2 is a ways off still yet! Gotta start build 1, gotta get my new car under control, gotta finish up other projects! So i have plenty of time to bother you guys with 1000 more questions until then.
                                In my opinion, you should put a full exhaust on this car and leave it alone. Build your other car. Here are some reasons why.
                                1: For serious performance, you need to move your engine forward and run a G series gear box. This will solve your traction problem at the HP levels you want and give you a solid transmission that you can drive without fear of breaking it.
                                2: You've got a nice car that runs and drives. This tuning and learning game usually ends up with a car on blocks in the back yard or cluttering up the garage. Enjoy what you have. If you want more, start fresh.
                                3: 2 turbo festivas, built 2 ways will give you a great comparison to compare the benefits of both setups. You may find that you don't like the extreme build as much as you like the easy to drive stock b6t.

                                One thing you guys need to keep in mind is that a properly built performance car does not feel fast. A properly tuned driveline doesn't blow the tires loose or pull your arms out of their sockets. A properly tuned car is smooth and effortless to drive. The stock B6t with an E series box is going to feel much faster than a properly built car. If you want the car to feel fast then keep what you have.
                                Last edited by Advancedynamix; 04-27-2016, 01:19 PM.
                                Driving for me is neither a right nor a privilege. Driving is my passion, as it was for the people who invented the automobile, the people who paved the first roads and the people who continue to improve the automobile. Please respect this passion.

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