LED driving light bar suggestions

[william]

If you sand enough off there will be clear plastic under there trust me I do it all the time at work to some god awful looking headlights.
The problem is it will keep coming back because uv kills the plastic. I've heard of people clearing them if you clear them use 2k automotive clear only rattle can clear is 1k and will not have the uv resistance of 2k clear. There is 2k available in a can but I've never used it.
If you go hid please do a retrofit with projectors .
You don't wanna be that guy .

[FestYboy]

Oh and just to back my argument: if you look closely at the units I instructed to get, you'd see that they are shielded and motorized. Very much unlike the more common POS hid kits out there that blind oncoming traffic. These units reduce the vertical transmission in both low and high beam position, therefore keeping the light on the ground where it belongs. Most other kits have no shielding and are not motorized because they don't use the xenon bulb for high beam function. This is what causes most of the blinding issue.

I'll be the first one to point out that the aftermarket kits are crap, but this is a very effective and appropriate solution to the poor design and build quality of the aspire headlight housing.

If you go the LED light bar route, be sure to install a spot beam only, the flood and combo units cannot be aimed properly to keep from blinding oncoming traffic.

[ryanprins13]

If you sand enough off there will be clear plastic under there trust me I do it all the time at work to some god awful looking headlights.
The problem is it will keep coming back because uv kills the plastic. I've heard of people clearing them if you clear them use 2k automotive clear only rattle can clear is 1k and will not have the uv resistance of 2k clear. There is 2k available in a can but I've never used it.
If you go hid please do a retrofit with projectors .
You don't wanna be that guy .

^this.
Most led light bars are illegal to use on the highway on, and in the province im in they need to be covered when your on a paved road.

The polish and buffing kits dont work because of what william said.
What i do to bad headlamps: take em out, leave bulbs in. Buy 600 and 800 grit wet sandpaper (not wet and dry) sand with 600 grit under running water in the sink for a very long time. Until you can dry it and the pitts are gone and your through the foggyness.
Then sand those scratches out with 800 grit under water.
Dry, wipe off with alcohol, tape off, spray with 2k rattlecan clearcoat that has UV protection. Dry overnight. Then dry in oven. Then apply 3m tape after a week or so. No more problems and they will stay clear as new.


Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk

[TheZachWilliams]

If you're wanting a lightbar I'd look at Diode Dynamics. Based in STL and all their stuff is designed to be rally tested. Great products!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

[old yellow]

Try again...

Yes the stock bulb for the aspire is 9004 but i will about the kit

[old yellow]

If you're wanting a lightbar I'd look at Diode Dynamics. Based in STL and all their stuff is designed to be rally tested. Great products!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

I will give it a shot! Thanks!

[FestYboy]

Yes the stock bulb for the aspire is 9004 but i will about the kit

I checked it against out bulb guide in the shop and verified that I use 9003 in Bruce (94 SE), and I know for sure it's a 9003 kit in Caety's 96... What light housings are you using that you need a 9004!?

[old yellow]

I checked it against out bulb guide in the shop and verified that I use 9003 in Bruce (94 SE), and I know for sure it's a 9003 kit in Caety's 96... What light housings are you using that you need a 9004!?

The stock housings from factory.... will take a photo of what bulbs I use tomorrow

[FestYboy]

Please do, I know Festivas use 9004, so now my curiosity is piqued.