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Hi! Just bought a Festiva, figured I found the place to talk about it

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  • #16
    Originally posted by CyberEric View Post
    It could definitely be toe. I haven't had the alignment checked yet. Yeah, I like a lot of neg camber up front on McStrut cars, used to have camber plates on an old BMW and it really woke up the handling. The picture you have is of the back though, do run higher neg camber in the back too?

    Thanks for the tip on the distributor. Once I get things cleaned up around there, I'll have a better idea.
    Are you asking if i also run it in the front or does it not look like much in the rear to you?
    I have -2 degrees on all the tires. Thats all i could easily get from the stock festiva front struts. And the plastic shims you buy for the rear also got me to -2. Doing the modifications was easy, but this was my first diy wheel alignment and that took forever, lol.


    Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk

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    • #17
      Gotcha, thanks!

      Where do you get the shims for the rear?

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      • #18
        Rockauto. Takes a little bit of work to set, but you measure the toe and camber you have, pick the toe and camber you want on the paper you get with the shim and it shows you where to cut the shims.
        RockAuto ships auto parts and body parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers' doors worldwide, all at warehouse prices. Easy to use parts catalog.


        Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk

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        • #19
          Thanks!

          What are the go-to power mods for this car, if there are any? I mean bolt-ons, not swaps. This engine has pretty low miles so I'd like to keep it and tweak it. After all, just 12 hp is a 20% increase!

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          • #20
            Originally posted by CyberEric View Post
            Thanks!

            What are the go-to power mods for this car, if there are any? I mean bolt-ons, not swaps. This engine has pretty low miles so I'd like to keep it and tweak it. After all, just 12 hp is a 20% increase!
            Hardly anyone does work to the stock engine. Its pretty difficult and/or expensive to get more power out of it. the only bolt ons would be custom intake and exhaust manifolds that might togeather get you 12-15% for like $300 a piece plus shipping.
            what most do for more power is a swap to a b6. 35% power increase, its bolt in and usually cheap. everything runs off festiva parts.

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            • #21
              Thanks, that's what I figured. I might do a custom intake or something myself. I like this little engine, and it's got low miles, so I hate to pull it already. Maybe when I have more income I'll try the custom header.

              Any idea if a B6 head would fit on the B3 without valve clearance issues?
              Last edited by CyberEric; 03-07-2018, 07:29 PM.

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              • #22
                Originally posted by CyberEric View Post
                Thanks, that's what I figured. I might do a custom intake or something myself. I like this little engine, and it's got low miles, so I hate to pull it already. Maybe when I have more income I'll try the custom header.

                Any idea if a B6 head would fit on the B3 without valve clearance issues?
                1. No point doing anything to the intake at all without also doing an exhaust header too. The one thing you can do, which is also free, is drill holes in the bottom airbox piece to increase airflow/improve breathing at higher rpm, like over 4000 or so. A cone filter does nothing that drilling the holes doesn't already do. Even the stock filter has plenty of airflow capability if clean, and unrestricted by the airbox itself.

                2. A gen1 (1986 - 89) B6 SOHC exhaust manifold bolts directly to the B3 head, and flows better. That could be the basis for a very cheap, noticeably improved exhaust system for a B3, like with 2.25" pipe for example. The later B6 head has its upper, outer exhaust manifold studs in a slightly more outboard location than the early manifolds, by about 1/2" IIRC, so not usable for a B3.
                Last edited by TominMO; 03-08-2018, 03:05 PM.
                90 Festy (Larry)--B6M (Matt D. modified B6 head), header, 5-speed, Capri XR2 front brakes, many other little mods
                09 Kia Rondo--a Festy on steroids!

                You can avoid reality, but you can't avoid the consequences of avoiding reality--Ayn Rand

                Disaster preparedness

                Tragedy and Hope.....Infowars.com.....The Drudge Report.....Founding Fathers.info

                Think for yourself.....question all authority.....re-evaluate everything you think you know. Red-pill yourself!

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by TominMO View Post
                  1. No point doing anything to the intake at all without also doing an exhaust header too. The one thing you can do, which is also free, is drill holes in the bottom airbox piece to increase airflow/improve breathing at higher rpm, like over 4000 or so. A cone filter does nothing that drilling the holes doesn't already do. Even the stock filter has plenty of airflow capability if clean, and unrestricted by the airbox itself.

                  2. A gen1 (1986 - 89) B6 SOHC exhaust manifold bolts directly to the B3 head, and flows better. That could be the basis for a very cheap, noticeably improved exhaust system for a B3, like with 2.25" pipe for example. The later B6 head has its upper, outer exhaust manifold studs in a slightly more outboard location than the early manifolds, by about 1/2" IIRC, so not usable for a B3.
                  TominMO, that's fantastic information, thank you very much! Exactly the type of tip I was looking for!

                  Is that an exhaust manifold from a first-gen B6 from any car, be it Mazda, Ford or Kia?

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                  • #24
                    [/QUOTE]

                    Grizzly5984, I'd love to hear how the Federals work.

                    [/QUOTE]

                    Been driving on the Federals this week every morning. Smooth as butter, even at 70. At around 75 there is a tiny shimmy in the steering wheel. If I didn't drive it before the new tires I don't think I'd have noticed it. I love em so far!


                    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by CyberEric View Post
                      TominMO, that's fantastic information, thank you very much! Exactly the type of tip I was looking for!

                      Is that an exhaust manifold from a first-gen B6 from any car, be it Mazda, Ford or Kia?
                      It will come from a 1986 - 89 Mazda 323 or an 1987 - 89 Mercury Tracer.
                      90 Festy (Larry)--B6M (Matt D. modified B6 head), header, 5-speed, Capri XR2 front brakes, many other little mods
                      09 Kia Rondo--a Festy on steroids!

                      You can avoid reality, but you can't avoid the consequences of avoiding reality--Ayn Rand

                      Disaster preparedness

                      Tragedy and Hope.....Infowars.com.....The Drudge Report.....Founding Fathers.info

                      Think for yourself.....question all authority.....re-evaluate everything you think you know. Red-pill yourself!

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        ^Thanks!

                        Is there a common exhaust rattle on these cars? I checked the hangers and they all look okay, but the car emits a rattle that sounds like a lose exhaust pipe, only in gear.

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                        • #27
                          Check the downpipe. There is sort of a sheath that goes over it that rattles

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                          • #28
                            I suggest that you check the following 3 things which may lead you to the source of your vibration:
                            1. Make sure the downpipe connection at the exhaust manifold is not leaking
                            2. Make sure the clamp that connects the downpipe to the bracket just in front and under the bottom pan is secure.
                            3. Make sure that none of the exhaust pipe and muffler connections are leaking (especially around the donut seal in front of the cat

                            And if it is the sheath around the downpipe, you can secure it with a hose clamps.
                            Last edited by 1990new; 03-12-2018, 02:24 PM.

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                            • #29
                              Thanks, I'll check that out.

                              One other thing, how do I tell what the trim level is? This thing has virtually no options, so I'm guessing it's whatever the stripper trim is.

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                              • #30
                                Originally posted by CyberEric View Post
                                Thanks, I'll check that out.

                                One other thing, how do I tell what the trim level is? This thing has virtually no options, so I'm guessing it's whatever the stripper trim is.
                                For the 1991 Festiva, position 6-7 of your vin number will be 05 for L or 06 for GL.

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