Out of gas, now won't restart...

[Vance]

I've pulled all three fuseable links, checked for continuity, cleaned contact areas and reinstalled and still no spark from the coil.

Any new ideas?

Thanks,
Vance

[Gro Harlem]

crank it, then pull the plugs...are they covered w/fuel?

Is it still not getting spark?

I dunno what to really suggest other than narrowing it down to fuel or spark. Otehr possibility is a torn airhose but you said its carbed right? I dont' think it matters w/carb since there isn't that according air hose w/them

[Vance]

As mentioned in my ninth and eleventh reply on this thread, it's got gas and the fuel system is working completely. The fuel pump is working and the carb it getting gas.

After changing the coil along with the cap, rotor, plugs and wires there is STILL NO SPARK FROM THE COIL GOING TO THE DISTRIBUTOR CAP. I don't like to yell, but a lot of what I'm typing seems to be going unread, which is just as frustrating as the problem itself. I've run a jumper from the positive battery post to the positive side of the coil and still no spark.

Vance

[oxbrain]

is there a current on the low voltage line to the coil?

[FB71]

take a test light, put it on the negative side of the coil. Turn the key on, it should be lit. Crank the engine while watching the light, it should flash. If it doesn't, you probably need an ignition module.

just a thought.... how's your timing belt?

I had a customer put all kinds of ignition parts on an Escort, only to discover a broken camshaft. Cracked between cylinders 3 and 4. Sounded like it had compression, but the distributor wasn't turning....

[Vance]

When I got the car the timing belt was the first thing I checked as I was told it didn't run when I was given the car. The belt is fine as the car has been driven almost 500 miles since I fgot it. And yes, I did check that this last go around as well.

I ran a test light as FB71 suggested and I got a solid light with the key on and a flashing light while cranking the motor over.

Now what? I'm really getting bummed here. Anyone live close to Dayton, OH and up for a road trip?

Vance

[Vance]

Finally drug the Festy to Precision Tune and paid them to diagnos the problem. As I suspected and others sugessted, the stater inside the ditsributor was toast. They recommended me replace the whole dist as it would cost more in labor to dismantle the it and reinstall a new stater. So that's what I did. They wanted to charge me $299 for the dist and another $77 to install. I bought the new dist from Advanced Auto for $154 out the door and was up and running in no time.

Now on to fixing other things like the e-brake cable, radio A/C and driver's side mirror...

Thanks for all the help, it was truly appreciated.

Vance

[rotinaj13]

and when/if it turns out to not be the fuses or the coil or a connection issue it is that little soild state electronic hall effect sensor inside the disty. it cost around 120. they suck. I have went through 3 of them thus far.