1990 lots and lots of issues

[Cdubb]

I picked up three Festivas in the fall, two 90s and a 89 carby. Been tinkering with one of the 90s and man do I have a long list of issues. Maybe the powers that be can offer guidance. I have replaced the fuseable links with fuses, drained the fuel tank and fuel lines.

No spark fuel pump not engaging: It has a new fuel pump and coil, unsure of testing VAF or what all that would effect, have ICM on the way. Fuel pump relay looks to be be new, timing belt is still there. First time I attempted to start it with ether it ran for a maybe a few seconds and stopped and hasn't fired since, motor sounded good in that time tho.

No running lights on passenger side: front bulb was blown replaced it and now the rear doesn't work either. Is this just strange timing or some other issue?

Vibrating sound near but under driver side headlight: This happens only when the headlights are turned on, it changes tone when brights are on. Almost sounded like the washer pump freaking out but I don't think that's it.

No headlights high or low: Have put good bulbs in and I get nothing besides the noise mentioned above

No radio: won't even light up or flicker, not real important now but figured I'd add it in case in can be linked to something else.

Wipers barely move: and I mean they take a minute to cover an inch, I assume the motor is shot

Theres other stuff I'll mention once I can get it running but sitting really hurt this car. I'd like to use it as a commuter vehicle if I can ever track down all these gremlins it's has. Any advice is welcome

[Studebaker]

Ing. switch could be going bad. The only single thing that could cause all your problems.

First thing I would do is get the car to run. Try putting 12v directy to fuel pump to see if it will start. You should see 30 psi at the fuel rail.

[WmWatt]

Lubricate, lubricate, lubricate. Spray WD-40 into the ignition key hole and work it in with the key. Also spray into light switch and wiper switch. Spray WD-40 around the wiper joints to get them moving. Spray WD-40 into light sockets and scrub with steel wool or similar to remove crorosion. Bend tabs up to ensure good connection. Clean, clean, clean. Have fun.

PS Pull and inspect all the fuses in the inside fuse panel near the driver's door.

PPS Assume battery has been charged and posts cleaned. Do you have volt meter or test light or both?

[Cdubb]

Thanks for the advice!

So to clarify the ignition switch is in the key cylinder for the ignition?

The fuel pump is out of the tank but all wired in, just run some leads off another car battery to supply 12v I assume?

I popped a few fuses and relays they all checked out good. On relays if they have a rattle they are bad correct?

Yes the battery is charged and terminals/post are clean. The terminals kinda suck and will get replaced but they are held taught with vice grips.

I do have a volt meter and test light also

[WmWatt]

"So to clarify the ignition switch is in the key cylinder for the ignition?" - Yes, on the steering column

[Studebaker]

The switch itself is on the back side of the cyl.

[Icedawg]

I just pulled the fusable link wire the fuse block marked "head", that is headlights, to get power for the timing light.
When I put the link back in, I did not get headlights, I got a bad buzzing racket from the relays near the driver side headlight.
Sounds a bit like one of your problems.
I took sandpaper and a small file to the two prongs inside the fusable link block and it fixed the problem. Must have been corroded.
If cleaning them up on the head fusable link position fixes your lights, then you should clean the other two also. They might be contributing to your problems.

[1990new]

Fuel pump is out of the tank but all wired up ??? Please do not make sparks or have any source of flame near the fuel tank. Gas fumes in the tank can explode violently.
Also, before checking fuel lines that connect to the engine, make sure you have a fire extinguisher nearby.
You can get little wire brushes that fit a dremel or similar mini tool... to clean to electrical contacts.

[Cdubb]

Ok so we have no power to the coil, changed ICM no change. We are getting no continuity between the prongs on the fuse box on the strut tower. I cleaned the prongs more and used dielectric grease and still no change. Also shot some WD in the key hole and worked it around and also no change.

Now what?

[Cdubb]

Double post

[WmWatt]

Um, dielectric paste is an insulator. It stops electricity from flowing. Washing with WD-40 or contact cleaner or solvent should take it off. I don't know exactly how electricity gets from the battery to the coil but that's what I would look at to see what's stopping it.

[Icedawg]

Ok so we have no power to the coil, changed ICM no change. We are getting no continuity between the prongs on the fuse box on the strut tower. I cleaned the prongs more and used dielectric grease and still no change. Also shot some WD in the key hole and worked it around and also no change.

Now what?

I do not quite follow. The two prongs in the fuse box for each pair gain their continuity via the fuse attached to them. So when you say they have no continuity I can't quite tell what you mean.
One side should be hot, with the fuses out but the battery connected. The other side should not, until the fuse is in place.

If neither side is hot, then your connection to the battery is faulty.
If one side is hot, and with a fuse in place the other side is not, then the fuse of the connection pins or the wiring is faulty.

(I understand you might have just used phrasing I did not follow, and that what I say above is what you had meant, but thought I would check.)

[Cdubb]

Icedawg Yes I was testing incorrectly, i have one prong that is loose so I wasn't sure if it was going to work that's why I figured testing continuity was needed. but I tested it today as you suggested and I have 14.8V on one side of each fuse.

So i did this test with the fuses out, sounds like they need to be in for a proper diagnosis, correct?

[Studebaker]

Make sure the fuses are good. Install them. Let us know what does not work. Good luck!

[WmWatt]

14.8 is the normal voltage when the engine is running and the alternator is generating electricity to charge the battery, called the charging voltage. when the engine is not running the voltage is closer to 12 volts which is what the battery delivers by itself.