93 festiva GL 2 automatic Not starting( ignition system ?)

[danf6975]

ok just a quick question
are the fuseable links all suposed to show 12 volts on either side of the link?

i have 3 wires the first one from lest to right is brown and getting around 4 volts on either side with the key in the run position
the second or middle one is black and labelled main and gets 12 volts on both sides with the key in the run position
the third is brown again and labelled head and gets 4 volts or less on either side.

now when i tug on them slightly they do not loosen but i havent taken them out yet to take a better look.
i ordered the expencive ignition control module and if it isnt that or this fusible link then i will be at a real loss ,

[88festiva1.3l]

yes

[88festiva1.3l]

yes
i think if i'm right use pb blaster so they slide out easy use electric static cleaner then buy a small pack of electric gell so they dont ever corrod and re insert the wires back in there place but yeah that part is your prblem trust me i had that issue after i bought my car

[danf6975]

ok cleaned the fuseable links and tested them with my volt meter ( set at 200 ohm it read .2 -.4 ) and put them back in along with cleaning the box. it was filthy and corroded but not the problem =(

later on today the ignition control unit will be in at autozone so will give that a try

[danf6975]

ok im at a loss .

what voltage should be coming out of the coil and through the main lead? is it 10-12 volts or should it be much higher at that point?

[88festiva1.3l]

12volts
do your self a quick test i ran into this to disconnect battery take the coil off the car including the case and shack it with wires disconnect it if it drips when u turn it upside down your coils is definitly bad another test if that not it check this car with sunroofs is a must i had this issue since my sunroof leaked my car would look power or when ever water touched the computer which i replaced so yeah u have to do a number of check and u might need the wire diagram

[jglutz]

Just a suggestion....Main Relay

[danf6975]

i was told it might be the computer . still have to check the main relay.
was computer diagnosis expencive ? and replacement.

[88festiva1.3l]

no i actually have a set of tools for the festiva since i love my cars so yeah if not sucessful check after the main there might be a break in the wire but yeah i think i have the wire diagram somewhere so when i find it i'll pm u

[danf6975]

i love you guys!<sloth voice from goonies>

[qaking]

danf6975, are you back up and running?

[qaking]

Just following up

[danf6975]

no still not up yet. have to learn how to check the relays and the computer . if i try and have someone here do it it could cost me more than the cost of the car

[88festiva1.3l]

lol
well i have a diagram upstairs brb gona post it

[scitzz]

danf6975, you are from daytona huh? Live there long? I spent over thirty years there, born and raised. It is faintly possible we know each other. Where did you buy that car? Also, have you gone out to the U pull it on intl speedway(92) to see if they have a festy for parts? They used to always have one or two, usually wrecked. There are also a couple of boneyards on center in holly hill, uh, near walker(13th st) if I remember right. They don't seem to ever crush anything till it is completely stripped. CARS (Car Auto Recyclers)in south daytona is a bit pricey, but have tons of stuff noone else does, they strip em down, inventory em, then sell the hull as scrap. They are on reed canal just west of nova rd.
While down in SD, if b4 11am, stop at a lil bar on nova and beville next to office depot and south turn called ages at belnova, order a bloody mary, and tell Mike Paul says wassup God I miss cheap drinks that are strong enough to knock you on your butt in a bar for less than $5

Seriously, if you are gonna just swap parts until you get a fix, junkyards are a friend to your wallet. This is still very expensive, the saying is, diagnose, THEN replace.

Looking through this thread, I have not seen any mention of testing for spark. I would start THERE. Pull out one spark plug, then plug it back into the wire. gripping the boot of the wire, hold the end of the plug near the valve cover, about an 1/8 of an inch away. Have someone crank the key, letting the engine roll over a few times. If you see a nice, bright blue spark, then tada, you have spark, and you have been on the wrong track. If you do not have spark, you work your way backwards from there. WHILE the engine is turning and you are looking for spark, also look for gas to spray from the cylinder coming out from where you have removed the plug. If you hold your finger by that hole, while the engine is turning, it SHOULD get wet. If not, you may need to figure out why. If you do these simple tests, and post back, we can go from there.