Check engine help

[cazador]

Hello

I've been looking in the forums for a way to retrieve the error codes of a ford festiva. ('88 LX, 1.3 Carb)
I just took the 1 pin test connector and connected it to the chassis. Here's what I did:


Simple ground cable



When I was about to connect an analog voltimeter I saw that the check engine light started blinking when I put the key in "on" position.

I'm not sure how to read the results... it's supposed that slow blinks are for the first digit and fast ones for the second... I don't know If I have more than one code, can somebody check the video and help me?

Here's the video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6gnLVRUNJHo

I believe the codes are: (Not sure, don't know if the codes I found are for a Festiva)
9 ECT Sensor
18 Ignition TACH signal erratic - Ignition Systems
19 No Vehicle Power (pins 37 + 57) or bad PCM VPWR Diagnosis
20
21 Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor out of range - ECT
22 MAP (vacuum) or BARO signal out of range - MAP
28 Vane Air Temperature (VAT) sensor out of range - VAT
70 Data link to instrument cluster fault Service any other EEC codes, erase memory and retest If code is still present refer to instrument cluster diagnosis manual



Thanks!

[Maxtiva]

This is from the Haynes repair manual
Chapter 6 Emissions and engine control systems

09 Coolant temperature sensor. Check the coolant temperature sensor circuit for an open or short circuit or a sensor malfunction.
18 Air bleed valve control valve number 1. Check for loose wires, harness connectors that are damaged or defective ABCV.
19 Air bleed valve control valve number 2. Check for loose wires, harness connectors that are damaged or defective ABCV.
20 Air bleed valve control valve number 3. Check for loose wires, harness connectors that are damaged or defective ABCV.
21 Air bleed valve control valve number 4. Check for loose wires, harness connectors that are damaged or defective ABCV.
22 Fuel shutoff solenoid or circuit. Possible defective harness connector or fuel shutoff solenoid. Have the vehicule diagnosed at a dealer service departement or other qualified repair shop.
28 EGR vacuum solenoid. Check for an open circuit in the EGR vacuum solenoid wire number one harness.
70 Vacuum switch. Check for an open circuit in the vacuum switch.

[Maxtiva]

Where did you find the meaning or your code ?

[cazador]

Where did you find the meaning or your code ?

I googled "ford festiva trouble codes" and I found this:

http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/

I know they are not for the festiva but I Thought they would be the same...

The codes I found them counting blinks.....


thanks for the *real* meaning... seems like I have things to check.

I'm getting a bad gas milleage, can this be a cause for that?

Thanks again!

[Maxtiva]

Simple answer YES !!!

[cazador]

Thanks for your reply :thumbup: kinda sad anyway.... At least now I know where to start.

The last owner just removed the check engine light. I had to replace it. so I found it was on....

I'm just starting with the repairs on this car

:thumbleft:

[Maxtiva]

No problem.

[cazador]

Well I took the car to my mechanic today.... All this is like a hobby to me. Anyway I'm puzzled about all this. So please, can somebody explain this a little bit more to me:

"09 Coolant temperature sensor"
I located what appeared to be the sensor in the lower part of the radiator... the rubber (coating) of one of the wires was badly damaged, wrapped it on electrical tape. Not sure what else to do. could not remove the sensor.

"18 Air bleed valve control valve number 1-4"
Really puzzled with these... google didn't help... what are they and what do they do?


"22 Fuel shutoff solenoid or circuit."
Sometimes The engine won't stop for a couple of seconds after I shut off the car.
My guess is that this is the cause. Hope I can find the spare part.

"28 EGR vacuum solenoid. Check for an open circuit in the EGR vacuum solenoid wire number one harness."
First, what is EGR? Totally puzzled whit this one too! never found the harness either

"70 Vacuum switch."
Seems like there's much to learn about petrol engines! No idea here.

TIA

Alberto

[m715]

From what you have described in the codes, I would start with 3 things:
1: spark plugs/cap/rotor are in good shape.
2: Coolant temp switch on the back side of the engine under the intake manifold: Check the resistance between the two terminals to see if readings are between 0.062-104 K-Ohms. If not, replace it. This is common and causes all kinds of strange problems, including running VERY rich fuel mixture, along with fouling the EGO.
3:Check the EGO (or O2) sensor. Attach Voltmeter to the line into the sensor and ground, warm up the engine until it has the choke fully opened and catalytic converter hot,run engine at 4000 RPM until 0.55 volts is reached, then check the voltage. It should read 0.00 to 0.4 volts around idle to 0.5-1.0 volts at over 4000 RPM. If you are buning any oil, it may have fouled the sensor, and the carb runs rich burning more gas.
The tests come from the factory manual that is sitting on my lap as I write this.

Higher the mileage, the worse mine have been about these. The car in my Avatar is the worst about it.

HTH
Michael

[m715]

Oh, and to answer the other questions,
The ABCV assembly is the round tube looking piece with numbers/colors on the passinger side of the carburator. It has stepping vavles inside that meter the amount of fuel/air mixture going through the carb,which is controled by the signals coming from the sensors to rich/lean it out. This is where the EGO(O2)sensor, and the temperature sensor on the rear of the engine *really* cause the problems if they are sending the wrong values to the ECA(computer). The sensor on the radiator (called the temperature switch), comes into it too on the carb cars, but its main function is to cycle on and off the electric cooling fan next to it.
The fuel shut off solenoid is located right where the fuel inlet is on the carb, but I would guess your run on/dieseling after you shut it off is from a too high idle setting that was probably used to just keep it running at idle. After you get everything straightened out, you will probably be able to lower the idle down to the point this will stop. Just my guess.
The vacuum switch on the code 70 is the closest to the passenger fender of the three pieces on a strap mounted on the firewall shaped like a tiny coil turned sideways. Probably no problem ther either unless it is missing, or has the hose disconnected.

[cazador]

WOW

Great! Help Thanks!

I'll check it myself this weekend. The problem is that It seems like the little festiva is indeed burning oil. Well I'll check that too. The weird part is that the emissions of the car are ok, It passed inspection just fine. I believed that if the car burns oil it will produce a lot of smoke... well I'll double check the oil level.

Thanks again!

[freshtiva]

[cazador]

Thank you for the scans.

I worked on the festi last weekend, all this information has been pretty usefull!!!