Timing Belt replacement - crank sprocket bolt re + re ?

[Bathtub Tom]

its not necessary to remove it for a timing belt.
but if you ever have to, use the starter method. it is VERY easy. Just put the ratchet on, rest it against the floor, and bump the key. I did it on sunday on a toyota tercel. Another method is to leave it in gear and have someone step on the brakes while you use a cheater bar on it (this also works for torquing it down)

I had to remove the crankshaft pulley before I could remove the lower timing belt cover, which has to come off to remove the timing belt.
Is my '94 Pride different?

[scitzz]

I don't think so, I have to remove mine to get the timing belt off. You can slip it off the camshaft sprocket without removing the pulley, but if you wanna replace the belt, you gotta remove that pulley!

How did you end up getting it off?

[m715]

I believe the difference here is early(small diameter crankshaft 88,9,early90) versus large diameter. I have replaced early without removing the crank bolt in less than ideal circumstances in the middle of the winter, and did it without even loosening the tensioner. Slipped the new belt on under it making sure it didn't move the cam or crank. I did have to remove the slash shield to get at the pulley bolts though. Remove the bolts, and the pulley slides out over the crank bolt. Later large diam has the large flange built on the bolt that holds the pulley(which is different too). This saved my hands from frostbite, but I would have rather been doing something else that day.
Michael

[worfdog]

i have replaced the timing belt in my 1988 l three times and have never had to remove the crank bolt.

[skeeters_keeper]

I guess there is a difference in the years, on mine the alt pulley came off over top of the crank pulley bolt, the only reason to remove the crank pulley bolt is to get to the front seal/etc.

[scitzz]

Huh, I did not know that about the earlier models. Funny thing, with all the cars I have worked on through the years, mine is the only festiva I have ever worked on.....

[roycehof]

My 93 requires removal of the crankshaft pulley holder and bolt. My approach was to remove the wheel on the passenger side, remove the splash sheild, remove the three bolts holding the upper motor mount (You will need a floor jack under the oil pan), drop the engine enough to get an impact gun on the crankshaft bolt Have a buddy put the car in gear with the clutch out and his foot firmly on the brakes. Give it full pressure in the off direction and let it rip. Has never failed to work.
Hope this helps and good luck.

[snick2]

Hello roycehof.
I'm going to have to consider lowering the engine to get crank pulley off.
Will oil pan take the load with plywood between it + jack?
Thanks.

[scitzz]

I really wouldn't. A very easy alternative is a 2x4, wrap it with towels around the ends where they rest on the fenders, and use a ratcheting tie down to goe through the engine hoist hooks, let the engine weight rest on the 2x4, and it is so light, you can easily manuver it back into the mount. Done this a bunch, You can even lift the engine out this way, my son and wife lifted ours out the last time(my back was out), first time, I did it on my own, but I am a big boy

[roycehof]

Yep, Either way will work. I like the floor jack with a small piece of plywood (to keep the little floor jack tangs from put little dents in the pan). Everybody is different, but I know my way is easy and makes the job pretty simple. By the way, i always have little pieces of plywood about 6 inch square that I like to use when lifting items - It also good for going between the frame and the cement blocks that once in a while we get caught using for jack stands. The board prevents a sharp point from fracturing the block. The engine is not very heavy so you don't need to worry to much about cdamaging the oil pan, but a wood interface would be best!