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Idling About 4-5000 RPMS

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  • Idling About 4-5000 RPMS

    I finally started my festy today after been down for a long while....Only thing is now the Throttle is sticking...You start the car up & it runs up to 4000 RPMs...My cousin says I need to buy another Carboratuor....Any sugestions on where to buy? or how to fix?

  • #2
    You need to find out why it does not open all the way. Does the cable simply need adjustment at the carb attachment point? Is something preventing full travel of the pedal? Is the cable itself what is sticking? Can you open the throttle fully manually, with the cable detached? Take of the air filter unit and take a look at these issues. A new carb will be very expensive, if it is available at all. A rebuild of yours by a professional shop will be $200-400 depending on the cost of the kit, and the labour involved in that carb. Doing it yourself is possible, but oem carbs are finicky, have lots of tiny parts that can get mixed up, and many ways for the rebuild to go wrong if you are not experienced.
    Thricetiva replaced Icetiva as the new ride
    Icetiva-3-race-car-build
    http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2533299

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    • #3
      Grab the throttle cable where it attaches to the carburettor and see if it's stick, stiff, or if pulling on it makes any difference to the rpm's. You can put a finger on the linkage behind the end of the cable and pull forward to rev the engine.
      Also see if the plate inside the carburettor is free to open and close (air cleaner removed). And if the choke is working (if stuck the engine will rev on starting).
      Be carefull not to drop anything into the carburettor when the air cleaner is off.
      Original owner of silver grey carburetted 1989 Festiva. 105k km as of June 2006. 140k km as of June 2021.

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      • #4
        Originally posted by WmWatt View Post
        Grab the throttle cable where it attaches to the carburettor and see if it's stick, stiff, or if pulling on it makes any difference to the rpm's. You can put a finger on the linkage behind the end of the cable and pull forward to rev the engine.
        Also see if the plate inside the carburettor is free to open and close (air cleaner removed). And if the choke is working (if stuck the engine will rev on starting).
        Be carefull not to drop anything into the carburettor when the air cleaner is off.

        See I am thinking that is what is wrong with it.....the choke....the electrical wire from the choke was missing th plug on the end of it....So I cut the one off my original one & spliced them together. When should the wire from the choke have juice (current) on it?

        Thanks for your help guys

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        • #5
          This guy here at work just told me that it could also be the timing is what is causing it to run high RPMs....anyone know anything about that?

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          • #6
            Timing definately could be the problem. I don't know what you've done to the car, so it's hard to say. If you haven't messed with the distributor since it last ran, then that probably isn't the problem.

            I would check the things that you've been told about on here. Definately check the throttle cable. You know there is an idle screw on the carb, yes? I'd say carb clean the heck outta everything, lube all cables and throttle parts on the carb. Look and see if things are opening and closing correctly.

            With the help you can receive on here, I would exhaust all options before getting another carb.

            And i think I read that the choke juice should be on all the time, but I may be wrong.
            ENFORCER - Midwest Festiva Inc., Iowa

            #1 '90 Sport to modified Lx - RollazX
            #2 .....Cheesehead
            #3 '91 White - Donor Car
            #4 .....Montana Project
            SOLD----Levistiva for $1500
            Bought her back for $450
            Now that's darn near priceless!!

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Levitan View Post
              Timing definately could be the problem. I don't know what you've done to the car, so it's hard to say. If you haven't messed with the distributor since it last ran, then that probably isn't the problem.

              I would check the things that you've been told about on here. Definately check the throttle cable. You know there is an idle screw on the carb, yes? I'd say carb clean the heck outta everything, lube all cables and throttle parts on the carb. Look and see if things are opening and closing correctly.

              With the help you can receive on here, I would exhaust all options before getting another carb.

              And i think I read that the choke juice should be on all the time, but I may be wrong.


              I really wish I could get a certain on the carb juice being on all the time....because this electirc connector was cut off & I spliced it back together & tested it with a test light while the ignition switch was off & there was no juice at all....the connector runs to this round unit (if facing the car from the front) is on the right side of the carb right above all the throttle stuff

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              • #8
                The voltage should be on when the key is in the "run" position or whenever the engine is on.

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                • #9
                  the other end of the choke wire goes to the alternator. that is where it get it's power from. only 1988 and 1989 carbed festivas had a place to plug the choke wire into the alternator. the alternator on these models are different from the fuel injected ones. the fuel injected ones do not have a place to plug the choke wire into.
                  it seems i read here somewhere here that the alternator supplies around 7 1/2 volts to the choke.
                  when the wire is unpluged on my 88 model, it will idle at high rpms untill it is plugged back up.
                  1960 willys pickup
                  1967 jeep cj5

                  1988 festiva
                  1989 festiva
                  1990 festiva for parts
                  1991 s-10

                  "Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch. Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote!" —Benjamin Franklin, 1759

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by worfdog View Post
                    the other end of the choke wire goes to the alternator. that is where it get it's power from. only 1988 and 1989 carbed festivas had a place to plug the choke wire into the alternator. the alternator on these models are different from the fuel injected ones. the fuel injected ones do not have a place to plug the choke wire into.
                    it seems i read here somewhere here that the alternator supplies around 7 1/2 volts to the choke.
                    when the wire is unpluged on my 88 model, it will idle at high rpms untill it is plugged back up.



                    This red wire is the one that was unhooked & is it supposed to go to the alternator....if so is there another wire goes ontop of the red one that is hot when the keys on & the black boot cap go over both eyelets?
                    Last edited by Guest; 05-29-2008, 12:53 PM.

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                    • #11
                      on mine, their is only the one red wire.
                      1960 willys pickup
                      1967 jeep cj5

                      1988 festiva
                      1989 festiva
                      1990 festiva for parts
                      1991 s-10

                      "Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch. Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote!" —Benjamin Franklin, 1759

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by worfdog View Post
                        on mine, their is only the one red wire.

                        There is only one red wire on this one but is no juice coming from that red wire.......there is a black wire (maybe its juts covered with crud) but it looks black with a lil rubber boot on it that runs under the intake manifold that has juice on it when the switch is turned on.....then the one red wire in the pic looks like it was ran down towards the alternator...do the 2 wires connect to the same place on the alternator?

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                        • #13
                          The black one with the eyelet is attatched to the back of the alt right? That goes to the battery. Should have battery voltage when everything is off and charging voltages (14 or so volts) when running. And yes the red wire goes to the choke and should have about 7 volt.
                          ~Scott

                          1989 Festiva L EFI

                          2010 Toyota Prius

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by scottxd45 View Post
                            The black one with the eyelet is attatched to the back of the alt right? That goes to the battery. Should have battery voltage when everything is off and charging voltages (14 or so volts) when running. And yes the red wire goes to the choke and should have about 7 volt.

                            So the red one goes ontop of the black one

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                            • #15
                              no it has a connector on it and plugs into a seperate place in the back of the alt.


                              Se the stud coming out on the upper left? That's where the battery wire with the eyelet goes. Then below that do you see the single wire connection? That is where you plug in the red wire that goes to the choke.
                              Sorry if the picture is bad quality I used my phone. This Alt came off an '88 so it should be the same as yours.
                              Last edited by scottxd45; 05-28-2008, 09:07 AM. Reason: added picture
                              ~Scott

                              1989 Festiva L EFI

                              2010 Toyota Prius

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