Rear brake adjusters?

[bhazard]

Are there such things? Got new shoes and some decent junkyard drums on today and they're dragging a bit. They're getting pretty hot after a drive. I had to fight to get the drums on over the new shoes.

When I tightened the spindle nut, I tightened it down with a ratchet pretty tight, then backed it back off and then torqued it to 25ft-lbs. Is this incorrect? I could spin the wheel but it didnt keep spinning on its own for long. Maybe one turn at the most.

So is there any way to back the shoes off a little or do I just have to drive it for a while?


Also one other question. Should I be able to lock up the rears with the e-brake while moving? It seems pretty weak, and theres also a little slack in the rear cables. I tried adjusting the tension equalizer in the back but I think its already adjusted in as far as it can go. The adjuster on the handle just seems to put more tension on the handle. Doesnt effect the rear cables.

[FB71]

adjusters are frozen (rusted). They don't look like the star-wheels on domestics. They're a ratcheting cam type, and are connected to the park brake cable. You'll need to remove and disassemble them to free them up properly.

The spindle nut torque is 18-22 lb/ft, so 25 is close enough.

[bhazard]

I think I saw what you are talking about when I had it all apart. I lubed them up a bit and they seemed pretty free.

How do you adjust them all the way out?

[Gomez]

One thing I realized while servicing my e-brake is that MOST people don't use the e-brake at all. This is a bad thing for reasons other than expected.

Using the e-brake is what resets it to fit the normal wear and tear on the pads to the drums. Over time the pads wear from using the foot brake but don't get reset for use with the e-brake since it uses a different mechanism. The foot brake uses hydraulics and the e-brake uses a simple lever. THIS IS WHERE YOUR PROBLEM IS like FB71 said.

The linkage going from your cable to the pads is frozen solid with rust. It is actually 2 peices connected together with a rivet. When they don't get used everyday they rust together. Take it out, clean it, break it free (this may take some time and a couple blisters), wd-40 it, re-install it, pump the e-brake lever several times and you will see the light. I DID!!!!

Now your drum will come off easily, the hand brake will feel much much better, and you will have a safe operating e-brake.

[FB71]

I think I saw what you are talking about when I had it all apart. I lubed them up a bit and they seemed pretty free.

How do you adjust them all the way out?

the cam is spring loaded. You need to wedge apart the adjuster and set it all the way in.

[bhazard]

I think I know what you guys are talking about, but Im still a bit confused. I guess Ill go out with the camera and take it back apart and see if you guys can point out exactly what I need to take the 5 lb sledge to.

[bhazard]

Well I got it apart and got the adjuster out, yeah its frozen, but another thing is the teeth on the gear seem to be stripped? I dunno if it is supposed to "ratchet" off the car or not but it dont. I guess all I can do is free it up and hope for the best. I dont see it listed on any parts store sites.

[Pu241]

If the teeth are gone you need to source a new one(s) as they will not self adjust!

BTW, how do you only get 38 MPG in a 5spd manual?
Lots of city driving?

[bhazard]

That was my first tank. I did a lot of screwing around with the car on that, as in, driving around the back yard at 25 mph.... tuning, playing, etc. This coming tank probably wont be much better, but the next one, my tuneup and stuff should take effect.

Oh yeah, and I got the brakes back together. No more dragging. Im not gonna say that adjuster is totally screwed but its well worn. The e-brake is still pretty weak. I mean it should hold the car still but its not like most cars I see where it will lock up the brakes if you pull it going down the road.... is this how it should be?