HELP! Front hub and Rotor.

[BigElCat]

I'm putting new rotors and pads on Festus. I have a Haynes ordered but it's not here yet. This is a stock 1988 Festiva.

I have the caliper off and apart. I have the axle nut off. I used a 30mm socket even though the nut is actually a 29mm.

The axle shaft slips in and out the splines about 3/8". The hub/rotor still spins on the bearings, but the hub will NOT seperate from the spindle. What do I need to do?

Thanks.

[Hot_Wheels]

there pressed together, pull the hub assembly off and take them some where with a press, ive also heard a really big hammer works (but if you want to save the rotor...i wouldnt recomend maybe use a rubber mellet) i would recomend just taking it to pep boys and let them unpress and repress a new rotor and bearings on, does that answer your question?

[bhazard]

I used a slide hammer. Helps to have another person hammering on the opposite side as well.

[BigElCat]

I got the passenger side done. Used a slide hammer/hub puller.

Hot Wheels...the rotor doesn't press on, it bolts to the back of the hub. You're right about the bearings being a press fit. I just greased them as best I could with them in place.

Now I'm stuck on the drivers side. One of the pad pins won't come out. I had a difficult time with the other 3 pins, but this one won't move. I used a center punch in an air chisel to get one of the other 3. This last one is 'behind' the hose. I'm trying to not crack the hydraulics open. I have it soaking with PB Blaster.

Does anyone know where I can replacement nuts (hub/half shaft), the kind we stake on the Festiva?

[Hot_Wheels]

im working on trying to tear my aspire hubs apart i kinow on the aspire the rotor is screwed on with 2 screw to the hub, but on the festi i thought the rotors where pressed onto the hub? i dont rember there being any screws but maybe mine where drilled, on the aspire ones that i have been working on i had to drill the screws because they where stipped now alls im left with is the hub which seam to be pressed onto the knuckle and i dont want to be to forceful with them so i figured they must be pressed on, i would like to get them apart so i can paint the knuckle..but i dont know what i can do i dont have a press. i got a 3 jaw puller..

[BigElCat]

^^^This stuff's pretty frustrating. I'm making progress on my rotor/pad job.

Not to sound like a 'know it all' type, but this may be helpful for you. The 'hub' is part that rotates, it has the 4 lugs or lug bolt holes. The 'spindle' is the part that has the 'knuckle' pressed in it. The strut attaches to the spindle as well.

To get your knuckle off, dose it with PB Blaster (on sale at NAPA right now). Then hit it with a knuckle fork tool. You can get a knuckle fork at most auto parts stores for less than $20.00. Get the right size, small in our case. The tool is a two prong thing with ramped prongs. It looks sorta like a music instrument tuning fork. This tool is the only thing I've ever found that works!

Best to you.

[Hot_Wheels]

i know what your saying about the pickle fork to seperate the ball joints and control arms, im confusing you with my teminology, where i am at now is seperating the hub and spindle, darn front wheel drive cars ill take a mustang any day to work on i did the whole suspension in a weekend

[edudu77]

BigElCat, I had to get my nut(stake type) from a local privately owned store, napa, nor advance said they could get them. The place I went to was a franchised all pro, but a carquest should also have them if you have one of those around. They kept them in the big orange sliding drawers...ahhh, I love the smell of an old, dimly lit auto parts store in the morning. Hope this helps.

[Mike McKown]

I just ordered two nuts from NAPA. I haven't picked them up yet. They weren't in a local warehouse. Had to be shipped in.

[BigElCat]

Thanks for the help. I'll see if my local NAPA can order the nuts.

I got the Rotor/Pad job done. Festus rolls smoother, quieter, and stops much better. I'll need to degrease the back side of the rotors again after I run it for a ways.

[WmWatt]

Did you get the other pin out? I'm currently taking apart a couple of rusted junk yard front wheels. I had to drive the caliper pins part way out with a nail set and then clamp vice grips onto the head and tap on that to get them the rest of the way out. I removed the banjo bolts holding the brake hoses on but had to be careful not to damage the bleeder nipples.

[festivaWES]

I'm going to tell you the easiest way to seperate your rotors from the spindles. Take axels out of the spindle assembly...actually you could leave them in. Start your car take put it in reverse turn wheels lock to lock and back up alittle at a time.

[BigElCat]

^^^You must be joking. That could seriously damage the wheel bearings and the contact areas. Plus the tires could jam up in the wheel wells with all the car weight on them.

[BigElCat]

Did you get the other pin out?

It took over 2 hours. I had to Dremel grind the nose of the pin once it became peened over the hole in the caliper. When it came time to reassemble, I used caliper grease on the pin where it inserts into the hole. I hope it doesn't rust again. I'll be taking the caliper apart every once in awhile just for maintenance.

The 2 piece caliper design is really cool. I'd never seen this before.

[festivaWES]

^^^You must be joking. That could seriously damage the wheel bearings and the contact areas. Plus the tires could jam up in the wheel wells with all the car weight on them.

I was just kidding it's what happened to me when i picked up my third car in Witchita...owner have the whole drivetrain out and i forgot the rotor/wheel bearing was a two piece assembly.