Engine Seals

[wayconvict]

Will soon be replacing my clutch, gonna buy a whole new clutch assembly (as it's about just a cheap to buy the whole assembly here in Newfoundland) and seeming I have to take the engine out to do it, I might as well do it all at once.

Anyway, as I will be taking my motor out to do this, I'm thinking about turning this into a weekend job and replacing both cam and timing (front) seals as I know one is leaking and I'm probably going to replace the rear main seal as I think that's what my be causing my clutch to go.

I'm thinking about replacing the head gasket too.... I don't believe it needs to be done but if I got time, I figure I might do it for fun.....

Is there anything that I could do to my engine or watch for while I have it out, because it would be the most opportune time to do it.....

Also, does anyone have a full list of gaskets and seals that go on the engine, e.g. Valve cover, rear main bearing seal, thermostat housing seal, intakes, etc.....

Maybe someone could list them here....


BTW..... I only have a stock 1.3L Festy

[studdyhalllooser]

if it aint broke dont fix it....only replace what you have to. unless you absoluely know what your doing i wouldnt recomend replacing a bunch of stuff. only replace what needs replacing. i replaced a valve cover gasket on a toyota only to find out they sold me a defective gasket.

[mattswabb]

Leave the head gasket alone. Replace the rear main crank seal. If your pulling the engine to replace the clutch then go ahead and do the front crank seal, timing belt, and water pump. If you pull the tranny then replace both axle output seals. Make sure you order all the seals ahead of time. The parts store didn't have all mine last time.

matt

[wayconvict]

No, I will be definitely be pulling the engine..... I had a side axle replaced last winter. I went to a garage, as they had free installation. They will sell it to you at near cost, or sell it retail and install it for free (some limitations apply).

To make a long story short, they couldn't get the axle out of the tranny. They said something about if they pull on it too hard, it could do a lot of damage as there are c-clips or something that could be causing it to be stuck and they could pull out half the trany trying. I sounded a little far fetched (the c-clip part), but apparently they're the side-axle experts in town, and I don't want to run around to find a new tranny.

Does anyone know if this is true? As I think that the seal is going on that side and I have no way of replacing it.

Caution noted on the engine, will replace what I need to replace....

[gomer]

My half shafts were difficult to remove ,, took a BIG pry bar ... the little wire circlips can really hold sometimes... expect to lose some tranny fluid ,, there is no dedicated fill hole ,,, you refill through the speedo cable opening.

I'm seconding the previous recommendation to leave the head gasket alone ... you'll need a "head set" not just the head gasket itself and that will be $100.00 or more at your auto parts store (although I've seem it on eBay for $59),,, my main concern is that in changing that other things may get damaged that otherwise may last years if undisturbed and also that your mechanic will probably skip installing new head bolts and I believe this is a "stretch to torque" engine where the bolts should not be reused. This isn't an E-Jag .... it's a 3rd world econobox ...

[studdyhalllooser]

i had to replace the driver side axle...put my feet on the fender and pulled with all i had...finaly came out. didnt change the seal and put the new one in....that was 4000 or so miles ago and im still not leaking any fluids nor has anything been damaged.